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02-07-2010, 10:03 AM
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#1
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1st Gear Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MARKHAM
Posts: 11
Car: 2001 BMW 740 IL
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Corrosion on the Bottom of the E38 Doors
I have corrosion on the bottom of my doors and looking for a good body shop that know how to do a clean job without havig to look at the work and having doubts wondering if they used the right type of paint, primer, rust protection etc.
Can anyone tell me what needs to get done to make sure a proper job is done and knowing what to look for in a body shop for the skills and knowledge needed to get the job done right the first time. 2001 BMW 740 IL
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02-07-2010, 11:41 AM
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#2
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Founder of GTA7's
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brampton
Posts: 996
Car: E38 740iL
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This is a common problem with the E38's.
The drainage system brings water to the drain at the bottom of the doors, but the water does not exit properly, it sits there. Which causes the corrosion or rust.
Any good body shop can remove it for you, but there is no one that can guarantee it won't come back. The only guarantee is to swap the entire door with new ones that are not corroded.
They say it is like cancer, it could come back. I had all 4 of my doors fixed last summer when I did a full repaint, and since have not brought her out for the winter at all, in the hopes to keep her away from the salt as long as possible.
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02-07-2010, 01:04 PM
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#3
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 319
Car: E38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 740-iLL
This is a common problem with the E38's.
The drainage system brings water to the drain at the bottom of the doors, but the water does not exit properly, it sits there. Which causes the corrosion or rust.
Any good body shop can remove it for you, but there is no one that can guarantee it won't come back. The only guarantee is to swap the entire door with new ones that are not corroded.
They say it is like cancer, it could come back. I had all 4 of my doors fixed last summer when I did a full repaint, and since have not brought her out for the winter at all, in the hopes to keep her away from the salt as long as possible.
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that worries me....is there any way to check it if there is rust there. My doors look fine. I dont see any bubbles etc on the doors or the side skirts. I wash it everytime i take it out in winter...but still u never know.
__________________
Die Dämmerung..............when dusk began to fall, when dawn begins to break
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02-07-2010, 06:04 PM
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#4
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1st Gear Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MARKHAM
Posts: 11
Car: 2001 BMW 740 IL
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Do you have any recommendations regarding any particular body shops Mr. 740-iLL? What did you look for when you had it repainted and that the rust protection primer ...etc was done?
Last edited by faiz; 02-07-2010 at 06:08 PM.
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02-09-2010, 10:23 AM
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#5
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Founder of GTA7's
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brampton
Posts: 996
Car: E38 740iL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faiz
Do you have any recommendations regarding any particular body shops Mr. 740-iLL? What did you look for when you had it repainted and that the rust protection primer ...etc was done?
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European Autobody does an excellent job. May cost a little more $ than the competition, but you get a quality job from them.
@Dammerung, open your door and look at the seam of the outside metal and the inside metal along the bottom of your door. If you do not see and brown/rusty colour, you should be fine. For now.
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02-09-2010, 10:59 AM
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#6
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1st Gear Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MARKHAM
Posts: 11
Car: 2001 BMW 740 IL
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I looked them up and gave a call. They gave me a rough quote for just painting the panels without the rust fix and its pricey. I'll swing by to get a quote but need to digest it first. The website shows alot of high end cars so I'll see what they say.
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02-09-2010, 02:49 PM
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#7
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 319
Car: E38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 740-iLL
European Autobody does an excellent job. May cost a little more $ than the competition, but you get a quality job from them.
@Dammerung, open your door and look at the seam of the outside metal and the inside metal along the bottom of your door. If you do not see and brown/rusty colour, you should be fine. For now.
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Im good then. Just to double check..its basically the lower sead of the door it self and not the part right above the skirt. Well i dont see anything on the doors or the part next to the bmw individual plates under the door on the frame
__________________
Die Dämmerung..............when dusk began to fall, when dawn begins to break
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02-09-2010, 03:08 PM
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#8
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Founder of GTA7's
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brampton
Posts: 996
Car: E38 740iL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dammerung
Im good then. Just to double check..its basically the lower sead of the door it self and not the part right above the skirt. Well i dont see anything on the doors or the part next to the bmw individual plates under the door on the frame 
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The piece that is right above the side skirt, at the bottom of the door, is the drain where the water sits. So yes, that is the location where the rust, if any, would start.
