It was time to get serious with cleaning up the head and block so I could send them out to be machined.
We started with the cylinder head which looked like utter hell in as you can see in the very first pic in this thread, but after a couple hours of sodium blasting (again thanks to
Jays having every tool under the sun), I was able to get it super clean. The only downside, I will say, to using a soda blaster is that the soda gets EVERYWHERE inside the piece. So,
I have probably washed this head about... 4 - 5 times now. I am satisfied that it is clean, but yeah it's definitely annoying. Sand/bead blasting like we did with the other parts is
not an option because you cannot afford to alter the finish/dimension of the combustion chamber and as I have experienced and no matter what anyone tells you, bead blasting DOES
The cleaned up cylinder head looks like:
Quite awesome if you ask me.
The head just came back from the machine shop and was confirmed flat so all they did was barely touch the surface of the head - has some nice machining in it that is sure to give a
good seal. I am not sure whether or not I'll be using the copper head gasket spray but I have purchased it just in case so last minute I am not scouring trying to find something
ridiculous like that.
Here is the head back from the machine shop - doesn't look much different. You can see there are new valve seals installed:
excuse cell phone pics
Today [7/7/2007] was spent up at Jay's lapping the valves into the head. I am retaining all of the original valves because they are perfectly fine and straight and just needed to be
cleaned up of carbon. The intake valves were a BREEZE to clean. Brushed them right up and they came out as shiny as new. The exhaust valves, however, were very stubborn (as one can
expect). We had originally tried soda blasting them and I was only marginally successful with that. I have read that you can bead blast the valve face but I don't want to risk
destroying the valve surface. Wire brushed them again, and it proved to be quite adequate in cleaning. There is still some carbon on the lower stem/flute of the valve (backside) on
the exhaust but it's sure to be more than fine. I couldn't justify $270 in new exhaust valves (not even including intake valves) and I have talked to many people who said using them
over again is safe - if they were bent there'd be no question as to what would have to happen. I don't have the money to rock aftermarket Ferrea valves or anything like, and so the
stockies will have to do - I am sure I won't be disappointed. The guides are very long and provide good wear characteristics (if any wear!) and so I am content with the valvetrain
Here we are after having cleaned up the valves:
You can see the exhaust valves have some discoloration of carbon that was once there - its just discoloration now. The actual carbon (chalky definite surface substance) is all gone.
They are smooth to the touch and you can see the original machining grooves that are a characteristic of the surface.
After the valves were cleaned up, I lapped them into the seats using Permatex valve lapping compound - it was coarser than the Clover compound that Jay had which aided in the
swiftness of completion - but was definitely not overly coarse. I read that a nice mid grade like the compound I hard purchased was the best to use and had the original valve seats
been re-cut, then I should use a series of lapping compounds. Valves seat very nicely and cleanly and are sure to pose no leaks - the seats were in immaculate condition as it was
based on the pics earlier in the thread.
Here are the valve seat surfaces after being lapped:
Shitty cell pic, but you can see the discolored flute of the valve, then a grey surface, and then a discolored section again. The grey section is where the valve seat meats the valve
and the compound is sandwiched between two said surfaces. Jay was pointing out, and I agree, it looks as though the factory did a really good job designing the head - the valve seat
area is quite wide and I have seen some VW and Honda heads which do not have nearly as much valve seat area.
After lapping everything we cleaned the head in a parts washer and washed all the valves off to insure no compound was left over. Cleanliness is godliness they say. We were going to
install the valvetrain but realized that a member on the forum has Jay's cam/valve install tool (cough jfdmas cough... just playing bro) so we have to wait. No big deal.
Current progress on the block is that it is still at the machine shop being wrapped up sometime early this next work week we think. The rods will be balanced to one another and the
crank polished/oil orifice polished so as to insure clean running through new bearings.
I just got back from Jay's to pay da' man. Motor looks really good - completely degreased via hot tank and such. Crank is cleaned up and Jim is going to polish the oil journals at
assembly time - Jim is offering to put it together and he's experienced so I am going to go ahead and have him do it. I will be stopping by to check out what gets done, so once I
start phase 2 (or 3?) of my car I can have an idea of good practice.
Anyway, here are the pics:
Crankshaft is all cleaned up/polished - jim is going to polish the oil journals even more to insure no catching on the new bearings.
Block after hot tank and hone (stock hone for 84mm pistons) - will be powdercoated a high shine/bright silver.