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Old 04-15-2010, 02:15 AM   #16
InfiniteDice
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Just found this as well... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=129982

Go here for part numbers: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

"it is a ventilation tube, crankcase ventilation is necessary to prevent blowby gases from building up in the crankcase, oil vapor also escapes through this tube, this tube and the one coming from the valve cover are the bmw pcv system. "
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:22 AM   #17
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Forget the tube dude. You said how its a pressurized system, then completely back tracked. The tube connects the CRANKCASE to the head. It is not directly connected to the PCV tube. Oil drains down the tube, yes, but its primary purpose is to allow a vacuum to be pulled on the crankcase. The hose to the TB and valve cover allow oil vapors to be burned, and allows a vacuum to be pulled on the crank case to better seat the rings. Enough about this..

OP: the hardened line you found goes to the oil level sensor. Coolant is likely leaking at the TB. This happened on my car: the lines that run into the TB go into a fitting that uses a cork gasket to affix to the TB, which breaks down over time. Coolant leaks very slightly, and runs into the wiring harness going to the oil level sensor and the injector harness directly below the TB at the block, in front of the tube.

For your original problem.. have you considered the coil? Clean out the oil, but I doubt that would cause it to fail under load and still idle fine.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:17 AM   #18
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Actually I never backtracked, it ventilates into itself, not atmosphere, the whole system is designed to run closed/sealed/pressurized. I'm wondering if you read the entire thread above.

I don't really care because I know 100% for a fact that any pressure leak in the return tube, also called the oil separator, will cause oil to be drawn back into the intake and foul up the plugs, the combustion chamber and also work into the TB.

OP pull your plugs, if they are nice and tan, you likely don't have my issue, if they are black you'll know.

Everlast loosen your return tube drive it for a few hours and see what happens to your plugs.
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:12 AM   #19
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Everlast I'm not trying to say your advice isn't good, I'm just doing my best to help solve the problem.

Let's say that the oil return tube (goes into the intake which acts like an elbow joint to the upper side of the head) has an air leak and is pulling in air under the proper throttle condition. Where do you think that air is going, and what is being blown back up the tube into the top of the valve cover?

This then gets sucked back into the intake as an unmetered leak, along the black rubber hose which leads to the throttle body, and the oil gets sucked through with it and gets all over everything.

The throttle is under pressure to suck air in, it also sucks air from that line, any oil will also go along for the ride. This is why the top of the valve cover has a metal baffle, to separate vapor from oil.
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:47 AM   #20
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteDice View Post
Actually I never backtracked, it ventilates into itself, not atmosphere, the whole system is designed to run closed/sealed/pressurized. I'm wondering if you read the entire thread above.

I don't really care because I know 100% for a fact that any pressure leak in the return tube, also called the oil separator, will cause oil to be drawn back into the intake and foul up the plugs, the combustion chamber and also work into the TB.

OP pull your plugs, if they are nice and tan, you likely don't have my issue, if they are black you'll know.

Everlast loosen your return tube drive it for a few hours and see what happens to your plugs.
I might as well change it for $20 wont lose anything.

Do you know where to buy the O-rings and the spring from ?
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:31 PM   #22
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I'm not gonna lie it's not fun pulling that tube out, check around online for examples of how people do this, everytime I've done it i've also had the intake manifold off... but then you're looking at intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gaskets, plus a few other things.

I think there is a way to compress the spring with zip ties and change the o-rings one at a time top then bottom, there may also be a sneaky way of pulling the tube out with the intake manifold still attached. Research this online.

Parts:
http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts...20Sedan~240365

The spring if you need to replace that, is probably dealer only.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:18 AM   #23
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i have checked my breather hose coming out of the headcover and its almost clogged with oil.. pretty sure thats were the oil is majorly coming from..

is there anyway to stop that? I always see civics with a filter over the breather which is ilegal but does it solve the issue..
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:49 AM   #24
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The reason why it it is sucking oil through there is because there is most likely a leak at the return tube, this is all a related issue. The oil in the upper part of the head is supposed to partially return down the hard tube, and the gasses are supposed to go along the top rubber hose to the throttle body for burning, no oil should be going in that top hose.