Do you have your build sheet for your Individual? I would love to see what goodies you got.
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02-09-2010, 03:11 PM
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#9
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 319
Car: E38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 740-iLL
The piece that is right above the side skirt, at the bottom of the door, is the drain where the water sits. So yes, that is the location where the rust, if any, would start.
Do you have your build sheet for your Individual? I would love to see what goodies you got.
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Nope i dont have the build sheet...come to think of it im not sure if its says individual there at all lol...
__________________
Die Dämmerung..............when dusk began to fall, when dawn begins to break
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02-09-2010, 03:56 PM
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#10
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Drivin' new whips weekly
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lea$ide
Posts: 658
Car: 740Sport, GT-R & E30
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Talk to Rich at Atlantic Autobody in Etobicoke his prices have always been amazing and the work is even better.
Yeah, if you have a 740 and drive it in winter, likely you have it lurking in there somewhere because it is a design flaw. Of course most of them did not puncture through during the 6yr corrosion warranty, shoulda been 10 yrs if you ask me. But all part of the Quandt master plan to make billions :-p
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02-09-2010, 04:13 PM
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#11
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 319
Car: E38
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Wash your cars!!!! :p
__________________
Die Dämmerung..............when dusk began to fall, when dawn begins to break
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02-09-2010, 05:12 PM
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#12
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Founder of GTA7's
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brampton
Posts: 996
Car: E38 740iL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dammerung
Nope i dont have the build sheet...come to think of it im not sure if its says individual there at all lol...
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if you post your VIN or the last 7 digits in this forum:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=974206
the OP can email you a complete order sheet for YOUR E38
+1 on washing your cars
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02-09-2010, 05:14 PM
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#13
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Drivin' new whips weekly
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lea$ide
Posts: 658
Car: 740Sport, GT-R & E30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dammerung
Wash your cars!!!! :p
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Did you even read the explanation of how the design flaw works? The improper drainage of water is the problem - so in essence washing your car is part of the problem. If anything giving it a bath, or salt bath when it is dirty is the worst.
To drain it, you gotta open the rear doors after you wash it or after heavy rain and watch it pour out.
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02-09-2010, 05:56 PM
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#14
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Parts hoarding partner...
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,012
Car: 325IS 87-325IC 89-IC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faiz
I have corrosion on the bottom of my doors and looking for a good body shop that know how to do a clean job without havig to look at the work and having doubts wondering if they used the right type of paint, primer, rust protection etc.
Can anyone tell me what needs to get done to make sure a proper job is done and knowing what to look for in a body shop for the skills and knowledge needed to get the job done right the first time. 2001 BMW 740 IL
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it can be fixed and it won't come back.....for a while that is. (Grin); two things must be done. one; sand blast or something equivalent besides grinding. Then epoxy the area. I had a body shop do the bottom edge of a door I have - last summer- which had surface rust. I'll see how it looks after this winter. but like mentioned, the surest way is changing the doors.
Once rust starts it can be slowed down alot, but it never sleeps.
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02-09-2010, 08:08 PM
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#15
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 319
Car: E38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by careless7
Did you even read the explanation of how the design flaw works? The improper drainage of water is the problem - so in essence washing your car is part of the problem. If anything giving it a bath, or salt bath when it is dirty is the worst.
To drain it, you gotta open the rear doors after you wash it or after heavy rain and watch it pour out.
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It can be washed properly....all u need is a high pressure hose...i am aware of the problem...wash the car with a high pressure hose along the gap between the side skirts and doors...the high pressure creates a channel of water that takes all the salt out...its not water tht creates the corrosion..its the combination of salt and water....by the way i wasnt referring to your comment otherwise i would have quoted it....i meant it is a good idea to wash the car especially more often when driving in winter....there are other areas such as a pillers and fuel and brake lines that tend to get corroded in these cars aswell...
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Die Dämmerung..............when dusk began to fall, when dawn begins to break
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