Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > maXimum Tech > 3 Series > E30 (1983 - 1991)
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 04-12-2009, 10:58 PM   #1
supernaught
6th Gear Member
 
supernaught's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 1,324
Send a message via MSN to supernaught
Engine rebuild woes - not cranking

Just finished a pitifully long top end rebuild on my white AUTO IX and now its not starting. Here are a few things I did.

Head - ported and polished, 272 cam, new springs and valves/guides
Head gasket and bolts
All intake and exhaust gaskets
Plugs
New Wires
19lb injectors
New(used) engine Harness from my parts car(also an auto 89 IX)
New belts
ICV
AFM
All new hoses - coolant fuel and vacuum
Battery
Fuel Pump
Water pump + tensioner
Crank PS

So, theres one connector I left undone in the glovebox as I had no idea what it was for. Its one of the wires coming off the main harness connector that plugs into the ecu. I checked how it was on my 88 5 spd and it wasn't even connected. What are these 2 connectors for?

Next. I installed a new battery after all was done and turned the ignition. Nothing. So I tried a few more times, I could hear the click of the starter solenoid after a few tries, then it sounded like it rolled over 1/4 turn then nothing. Re-cleaned all terminals on the starer and tried again - sill nothing. So I think, **** starter is dead. Well damn if I didnt have a spare one handy. So I spent my Easter Sunday swapping the starter with a known good one. Wired it up and click. Solenoid only. No cranking.

Thought maybe my selector was not properly in P, so I tried N, and then a few other spots and still nothing.

So here are a few other hints that may help. Pushing the car out of the garage in N was fairly difficult. If put in P it would hold as it should. Engine does not feel hard to turn with a wrench on the crank. Car has not run for a while.
Car needs a new throttle cable as the current one sticks a little so the throttle body doesn't close all the way everytime without encouragement.
Check Engine light is on but the stomp test wouldnt work due to the sticky throttle(realized later that I could have forced it from the TB by hand).

All fluids are in good shape but will be flushed when the car is running.
M30 AFM, CAI, cone and chip will be going on once I get it to start.

So will my TPS not being closed cause a no start?
Will the unconnected wire near my ECU cause it?
Is my auto tranny nearly seized from sitting too long?
Is my second starter ****ed as well?
Could I have a short somewhere when I turn the ign to crank?
Do I just have a bad ground to my starter(engine ground strap is good)?

I was doing this be myself today so some things were not as easy to do for diagnostics, but I intend to get my meter on everything to make sure I/ve getting voltage where I should and all my grounds are sound, and to look for shorts. I must be missing something. ****ing starter. All that and the same result. BTW someone put 2 E-Torx head bolts on my starter - heads on the tranny side. WTF is that? bastards.

Help is appreciated. If I can get enough suggestions by the morning it would be great, I am not near the net when working on this car.
__________________

88 325IX TOURING DiamantSchwarz|89 325IX AlpinWeiss|88 325IX DiamantSchwarz
supernaught is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 12:48 AM   #2
1'M Seriesus
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Brantford
Posts: 161
you have might have engine hydraulic lock, if it is then it means that a fuel injector has had a mechanical malfunction and is stuck open, and the engine will no longer turn over because of the non compressible liquid (i.e. Fuel) is trapped in the cylinder,

to fix this, if it is the problem

- remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine manually

"DO NOT CRANK IT OVER WITH THE STARTER"

- check compression on all of the cylinders, crank engine until compressor gauge stops rising, compression should be anywhere from 143-156 psi or 10-11 bars

-if the compression is lower than 143 in the cylinder than its most likely the cylinder with the stuck open injector, that piston/connecting rod may have been damaged due to the hydraulic lock

if the compression is normal than maybe your fuel pump has seized from not being started or driven in awhile like you said, remove the back seat and tap lightly or bang on the fuel pump inspection cover with a rubber mallet or hammer preferably the mallet lol while cranking the engine, it should start working again, but me personally i would replace it if it has seized before, but other than that i dont have any ideas except for lack of electrical power and that can mean a possible short somewhere

Good Luck

yeah about those wires what colours are they????

Last edited by 1'M Seriesus; 04-13-2009 at 12:55 AM.
1'M Seriesus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 01:04 AM   #3
Ceeker
Parts hoarding partner...
 
Ceeker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,384
Whichever sequence you prefer; check power supply to starter and ground. make sure it's good- volt meter. if this checks out and starter is good then next step is as mentioned hydrolock. Could be this.

My service manual suggests:

1. starter not working with ign on: ignition switch or wiring leading from ignition sw to solenoid faulty. less then 8 volts to solenoid.

- solenoid switch faulty to starter motor less then 8 volts
- Starter motor faulty
- Neutral/park/reverse switch faulty - auto tranny.

Starter turns slowly or fails to turn engine:

- dirty or loose or corroded starter connections
-Dirtly or loose or corroded ground strap between body and engine
- starter worn or faulty

Starter makes unusual noise turns erratically or fails to turn:

-Drive pinion defective
-Flywheel or driveplate ring gear damaged

Starter operates but does not turn engine:

-starter drive pinion or armature shaft faulty
-solenoid switch mech. faulty

This was what is written in the troubleshoot part in electrical.

