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Old 10-30-2008, 09:09 AM   #1
StikiGreenZ
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Rims stuck

Anyone ever have a problem removing their rims? Yesterday, I unbolted the drivers side front wheel and could not get it to separate from the rotor/hub. I tried using penetrating fluid, hitting the wheel/tire from behind and front, lowering the car onto the ground with no bolts attached, nothing.

Anyone have any ideas to get around the seizing or bonding b/w the aluminum wheel and steel rotor? I heard its cause of the heating/cooling of the brakes taht causes them to bond?!
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:03 AM   #2
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try some penetrating oil then hit with a huge sledge hammer, use a block of wood behind the wheel and couple of good swings.

next time you put wheels on try to torque them properly and use some lubricant on the hub. (I use the silver one, forgot the name)
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:31 AM   #3
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Use Anti-Seize Compound. It comes in silver or copper colored. It's less than $10 and will save you lots of aggravation during rim changes. Apply them along the pattern that the rim leaves on the hub (contact surfaces). Also put a wee bit of compound on the lug bolts and torque them at 88 ft/lbs. Check the torque frequently if you're using steel wheels.
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:18 PM   #4
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Also put a wee bit of compound on the lug bolts and torque them at 88 ft/lbs. Check the torque frequently if you're using steel wheels.
Not such a hot idea. When the threads are lubed the torque reading is inaccurate.
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:31 PM   #5
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^^ dont buy cheap bolts LOL, stick to OEM

StikiGreenZ: simply the hub/wheel corroded inside, if you are worried about hitting the wheel with sledge hammer then loosen all bolts... then hand tighten them again (not too hard using only a 17mm deep socket, not the wrench) and set your wheel down on the ground, then you will need to wiggle the car/wheel a little so that it loosens up.
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:43 PM   #6
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tow hook +chain...shit does wonders for me
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:41 PM   #7
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tow hook +chain...shit does wonders for me
how about chisel and hammer :-)
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Old 10-30-2008, 04:50 PM   #8
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http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/show...ht=Wheel+Stuck

Look at Eurostyle's post. Perhaps that would work.
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Old 10-31-2008, 10:00 PM   #9
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Not such a hot idea. When the threads are lubed the torque reading is inaccurate.
That idea never occurred to me. Now that you've mentioned it, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info!

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Old 11-01-2008, 11:02 AM   #10
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I use the old block of wood and hammer trick, my fronts are always a pain to remove, thank god this week looks like its going to be warm, one more week without having to put the snows on.
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:10 AM   #11
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did u ever get the rim off? to get the rim off your gonna have to hit the tire from the back but make sure not to hit the rim. when u finally get themm off use antiseize compound that is used for your breaks its like a copper coloured stuff and just apply it to the back of the rim
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:54 PM   #12
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Not yet, going to try it again 2moro. I couldnt find a friend with a hoist this weekend so I'll be jacking the car up again tomorrow.
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:04 PM   #13
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ya, driving around with the bolts on loosely will help. i put anti seize on the hub or inside of the wheel where they touch....never had any issues.
remember that when the car is down on the ground...ALWAYS have bolts on. incase the wheel does come off, you don't want your car dropping on the floor.
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:25 PM   #14
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+1 to putting having the bolts hand tight and going for a SLOW drive up and down your driveway/street.
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:23 AM   #15
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Numerous people have told me that driving with the bolts hand tight would cause stress to the bearing? I plan on taking the car around the block very slowly with the bolts hand tightened this evening (by hand tight I mean torqued to 1 ft. lbs).
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