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Old 04-01-2009, 03:12 PM   #16
TNation
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ok... how bout. in 4 years time theres going to be alot more rust around the car?
hahaha that's too true
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:35 PM   #17
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ok... how bout. in 4 years time theres going to be alot more rust around the car?
Yup likely all of our cars will have more problems in 4 years! Yours too!
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:50 PM   #18
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Yup likely all of our cars will have more problems in 4 years! Yours too!
rust is worse than any mechanical issue, ever.
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:10 AM   #19
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rust is worse than any mechanical issue, ever.
not worse then electrical gremlins... those are by far the worst..

OHH WHATS THAT?!?!?!?

POWER LOCKS WANT TO OPEN AND CLOSE CONSTANTLY FOR 5 MINUTES ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN I DIDNT EVEN TOUCH ANYTHING?!?!?!?!?!!?

AND NOW IT STOPPED?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!

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Old 04-02-2009, 07:14 AM   #20
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If done properly, rust reparation will not come back. At least not sooner that "natural", they really have a conception problem in that area.

You don't have to cut and weld a new piece too, just use a sand blast to blast every little piece of rust there is and it will be perfect.

I've done 5-6 E36 last years that had this exact same problem (and the trunk too ...) and no one ever came back telling me that the rust was resurfacing. The only time you have to cut and weld is when you have a hole larger than a dollar in your quarter. Other then that, there is plenty of solution to use.

For 600$, i'm 100% sure that they won't cut and they will probably blend the paint in the quarter line (not a good idea a blend ALWAYS fade. Sometime it take 2 years, sometime it take 2 month depending of the material and how the painter is good).

For 1000$, i'm preaty sure they won't cut to because it is really a small rust spot you have. But they will probably paint the hole quarter and rocker panel do to the smallest blend possible (between the quarter glass and the back glass).

Remember that bodywork material are extremely expensive, it will probably cost them about 300-350$ in material to do your car !
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Old 04-04-2009, 05:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ericdalinda View Post
not worse then electrical gremlins... those are by far the worst..

OHH WHATS THAT?!?!?!?

POWER LOCKS WANT TO OPEN AND CLOSE CONSTANTLY FOR 5 MINUTES ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN I DIDNT EVEN TOUCH ANYTHING?!?!?!?!?!!?

AND NOW IT STOPPED?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!

foo foo valve actuator, happens all the time
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Old 04-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #22
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Id say sand blast it... cars that are 15 year old are not gonna be perfect and you just have to accept that...
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Old 04-05-2009, 08:43 PM   #23
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a bit of a tangent, but hey its rust related:

I just noticed the absolute smallest piece of surface rust on my e36 at the base of the trunk today after washing it. Any recommendations? Its a tiny paint chip with some rust in it. I figured just keep the rust inhibitor on it or maybe scratch it off and touch it up with paint.
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Old 04-05-2009, 10:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 328is View Post
If done properly, rust reparation will not come back. At least not sooner that "natural", they really have a conception problem in that area.

You don't have to cut and weld a new piece too, just use a sand blast to blast every little piece of rust there is and it will be perfect.

I've done 5-6 E36 last years that had this exact same problem (and the trunk too ...) and no one ever came back telling me that the rust was resurfacing. The only time you have to cut and weld is when you have a hole larger than a dollar in your quarter. Other then that, there is plenty of solution to use.

For 600$, i'm 100% sure that they won't cut and they will probably blend the paint in the quarter line (not a good idea a blend ALWAYS fade. Sometime it take 2 years, sometime it take 2 month depending of the material and how the painter is good).

For 1000$, i'm preaty sure they won't cut to because it is really a small rust spot you have. But they will probably paint the hole quarter and rocker panel do to the smallest blend possible (between the quarter glass and the back glass).

Remember that bodywork material are extremely expensive, it will probably cost them about 300-350$ in material to do your car !
^ Good Post. I was going to say, sandblasting does get the rust out, with lasting results. More specifically, sandblasting gets all the microscopic rust pits out. This is the key to lasting results.

The BMW rust on the door seams and trunk seems are very very very difficult to replace.
GM cars have the same problem.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:26 AM   #25
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My 95M3 has no rust anywhere, period. Having said that I did buy it in Arizona. If you rust check your car every year there should be no rust anywhere.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:31 AM   #26
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My 95M3 has no rust anywhere, period. Having said that I did buy it in Arizona. If you rust check your car every year there should be no rust anywhere.
if you wash out all the sand and dirt from the seams and under the doors, under the hood, trunk, rubber trims, fenderwells, undercarriage you won t have rust. What good does oil do when you have rocks, sand and dirt scratching away the finish.
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:33 AM   #27
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if you wash out all the sand and dirt from the seams and under the doors, under the hood, trunk, rubber trims, fenderwells, undercarriage you won t have rust. What good does oil do when you have rocks, sand and dirt scratching away the finish.
The oil penetrates to the metal and does not allow salt to grab hold.

Rule of thumb for winter;

1) wash your car every day if the temperature is above -9c. Below this the salt does not work.

2) Make sure you wash under the car and wheel wells.

3) Also check before winter that the rubber seal in the wheel well is there and intact.

4) Do not park your car in a garage if its full of salt.
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Old 04-06-2009, 01:49 PM   #28
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The oil penetrates to the metal and does not allow salt to grab hold.

Rule of thumb for winter;

1) wash your car every day if the temperature is above -9c. Below this the salt does not work.

2) Make sure you wash under the car and wheel wells.

3) Also check before winter that the rubber seal in the wheel well is there and intact.

4) Do not park your car in a garage if its full of salt.
perfect! and the key is, buy a car from the southern US
very smart move man.
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:01 PM   #29
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This is a common spot for e36's to rust; I've seen so many, some get really bad and some not. if you leave it of course it will be bigger. Sand blast the spot from the outside. Note: rust comes from behind and lifts the paint eventually. Clean it up, put high quality filler and blow it in to match. Don't put good money into bad. spend a couple hundred at most.
The quotes are you getting are guys who anticipate the worst because in most often cases what you see is only the tip of the iceberg. Once they start grinding it could be on going or you might get lucky and it's only that area.
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:26 PM   #30
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Just custom fit e30 ix flares and skirt and you don't have to worry about rust for another 10 years or until the flares fall off with what would be left of your rear quarter.
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