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Old 01-21-2003, 12:31 AM   #1
3 Series Freak
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e30 Intake question

I'm rebuilding my eta engine. I have added a perfromance cam, adustable cam gear, performance chip and plan on doing some polishing and maybe compression work. I am also doing a custom stainless exhaust from the manifold back(most likely 2.5 inch). I was looking for some advice on intake. I haven't come across any custom cold air intakes for a reasonably price. I was thinking of knocking out one of my high beams and running a hose directly to my mass air. I think a combination of a screen and nylon material would keep the dirt and moisture out. What do you guys think? If you know of a reasonable priced cold air intake let me know.
Thanks

Paul
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Old 01-21-2003, 12:57 AM   #2
thinair
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Re: e30 Intake question

Quote:
Originally posted by 3 Series Freak
I was thinking of knocking out one of my high beams and running a hose directly to my mass air. I think a combination of a screen and nylon material would keep the dirt and moisture out.
I've seen the highbeam socket used for an intake, but I would suggest using a real filter instead of screen and nylon.
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Old 01-21-2003, 02:14 AM   #3
89325i
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You can buy an adapter, and filter set up of ebay for like $30, and just make your own heat shield. I have my highbeam out, and i used a peice of pvc pipe to extend it closer behind the headlight.
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Old 01-21-2003, 12:35 PM   #4
e30m52power
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Your best bet...

Get an 'i intake manifold and run a AFM from an e28 5 series (m30 engine). The 5er AFM is round on the end anyways so you just buy a cone (3 1/8") and hook it right up. (K&N part # RC-3250 works great). Dont' forget to make a heatsheild for best results! This setup will have awsome results on your eta.
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Old 01-21-2003, 02:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by e30m52power
Your best bet...

Get an 'i intake manifold and run a AFM from an e28 5 series (m30 engine). The 5er AFM is round on the end anyways so you just buy a cone (3 1/8") and hook it right up. (K&N part # RC-3250 works great). Dont' forget to make a heatsheild for best results! This setup will have awsome results on your eta.

This is very similar to what I would've said had I gotten up earlier this morning

If you're looking for max top end power, go with the 325i manifold, 325i throttle body, M30 (e28 535i) AFM, and 3 bar FPR from a 325i or 535i.

If you don't want to loose much of that lower end torque, then I hear you don't want the 325i manifold. I'd still go with the AFM, throttle body, and FPR.

A few questions: You say you're rebuilding an eta using a performance cam. Is this a performance i cam or a performance eta cam? What other modifications are you performing?

What kind of performance chip are you doing? If it's just a standard eta Jim C or Dinan-like chip, then you won't squeeze all the power out of that setup that you could do.

Here's what I would suggest doing if you're rebuilding an eta:

Use the stock crank, rods, and pistons. Even use the stock head. Replace the rod bearings and that stuff, of course, and make sure everything is in order (you may want to have the crank balanced or something). You may need to have the cylinder walls honed, also. I'd go with a 325i cam (have the extra 3 holes for the oil journals drilled by a machine shop that knows what they're doing), 325i valve springs, and 325i valves. Have the head ported for the bigger 325i valves.

Run a 325i wiring harness and either 535i or Bosch Mustang 19# injectors. Also run the 3 bar FPR. Run the M30 AFM. Go ahead and get a freer flowing / better sounding exhaust.

With the 325i wiring harness, you can run a 325i computer and get a performance chip for the 325i. This way, you'll have that higher redline and won't have to get a custom wiring harness or a custom chip or do any custom work.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-21-2003, 02:43 PM   #6
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Re: Cam setup

Brad,

Brad,

Sounds like you know stuff. I am just starting out and any input would greatly appreciated. the cam is a performance eta from cat cams in belguim. I am also using their adjustable cam gear. The chip is a tc motorsport, don't know that much about it, however a friend said it was great. I plan on having the head honed (multi-cut the valves) but not polished. A couple people told me not to bother and put the money towards having the intake matched to the head (it's called a street port polish). So you suggest to go with the i values & springs instead the eta ones. I am probably staying with the 325e computer since I have the chip. Would you suggest running those mustang injectors with 325e computer. Again your valued input is greatly appreciated.

thanks
Paul
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Old 01-21-2003, 04:33 PM   #7
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Injectors

Brad,

Would you know the part# for those bosch 19# mustang injectors.

thanks again

Paul
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Old 01-21-2003, 05:05 PM   #8
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Re: Re: Cam setup

