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Old 02-02-2010, 03:38 PM   #16
Vander
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600km to a tank in a 323 doesn't sound that good as that's what I can easily get in my 330. I use to get almost 1000km to a tank in my 318i . . . I would expect you to be somewhere in the middle?
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:09 PM   #17
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with all city driving in my 325i i can get ~550km. if i do more highway its higher closer to 700+. but it also depends on tire size. on my summer tires which are 245's i get less than on my winter or previous all season tires.
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:37 PM   #18
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Huh? 1000Km? Sheeesh, the best I did on my 318i was little over 700K without the low gas light coming on that was highway driving too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vander View Post
600km to a tank in a 323 doesn't sound that good as that's what I can easily get in my 330. I use to get almost 1000km to a tank in my 318i . . . I would expect you to be somewhere in the middle?
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Last edited by digiital; 02-02-2010 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vander View Post
600km to a tank in a 323 doesn't sound that good as that's what I can easily get in my 330. I use to get almost 1000km to a tank in my 318i . . . I would expect you to be somewhere in the middle?
What year was that 318i? I bet it was all highway mileage.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvan View Post
What year was that 318i? I bet it was all highway mileage.
maybe it was a 318d.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:10 PM   #21
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^Sounds like it.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:46 AM   #22
Vander
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nope it wasn't a diesel . . . car was a 94 318i running on 87 octane lol

I used to average 6L/100km even with pretty spirited driving , that was all highway though
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:52 PM   #23
Dupez
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For the door locks, in the morning I warm up my car for a bit and go back inside, What I do is turn the car on with the remote key and manually lock my driver side door with the other key (non remote). it locks all my doors and I manually unlock the driver side to enter my car when i'm ready to go..

Also to answer your HID question, it could be your bulb, try swapping the lights and see if you have the same problem. If it's still the same side then it has to be something shorting out, When I replaced my bulbs, I ended up blowing one of my ignitors and had to buy a new one and there not cheap! My OEM color temperature was around 4300K but now I changed my heads and fogs to 8000K, you would probably want 6000K, that would be white

Hope this helps
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Old 07-25-2010, 01:55 PM   #24
sammyD323
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Warming up. The car is not meant to sit and idle in order to warm up. It says in the owners manual not to idle at all, but start driving immediately at moderate speed.
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:22 PM   #25
E46Titan
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From the sounds of your post, you bought a poorly maintained 323i. Unless you really know what to look for this is a common thing. Bimmers need more care and maintenance than Jap cars and can cost a lot of it isn't given this TLC.

You're car needs likely needs all the basic maintenance that was due at a much earlier mileage.

At 100 K, the cooling system needs to be rebuilt. Waterpump , thermo, expansion tank. The thermostat is likely why it takes so long to warm up. My car warms up in a few minutes of slow driving.

At 100- 150 K suspension needs to be rebuit. This inlcudes Control Arms, bushings and ball joints, Sway bar end links, Rear shock mounts.

At 150-200K shocks need to be replaced, Springs should be inspected.

Anywhere from about 40 K VANOS seals need to be replaced (sometimes you feel this, sometimes you don't)

Also the basics.

Spark plugs (NGK's)
Valve Cover Gasket
CVV system
Any sensors (O2, camshaft, etc...) if codes are thrown.
Check for air leaks around the intake.
Brake pads, rotors, sensors
etc.. the list is long

Oil changes every 10, 000 km using only LL-01 approved oil. ( BMW oil is the cheapest and best).

Do these things one by one and you will have an entirely different car that drives like new again. One that might sway you from ever buying Japanese again. Also these cars love to be redline and driven HARD all the time, so that should not be an issue.

Also read this E46 wiki. It has literally everything you would want to know about the car and what to do when something goes wrong. It is invaluable to owning these cars.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46

Last edited by E46Titan; 07-26-2010 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:11 PM   #26
hamant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawcio View Post
maybe it was a 318d.
it had to be... there is no way in hell he was getting 1000 km on a 318i
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:15 PM   #27
hamant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E46Titan View Post
From the sounds of your post, you bought a poorly maintained 323i. Unless you really know what to look for this is a common thing. Bimmers need more care and maintenance than Jap cars and can cost a lot of it isn't given this TLC.

You're car needs likely needs all the basic maintenance that was due at a much earlier mileage.

At 100 K, the cooling system needs to be rebuilt. Waterpump , thermo, expansion tank. The thermostat is likely why it takes so long to warm up. My car warms up in a few minutes of slow driving.

At 100- 150 K suspension needs to be rebuit. This inlcudes Control Arms, bushings and ball joints, Sway bar end links, Rear shock mounts.

At 150-200K shocks need to be replaced, Springs should be inspected.

Anywhere from about 40 K VANOS seals need to be replaced (sometimes you feel this, sometimes you don't)

Also the basics.

Spark plugs (NGK's)
Valve Cover Gasket
CVV system
Any sensors (O2, camshaft, etc...) if codes are thrown.
Check for air leaks around the intake.
Brake pads, rotors, sensors
etc.. the list is long

Oil changes every 10, 000 km using only LL-01 approved oil. ( BMW oil is the cheapest and best).

Do these things one by one and you will have an entirely different car that drives like new again. One that might sway you from ever buying Japanese again. Also these cars love to be redline and driven HARD all the time, so that should not be an issue.