Take your oil fill cap off, the engine will stumble and start to die, that is because you are introducing air into the throttle body through the top rubber hose. I suppose if you blocked the TB opening, and put a breather on the valve cover side, it could run without problems, I don't think I'd do that, as who knows what other issues may be created in the long run.

I'd seriously say take a weekend spend $40 - $50 get all the intake manifold gaskets, thermostat housing gasket, throttle body gasket, and those o-rings for the tube. I'd consider getting a new hose (valve cover to TB) they are about $12 - $18.

Spend a few days on the weekend or when you don't need the car, pull off the intake and everything attached and clean it all and put it all back on. It's gonna be scary the first time you do this, but I think this is probably long overdue.

If you know someone local who knows these cars, perhaps another board member will help if you toss some beers and hamburgers at them. Just make sure they know the engine. I'd expect 4 -5 hours.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteDice View Post
The reason why it it is sucking oil through there is because there is most likely a leak at the return tube, this is all a related issue. The oil in the upper part of the head is supposed to partially return down the hard tube, and the gasses are supposed to go along the top rubber hose to the throttle body for burning, no oil should be going in that top hose.

Take your oil fill cap off, the engine will stumble and start to die, that is because you are introducing air into the throttle body through the top rubber hose. I suppose if you blocked the TB opening, and put a breather on the valve cover side, it could run without problems, I don't think I'd do that, as who knows what other issues may be created in the long run.

I'd seriously say take a weekend spend $40 - $50 get all the intake manifold gaskets, thermostat housing gasket, throttle body gasket, and those o-rings for the tube. I'd consider getting a new hose (valve cover to TB) they are about $12 - $18.

Spend a few days on the weekend or when you don't need the car, pull off the intake and everything attached and clean it all and put it all back on. It's gonna be scary the first time you do this, but I think this is probably long overdue.

If you know someone local who knows these cars, perhaps another board member will help if you toss some beers and hamburgers at them. Just make sure they know the engine. I'd expect 4 -5 hours.
everything is disassembled already just waiting on my new injectors to come in and everything will be back together.

Much thanks for your help and Everlasts
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:57 PM   #26
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Sounds like you're well on your way to victory!
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Old 04-16-2010, 07:25 PM   #27
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I had the tube leaking on me, the oring wasn't sitting right. I took it apart and back together in 3 days with going to high school. I also painted my valve cover and manifold and did a valve adjustment.

i got my parts from autopartsway, spend over 75 bucks i think and free shipping. +1 for them super fast shipping.

make sure you have different size socket extentions and a wobble joint make your life alot easier to get the manifold off.

let me know if you have any other problems.

btw the zip tie spring thing works wonders, i dunno how i would get it on with out that.
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:39 PM   #28
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just an update and a problem that had occured after finishing the job..

whats done soo far is a new breather hose, replaced O-rings and spring on the return tube, all gaskets replaced, valve adjustment with rebuilt injectors, everything cleaned and in mint condition, throttle body cleaned to perfection top and inside,with throttle cable well lubricated.

Problem Iam having is High RPM from the start, hangs around 2000k, the throttle cable is loose so its not from the cable tension. I had unplugged the AFM and the rpm dropped to normal.. What could be done and what are my options?
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Old 05-08-2010, 10:52 PM   #29
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Thanks for the link on the OEM part numbers Huge help since I was able to find out my hose # that I needed =\

About your high idle. Maybe you need a new AFM? Have you tried a replacement AFM?
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Old 05-08-2010, 11:15 PM   #30
Aloush
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Thanks for the link on the OEM part numbers Huge help since I was able to find out my hose # that I needed =\

About your high idle. Maybe you need a new AFM? Have you tried a replacement AFM?
noo I have yet to exchange it with anything else.. I will try cleaning it from the inside first thing tomorrow. If that doesnt work then Iam not sure what will..
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