Quote:
Originally posted by 3 Series Freak
Brad,

Brad,

Sounds like you know stuff. I am just starting out and any input would greatly appreciated. the cam is a performance eta from cat cams in belguim. I am also using their adjustable cam gear. The chip is a tc motorsport, don't know that much about it, however a friend said it was great. I plan on having the head honed (multi-cut the valves) but not polished. A couple people told me not to bother and put the money towards having the intake matched to the head (it's called a street port polish). So you suggest to go with the i values & springs instead the eta ones. I am probably staying with the 325e computer since I have the chip. Would you suggest running those mustang injectors with 325e computer. Again your valued input is greatly appreciated.

thanks
Paul

Paul,

There are several reasons I suggest going with the 325i wiring harness and computer:

1) The 325e/528e uses low impedance injectors while the 325i, 535i, and most 80s-vintage BMWs use high impedance. Running low impedance injectors with a car that's supposed to have high impedance (and vice versa) could burn up the computer. You'll have many more injector choices if you go with a high impedance fuel system like the 325i

2) You'll have a higher redline with the 325i computer, and you can only run the 325i computer on a 325i wiring harness.

3) You have many more options for upgrades with the 325i wiring harness.

A performance eta cam can't do too much since there's already a better cam from the factory: the e30 325i. You want to be sure to get the 325i valve springs, too. The 325e has one set of valve springs while the 325i has that set and a second set, as well. This helps eliminate valve float at higher RPMs. . . if you just run the 325i cam but don't get a higher redline (like if you stick with the 325e ECU), then you probably won't need the 325i valve springs.

I agree with the street port thing. I hear polishing doesn't get you too much on the street while porting always will. Like I said, I'd go with porting the head to the same specs as the 325i and running 325i intake and exhaust valves. This should get you a LOT more airflow when used in conjunction with a 325i throttle body.

So, if you stick with the 325e computer, don't worry about the 325i valve springs, and do NOT run 325i or Mustang injectors.

If you go with the 325i wiring harness, you can use the 325i computer, run the 325i valve springs, and run better Mustang injectors.

Hope this helps!!

And BTW, for the part number for the Mustang injectors, check these guys:

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_Sets.asp

It looks to me like you would want the green injector under the "Design III" section. Should be the 2nd row of injectors on that page. That's a 19lb setup and is high impedance.
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Old 01-21-2003, 05:41 PM   #9
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wow!!!!!!!!!!

Brad,

thanks so much for the food for thought. it appears you are suggesting (in simplified terms) running a 325i top end with a 325e bottom. I have most of the parts required, because the car is actually an 325is with a blown engine. the only reason I am putting in the eta engine is because I got basically for free. I will try and do the mods you are suggesting. Two questions: the cam I have is an performance eta (can't change that) so is it still worth change springs and values, and I heard 19lb injectors might be a little excessive they suggested 17lb. what do you think.

thanks again

paul
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Old 01-21-2003, 06:48 PM   #10
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Re: wow!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by 3 Series Freak
Brad,

thanks so much for the food for thought. it appears you are suggesting (in simplified terms) running a 325i top end with a 325e bottom. I have most of the parts required, because the car is actually an 325is with a blown engine. the only reason I am putting in the eta engine is because I got basically for free. I will try and do the mods you are suggesting. Two questions: the cam I have is an performance eta (can't change that) so is it still worth change springs and values, and I heard 19lb injectors might be a little excessive they suggested 17lb. what do you think.

thanks again

paul

325i top end on 325e bottom end, basically yes. But, if you run the actual 325i head on the 325e bottom end, you'll have very, very low compression. Be sure to just do the cam and springs and have the eta head drilled for the extra 3 oil journals on the 325i cam.

As for the performance eta cam, I would have to see numbers to compare it to the 325i cam. If it's basically a 325i cam, then you can still run the 325i engine management stuff and have the higher redline. However, if they made that cam purposely for the eta, then it's probably not guaranteed to be safe above about 5250 RPM (the redline of the average chipped eta engine).

I personally would suggest going with the 325i parts and selling that cam. You might can get a lot of cash for it on eBay. That's my personal preference, though.

As for using 17lb instead of 19lb injectors, I say go for it if they suggested using 17lbs. I only said 19lbs because I don't know the flow rate of stock 325i or 325e injectors. They may be around 14lb, in which case 17lb would be fine. If they were more like 16lb, then you would definitely want to go with some 19s.

