Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > maXimum Tech > Wheels&Tires
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 03-13-2010, 03:39 PM   #16
Silver Snail
First Lady
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 120
Here's some information I found helpful when rebuilding my first RS:

Tools:
it seems some people have trouble finding an 8mm 12 point socket. Have you tried Sears? that is where I got mine. they have an entire wall display filled with individual sockets of all sorts of sizes, points, and so on. I checked home depot and was able to find them there as well. you could also call up your local snap-on guy and have them deliver one right to your house.
there was mention of a fiberglass lined socket wrench that was supposed to be safe on the bolts finish, but they are not made anymore. but if if you take your time and keep your ratchet straight you should not damage your finish.

torque specs

BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
BBS RS bolt torque is 144in/lbs /12ft/lbs.

Bolt Pattern & Bolts:
Both the BBS RSs and the RMs have 30 bolts per wheel, and they are the same bolt pattern. 17s should have 35 bolt holes. Torque bolts in a crossing star pattern, just like you would do with lug bolts.

BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
BBS RS bolt torque is 12 lb/ft
NOTE: Some individuals have suggested that 18 lb/ft is a more reasonable torque setting when re-using old bolts on BBS 3-piece wheels. Use these numbers at YOUR OWN RISK.


Disassembly and Assembly information:
Taking apart your wheels is a piece of cake. It only requires common sense and a little patience. Kodiak suggests to it's racing customers that they take apart and inspect there wheels every year. [This is probably not needed on a street tire.] We have yet to have anyone that hasn't been able to do it on their own. It is important to make sure that the parts are clean when they are reassembled.

Use a 12pt 8mm socket on the bolts and heat the lips up with a heat gun for 5-10 minutes before going at them with a rubber mallet. It should take no longer than 2 hours to have them all apart.

Use a decent 3/8 drive torque wrench and use a crossover method for tighening. After you torque the wheels put a bead of silicone adheasive over the seal on smooth it out. If you are really worried about leaking just put a very thin coat on one day and follow it up with a second coat 24 hours later.


Sealing Wheel Shells:
1. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.
2. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec.
3. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.
4. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.

If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldnt worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing to want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didnt use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).

One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 10* (can't remember the last number) also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars, no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things. Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.
__________________
Oh no it's a VW owner!
-

TMTuned | Unitronic | AAC | SEM
Silver Snail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2010, 04:03 PM   #17
Silver Snail
First Lady
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 120
Now for the fun part: Will it fit? Offsets, backspacing and clearance! So you know what each of them means...



First I need to note that BBS wheels come with "reverse lips", making it easy to think that you have a 1" lip when in all reality you have a .5" lip.

Here is the correct way to measure your lip/shell



Minus .5" for the "bead" which is NOT used in width/offset calculations, however it can become important when determining inner clearance, remember the "bead" sticks out .5" on both the barrel and the lip/shell which can make clearance an issue on your strut/coil over assembly.


Barrels measure the same way here it's 7.5" but minus .5" from the bead = 7"



Don't forget the face is .5" thick as well.

Here's a "not to scale" example of what I mean..



And here is the correct way to recalculate offsets, backspacing etc. This is essential when building modular wheels as changing lips changes the "et" and swapping faces changed the backspacing and offset.

Here is when just adding a new lip:

1″(inch) = cca 25mm (milimeter)

original wheel : BBS RS 001 ET 25 with 1″ lip

new lip : 2″

width increased by : 2″ – 1″ = 1″

new wheel offset : 25mm(original offset) – (25mm(inceased width 1″) / 2) = 13 ==> ET 13



Basically for every 1" more of lip you add, you minus half an inch or 12.5mm from your OE ET.

Now for recalculating ET which is handy when moving faces around, swapping barrels etc.

This can be helpful but I prefer my own math:


http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Calculating the Offset of a Wheel

First, measure the overall width of the wheel (remember, just because a wheel is 18x7.5, does not mean that the OVERALL width is 7.5”. It means that the measurement from outboard flange to the inboard flange is 7.5” or "bead to bead").

Overall width/2 = Centerline

After determining the centerline, measure from the mounting pad to the edge of the inboard flange (if the wheel were laying flat on the ground – face up – your measurement would be from the ground to the mounting pad). This is your back spacing.

Centerline – Back Spacing = Offset in Inches

Inches x 25.4 = Offset in mm

These can be applied to measuring the offset of any wheel however, not just modular wheels.
__________________
Oh no it's a VW owner!
-

TMTuned | Unitronic | AAC | SEM

Last edited by Silver Snail; 03-13-2010 at 04:07 PM.
Silver Snail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #18
retro
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: brampton
Posts: 173
Quote:
Originally Posted by E30 Kid View Post
can you marry me. i want those wheels and cars

no she cant....shes mine already....=)

Last edited by retro; 03-13-2010 at 04:34 PM.
retro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2010, 06:23 PM   #19
Silver Snail
First Lady
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by retro View Post
no she cant....shes mine already....=)
Truth! I only belong to one man. <3

Anyways on to the build at hand.

