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04-17-2009, 08:55 AM
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#1
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Not Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Schomberg
Posts: 4,325
Car: '85 325e
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Electrical drainage ftmfl...
Okay, so I'm having this awesome problem with my battery....
If I leave the car off for more than a day, the battery dies. It's not the battery, I've already replaced it with no results. I've also checked a few times that I'm not leaving any lights on or anything.
Kind of sucks going somewhere and fearing that your car might not start by the time you get back to it.... I've taken to disconnecting the positive lead on the battery every time I'm out and parked jsut so it doesn't drain.
So my question is..... where do I start?? What could possibly be causing it? (Out of the 10 billion posibilities....) Could someone give me a checklist of sorts of what I should look at as a possible drain?... maybe starting from cheapest to most expensive...
Thanks...
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04-17-2009, 10:15 AM
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#2
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 4,359
Car: 91 318is,93 325is...
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aftermarket stereo install???? most common place for things to go wrong with battery drain
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04-17-2009, 10:20 AM
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#3
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Gets Blown Daily
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Scarghetto
Posts: 6,151
Car: 1994 333HP Supercharged Project E36, 1996 Hummer H1
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I am having this problem on my e36 since it sat for a year. Before tracing all your wires and ripping apart the stereo take a wire brush or rough sandpaper to your battery terminals and clamps. Really rough them up until shiny then try again, then rinse everything with some baking soda and water mixture. I did this on mine last night and have been letting it charge overnight. I'm hoping in a few minutes my issue will be solved
Some dielectric grease on the terminals is also a good idea...
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'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)
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04-17-2009, 10:42 AM
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#4
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: .
Posts: 3,722
Car: .
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Its too bad im an asshat, I have lots of advice to give on electrical diagnostics.
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04-17-2009, 11:10 AM
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#5
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Not Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Schomberg
Posts: 4,325
Car: '85 325e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveItSideways
Its too bad im an asshat, I have lots of advice to give on electrical diagnostics.
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That's cool, you have no obligation to do anything to help others.
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04-17-2009, 11:13 AM
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#6
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: .
Posts: 3,722
Car: .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fel
That's cool, you have no obligation to do anything to help others.
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thats right, but I would have helped if you didnt stick your nose out where it didnt belong.
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04-17-2009, 11:23 AM
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#7
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Not Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Schomberg
Posts: 4,325
Car: '85 325e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveItSideways
thats right, but I would have helped if you didnt stick your nose out where it didnt belong.
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04-17-2009, 12:37 PM
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#8
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5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 1,102
Car: 87 325is OBD I S52
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Wow are you serious? The guy is obviously in a jam. Help him out.
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1987 325is(Midnight Tuning Tuned OBD I S52  ) - Current Summer Car
2012 Hyundai Veloster Tech- Daily Driver
1985 318i - 1st Car (started it all)
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04-17-2009, 12:45 PM
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#9
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Cars in Perpetual Repair
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Guelph
Posts: 5,280
Car: 328i & 327i turbo
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Bust out the electrical tester and start checking for current flow on fuses and relays in your fuse box. If you find that there is some current flow you can find out what the fuse or relay provides power to and start inspecting those systems.
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04-17-2009, 12:51 PM
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#10
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Not Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Schomberg
Posts: 4,325
Car: '85 325e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinan_M5
Bust out the electrical tester and start checking for current flow on fuses and relays in your fuse box. If you find that there is some current flow you can find out what the fuse or relay provides power to and start inspecting those systems.
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Yeah, this is what I'm gonna do.... soon as I track down a meter. I'm kind of curious whether my trunk light is staying on or something... but I'm not gonna lock myself in the trunk to find out
There are also aftermarket audio components installed, before my ownership, so they may or may not be contributing to the problem. I guess testing which circuit is causing the drain will help me determine where to look.
Quote:
Originally Posted by matty.dc
Wow are you serious? The guy is obviously in a jam. Help him out.
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Don't mind him, dude... he's srs bsns.
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04-17-2009, 12:51 PM
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#11
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Over 9 F**KING THOUSAND!!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Oakville
Posts: 9,646
Car: '91 325iS | '96 332i
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Get a good quality multimeter, unhook main batter positive lead (use the one on the firewall, closer to fuse box). Set multimeter on ammeter mode, run in series between positive terminal block on firewall and main lead to fuse box. If you have a current flowing you have a drain somewhere, start pulling fuses out of the fuse box until the reading changes, and then investigate that circuit. I had a similar problem, turned out to be the interior constant line (for radio), there was a small cut and corrosion in the wire causing a tiny short to the chassis that didn't draw enough current to blow the fuse but enough to drain the battery overnight.
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S52|ZF|TRM Coilovers 670/895|Staggered 18" 5's
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04-17-2009, 01:25 PM
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#12
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Gets Blown Daily
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Scarghetto
Posts: 6,151
Car: 1994 333HP Supercharged Project E36, 1996 Hummer H1
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Hey just an update on the post I made here earlier.... my e36 starts up and holds charge no problem now since I cleaned the battery terminals. Try it, it might be that easy
__________________
'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)
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04-17-2009, 01:30 PM
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#13
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Not Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Schomberg
Posts: 4,325
Car: '85 325e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxe
Get a good quality multimeter, unhook main batter positive lead (use the one on the firewall, closer to fuse box). Set multimeter on ammeter mode, run in series between positive terminal block on firewall and main lead to fuse box. If you have a current flowing you have a drain somewhere, start pulling fuses out of the fuse box until the reading changes, and then investigate that circuit. I had a similar problem, turned out to be the interior constant line (for radio), there was a small cut and corrosion in the wire causing a tiny short to the chassis that didn't draw enough current to blow the fuse but enough to drain the battery overnight.
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Thanks for the info man. You comin out tonight?
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04-17-2009, 05:09 PM
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#14
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Over 9 F**KING THOUSAND!!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Oakville
Posts: 9,646
Car: '91 325iS | '96 332i
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Don't know, working as usual, depends on how early I'm done. No plans for womenz after so I might as well show up at the meet if I'm done. 50/50 chance.
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S52|ZF|TRM Coilovers 670/895|Staggered 18" 5's
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04-17-2009, 07:09 PM
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#15
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JUICY J CAN'T
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: T.
Posts: 17,010
Car: S54 titties
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PM quack. Have him sell you a battery kill switch (they come on new cars). He jewed me for 15$, but he might give it to you for 10$.
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