Also read this E46 wiki. It has literally everything you would want to know about the car and what to do when something goes wrong. It is invaluable to owning these cars.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46
I don't know about your numbers,

I did my ball joints/ tierods at 220 000 Km
I have yet to do anything in the cooling system except the thermostat
my suspension is shot, but i still drive on it

car has 266 000 km... besides the suspension (rear shock mounts and shocks) everything else is still working ok on it

I mean my passanger window reg is slowly dying, the oil level sensor is done, my check engine light has been on for 2 months now, but car is still running solidly
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:43 PM   #28
E46Titan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamant View Post
I don't know about your numbers,

I did my ball joints/ tierods at 220 000 Km
I have yet to do anything in the cooling system except the thermostat
my suspension is shot, but i still drive on it

car has 266 000 km... besides the suspension (rear shock mounts and shocks) everything else is still working ok on it

I mean my passanger window reg is slowly dying, the oil level sensor is done, my check engine light has been on for 2 months now, but car is still running solidly

These numbers are well respected by many many people. They are all preventative maintenance and should be done in order to avoid any catastrophic failures or increased repair costs.

If you prefer to drive you car in poor condition then it's your choice. I for one will not drive on a suspension that does not perform perfectly. You yourself said the suspension was shot and CABS have been proven time and time again to start failing at 120K and above.

Your cooling system is a ticking time bomb, especially the expansion tank as these go catastrophically without warning and can and will leave you stranded. I hope I don't have to tell you what happens when an aluminum block straigh 6 overheats even for a very short amount of time.

I did most of the cooling system myself for about $400 in parts. $400 seems like a very small amount for piece of mind and the assurance that my car will not overheat and cost me thousands later to try and fix/replace an engine if any of the parts were to fail. There is more to the list as well, I replace my tranny and diff fluid every 50 K.

I suggest you start replacing these items and get your car back to the way it's supposed to be. Then again it's your car and you should treat it how you see fit.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:32 PM   #29
hamant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E46Titan View Post
These numbers are well respected by many many people. They are all preventative maintenance and should be done in order to avoid any catastrophic failures or increased repair costs.

If you prefer to drive you car in poor condition then it's your choice. I for one will not drive on a suspension that does not perform perfectly. You yourself said the suspension was shot and CABS have been proven time and time again to start failing at 120K and above.

Your cooling system is a ticking time bomb, especially the expansion tank as these go catastrophically without warning and can and will leave you stranded. I hope I don't have to tell you what happens when an aluminum block straigh 6 overheats even for a very short amount of time.

I did most of the cooling system myself for about $400 in parts. $400 seems like a very small amount for piece of mind and the assurance that my car will not overheat and cost me thousands later to try and fix/replace an engine if any of the parts were to fail. There is more to the list as well, I replace my tranny and diff fluid every 50 K.

I suggest you start replacing these items and get your car back to the way it's supposed to be. Then again it's your car and you should treat it how you see fit.
well... mines at 266 000, so im gonna go ahead and say the car is happy the way i maintain it... you make it sound like the second something in the cooling system fails your car is going to explode

the suspension is shot, so what.... the important parts are already done, tierods, balljoints etc .... having blown shocks isn't going to cause my car (or any car for that matter) to suddenly explode


A catastrophic failure is if my cylinder blows thru my mani... anything else is fixable.... not sure what you consider a catastrophic failure... is my check engine light a catastrophic failure?

my golf did 313 000 KM before I scrapped it... not ONCE in my time owning it (since 180 000KM) did i change the tranny fluid, engine coolant and any suspension compoents expect the lower BJ's and front bearings, and that was only AFTER they started acting up......
their is preventative to a point... replacing EVERYTHING before you think its going to fail is extreme.... they're BMWs.. not Lada's

Last edited by hamant; 07-29-2010 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:52 PM   #30
E46Titan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamant View Post
well... mines at 266 000, so im gonna go ahead and say the car is happy the way i maintain it... you make it sound like the second something in the cooling system fails your car is going to explode

the suspension is shot, so what.... the important parts are already done, tierods, balljoints etc .... having blown shocks isn't going to cause my car (or any car for that matter) to suddenly explode


A catastrophic failure is if my cylinder blows thru my mani... anything else is fixable.... not sure what you consider a catastrophic failure... is my check engine light a catastrophic failure?

my golf did 313 000 KM before I scrapped it... not ONCE in my time owning it (since 180 000KM) did i change the tranny fluid, engine coolant and any suspension compoents expect the lower BJ's and front bearings, and that was only AFTER they started acting up......
their is preventative to a point... replacing EVERYTHING before you think its going to fail is extreme.... they're BMWs.. not Lada's

Then you obviously don't maintain your cars properly. If the expansion tank goes, which it will, you will loose most of your coolant in a few seconds. The engine will overheat in another few seconds. Pretty catastrophic to me. These are straight 6's. The will warp extremely quickly. There are many many people out there like you who just wait till things fail and many who have had to replace head gaskets or entire engines. Do a little reading and you will see I'm right.

You've owned the car only since 180 K, maybe the PO changed a few of those things out. I cringe if my car is not running at it's best, maybe cause I'm a true enthusiast and want to keep my car like new.

These are not golfs. They are highly tuned sports sedans and need regular preventative maintenance, more so than others. Infact all cars need these things. There is nothing in there that is not part of regular maintenance. They are just suggested times when those parts begin to fail on E46's. Proven time and time again.

I guess you think that trans fluid and diff fluid is lifetime like BMW suggests . I would put my house up if you can find me any gear oil that will properly protect the internals with 260 K on it. Go ahead prove it to me.
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