This is how RB re-did the wheels for me (I'm a wheel whore not a machinist :p).

They bored out the existing bolt pattern 5X114.3 and punched in new inserts to 5X120. the center bore also started out at 66mm they bored it out to 72.5mm for me. It fits like a glove on retro's Z.



The only downside is now I don't think it will be possible to mill the backs like my other RS as the inserts are quite close to the mounting pad... Note how close the black inserts are to the back...

BMW RS'



GTI RS' after being milled 5mm



As you can see milling them meant loosing the little lip for centering rings, but we ground the lip on the centering rings off, the BMW fit ones wouldn't have had that problem as they are direct bolt on... But I don't think I can mill them... :|

We took a metal wheel to the barrels, when re-assembling them they should look like this, you don't want any silicone or paint to be on the mounting surfaces. Only powder coated centers/barrels can get away with it.



retro used a pry bar to separate the faces from the barrels and the faces from the lips. This is the second time I've seen two faces stick to the barrels and two to the lips, obviously the ones on the barrels are easier to remove, for the faces stuck to the lips we flipped them over onto a towel and I stood on the lip while he used a pry bar to get the face off. I'm not reusing these lips but if you are they won't be harmed if you're careful.



And that's it for now, will most likely have the faces sand blasted and the hex caps polished.
__________________
Oh no it's a VW owner!
-

TMTuned | Unitronic | AAC | SEM
Silver Snail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 12:54 AM   #20
Nikku
2nd Gear Member
 
Nikku's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 74
Very enjoyable rebuild! Definitely some passion present

I can't wait for the next steps.
Nikku is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 12:08 PM   #21
BMW BMXer
Wants a 350 Blazer.
 
BMW BMXer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 7,761
Send a message via ICQ to BMW BMXer Send a message via AIM to BMW BMXer Send a message via MSN to BMW BMXer Send a message via Yahoo to BMW BMXer
*late pass*

I like what's going on here.
__________________

Stanceiseverything.com
BMW BMXer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #22
SamE30e
6th Gear Member
 
SamE30e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Milton
Posts: 2,869
I like that you milled the rears of the rear wheels on the vdub. Little bit too much poke and stretch, the front was perfect.
__________________
91 318is - M50NV (gone)
02 WRB Subaru WRX EJ207 forged, 320 AWHP stock turbo.
85 - 325
02 325i Sedan
SamE30e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 04:17 PM   #23
retro
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: brampton
Posts: 173
she milled the wheels that are on the front, not the rear
retro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 05:33 PM   #24
propr'one
op sucks cock
 
propr'one's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: T.
Posts: 17,674
Send a message via MSN to propr'one
my name is propr'one and i approve this thread.
__________________
d1s bulb canada[/size]
Hot: 2001 Estoril M Roadster ZCP 19's, ZHP knob, JL 8W3
Hot: 2013 Black Ninja 300 ABS Leo Vince Carbon pipe
Cold: 2002 TiAg M3 6mt ZCP 19's supersports, deoranged, dechromed, led tails, ZHP knob, UUC SS v3, GROM, OEM 18's w310's,
hid headlights hid kit
propr'one is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 05:39 PM   #25
5style
Hatters gon Hatt
 
5style's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Toronot
Posts: 5,099
Sickness, thread needs sticky!
__________________
Cayenne hunting!
5style is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 06:30 PM   #26
e30_kid89
The Afro-stig
 
e30_kid89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: TDot West End
Posts: 4,589
Send a message via MSN to e30_kid89
You know you're a VDub owner when you can make a "Wheel build" thread

srsly though this thread is badass, It's about time we seen a E46 step up with epic rims/stance.
__________________
e30_kid89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2010, 08:13 AM   #27
Silver Snail
First Lady
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 120
Damn, might be doing this again for the E30.

BBS RS 16X7 et 50 4X114.3 redrill to 4X100...



Between these and 17" Hartge wheels... These are 700 tho.. Hartge is 1500 and 5X120 lol...
__________________
Oh no it's a VW owner!
-

TMTuned | Unitronic | AAC | SEM
Silver Snail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2010, 10:18 AM   #28
Mystikal
Moderator/Event-Coordinator
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Stance
Posts: 12,739
Not a good offset for the E30. If you redrill them, you'd still need spacers to clear the struts. You could pull them off with 20mm adapters and bigger lips; this would just clear the inside nicely, so it leaves lots of lip room towards the fender.
__________________
Mystikal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2010, 11:24 AM   #29
Silver Snail
First Lady
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 120
I didn't even consider that.

So starting out with an offset of 30 is the only option in the front? I need to test fit something on it first just to make sure I can figure out exactly how many mm I can play with...

E30's have put RM's on and they generally start out with an et of 35. Does the difference between a 15" and 16" change things too?

I guess I'll just borrow these for one hot second.. :p and see what I can get away with..

__________________
Oh no it's a VW owner!
-

TMTuned | Unitronic | AAC | SEM
Silver Snail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2010, 11:26 AM   #30
retro
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: brampton
Posts: 173
its my other car might as well add another pic



time to try these bad boys on the e30 =)
retro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.