Hope this helps. good luck
Ceeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 09:09 AM   #4
supernaught
6th Gear Member
 
supernaught's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 1,324
Send a message via MSN to supernaught
as stated in original post, engine does not crank. no turnover. Just the click of the solenoid
I can turn it by hand with a wrench so im slightly skeptical about hydrolock.
Will be working on the starter circuit first, then working through other causes of shorts, etc through the fuseblock.
Thanks for the suggestions
__________________

88 325IX TOURING DiamantSchwarz|89 325IX AlpinWeiss|88 325IX DiamantSchwarz
supernaught is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 10:38 AM   #5
dgmorr
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 835
Is it a brand new battery?
__________________
dgmorr is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 10:50 AM   #6
1'M Seriesus
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Brantford
Posts: 161
yes it cant turn over or crank due to it not being able to compress the gasoline in the combustion chamber due to a faulty fuel injector, there is nowhere for the piston to go, check your oil for gas
1'M Seriesus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 11:17 AM   #7
T.Dot_E30
Classifieds Moderator
 
T.Dot_E30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: T.Dot
Posts: 9,428
check voltage, try boosting.

Get the starter to crank before anything. Either the starter circuit or the starter itself.
__________________
T.Dot_E30 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 12:03 PM   #8
Boxer2
The OPP loves my M5
 
Boxer2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Woodstock, On, Canada
Posts: 771
This really sounds like a starter issue to me, I was having the same issue with my old '88 ix, the problem was, the braided wire going from the solenoid body the the starter motor body was covered in green death and so corroded that no contact was being made, so just to see what would happen (for diagnostic purposes only) I jammed a screw into it and screwed in down into the starter motor body, turned the key and it fired right up...I drove it like that for the rest of the winter then replaced the starter. Also my buddies '88ix did the same thing the other day, we put another starter in it and sure enough, it fired right up. Good luck with your issue, I hope this helps.
__________________


My Garage:
1986 328is (M20 Stroker)
1986 535i (5sp all original)
1990 325iX (Mint 5sp all original)
1989 325iX (Winter auto X car)
1991 M5
1988 M6
2001 740i (Supercharged)
2004 X5 3.0i (The DD)
Boxer2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 01:14 PM   #9
supernaught
6th Gear Member
 
supernaught's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 1,324
Send a message via MSN to supernaught
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1'M Seriesus View Post
yes it cant turn over or crank due to it not being able to compress the gasoline in the combustion chamber due to a faulty fuel injector, there is nowhere for the piston to go, check your oil for gas
This IS NOT the case. I can turn the engine easily buy hand with a wrench. The fuel lines are not charged so a leaky injector will not do anything.

I have already tried swapping the starter and no difference. Before installing the replacement, I checked that the ground was good from end to end. I'm on my way out to check for voltage at the main starter terminal now, this seems to be the most obvious place to look.

Picked up a compression tester so I will be checking all cylinders as well.
__________________

88 325IX TOURING DiamantSchwarz|89 325IX AlpinWeiss|88 325IX DiamantSchwarz
supernaught is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 01:55 PM   #10
andicanada
4th Gear Member
 
andicanada's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Berlin Germany
Posts: 660
Send a message via MSN to andicanada
i did have the same problem last time i changed a engine with Tom (highline motors)

the starter was only clicking even with a new batterie fully loaded and a booster
reson for that was a brocken ground cabel (it was brocken inside off the insulation)
after changing the ground cable the result was still the same but after we boosted the car with a jumper cable from a other car the engine was running like a dream
andicanada is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 01:58 PM   #11
craz azn
6th Gear Member
 
craz azn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Port Perry
Posts: 7,529
Send a message via MSN to craz azn
^^ +1

Try putting jumper cables from your motor to your chassis and try again.
__________________

Rippin' Proper | Youtube | Vimeo |
craz azn is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 03:20 PM   #12
supernaught
6th Gear Member
 
supernaught's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 1,324
Send a message via MSN to supernaught
^^ I'll give that a try when i go back out. The starter pinion was stuck extended so I couldnt rotate the motor. I removed the starter again and I now intend to bench test it. Any ideas? I plan on just putting starter in a vise, run a lead from +ve batt terminal to large terminal on starter, ground on starter to -ve on batt, then using a small jumper between 12V and starter terminal to trigger the signal from ign switch.
I will test my old starter as well.

After I test and they prove good, I'll be reinstalling and setting up the jumpers as described above.

Thanks
__________________

88 325IX TOURING DiamantSchwarz|89 325IX AlpinWeiss|88 325IX DiamantSchwarz
supernaught is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 09:28 PM   #13
supernaught
6th Gear Member
 
supernaught's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 1,324
Send a message via MSN to supernaught
bench tested both starters and both had working solenoids, but both had no working motor. I wasn't sure, so I took them to be tested, old one had a bad brush and was full of corrosion, needed a greased shaft, the other(purchased used from bavarian auto recyclers) had a short.
So, looking for a new starter.

Rich, if you have one for an M20, let me know, I might need it Wednesday
__________________

88 325IX TOURING DiamantSchwarz|89 325IX AlpinWeiss|88 325IX DiamantSchwarz
supernaught is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 09:57 PM   #14
sok
3rd Gear Member
 
sok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: toronto
Posts: 364
Check your crank sensor, & check the cylinder locater wire they may be switched as on my 88 325i they are the exact same connectors. Cause no crank signal will cause a no start, hope that helps.
__________________
sok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 10:31 PM   #15
supernaught
6th Gear Member
 
supernaught's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 1,324
Send a message via MSN to supernaught
cylinder locator wire? oh, you mean at the connection under the test plug. I am pretty sure I have that sorted but I will be sure to verify it when I am back in the car.
__________________

88 325IX TOURING DiamantSchwarz|89 325IX AlpinWeiss|88 325IX DiamantSchwarz
supernaught is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Maxbimmer Copyright 2001 - 2014