Is there any way you can get me some info on that eta cam? I'm curious about it. Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2003, 09:29 PM   #11
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Re: Cam

Hey Brad,

here are the specs

Valve clearance Inlet: 0.25 mm Exhaust: 0.25 mm
Valve Lift Inlet: 10.50 mm Exhaust: 10.50 mm
Rocker arm ratio: 1.5/1
Cam Lift Inlet: 7.00 mm Exhaust: 7.00 mm
Valve Timing: 272 degrees

I was talking with Dave Motronix, he said the head would fit but I would lose torque. Now if I ran with your setup (either performance cam or "i" cam) would I get torque and top end? What do you think?

thanks

paul
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Old 01-21-2003, 09:50 PM   #12
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Re: Re: Cam

Quote:
Originally posted by 3 Series Freak
Hey Brad,

here are the specs

Valve clearance Inlet: 0.25 mm Exhaust: 0.25 mm
Valve Lift Inlet: 10.50 mm Exhaust: 10.50 mm
Rocker arm ratio: 1.5/1
Cam Lift Inlet: 7.00 mm Exhaust: 7.00 mm
Valve Timing: 272 degrees

I was talking with Dave Motronix, he said the head would fit but I would lose torque. Now if I ran with your setup (either performance cam or "i" cam) would I get torque and top end? What do you think?

thanks

paul

Thanks for the specs. I'm gonna ask someone about them and see how it compares to a 325i cam.

I've talked to someone that took a stock '86 325e and put the 325i cam in it and drilled the holes. I don't think he used the 325i valve springs since he didn't raise the redline. He says there is NO loss in low end torque, but the thing just SCREAMS from 3k to redline. With a custom chip to optimize the fuel and ignition maps and to raise the redline, that would be a hell of a 325e with just those modifications.

The good thing about changing over to a 325i wiring harness and ECU is that you can then get a 325i performance chip or whatever. Plug and play once you do the wiring harness swap. Taht should net you even more power.
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Old 01-21-2003, 10:05 PM   #13
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SOUNDS PERFECT!!!!!!

Hey Brad,

I think you just hit the jackpot!!! LOL That's what I want!!!! High rev's and torque!! So I take the eta head, drill the oil journal holes. Port the head for the bigger values. Add the 325i valves and springs. The 325i cam (maybe the performance eta cam depending on the numbers). Use the 325i wiring and computer. Run the M30 AFM (could you elaborate on this part, sorry I am not that famillar) and chip it. Sounds about right?

Thanks

Paul
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Old 01-21-2003, 10:28 PM   #14
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Re: SOUNDS PERFECT!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by 3 Series Freak
Hey Brad,

I think you just hit the jackpot!!! LOL That's what I want!!!! High rev's and torque!! So I take the eta head, drill the oil journal holes. Port the head for the bigger values. Add the 325i valves and springs. The 325i cam (maybe the performance eta cam depending on the numbers). Use the 325i wiring and computer. Run the M30 AFM (could you elaborate on this part, sorry I am not that famillar) and chip it. Sounds about right?

Thanks

Paul


Paul,

I have no experience with head work, but I've researched plenty of this stuff to know what is the better choice. So, I can't tell you whether a machine shop would know how to drill the extra 3 holes just by looking at the eta head and the 325i cam or not. If you can get ahold of one, I would suggest finding a 325i head and sending that to the machine shop as a template. They can use the 325i head as a template to drill the extra 3 holes for your head.

So anyway: 325i cam, 325i valve springs, extra 3 holes in the head, port head for the 325i valves, 325i wiring harness, ECU, and injectors, and a 535i AFM.

I've asked some people if that Cat Cams cam will be safe at 325i RPMs. This way, we can decide if you should just stick with the 325i cam or if running that cam will be a good idea.

As for the AFM swap, check out this site:

http://www.davelength.net/car/bigsix.html

Basically, you have to remove the circuit board from both AFMs and put your current AFM's circuit board in the bigger AFM. Then, you'll need to get a cone filter and build a heat shield at the same time. Also, you need to find someone to make you a custom tube that connects the new AFM to the throttle body. All of the info is on that site.

I tried to do the AFM swap, but by the time I got the circuit board off the new AFM, I had torn up the AFM beyond repair. The worst $90 I ever spent!!

I would suggest using a power drill and putting all your weight on each screw while undoing the screw with the power drill. This should get you the torque you need to remove each circuit board screw.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-21-2003, 10:45 PM   #15
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wow!!!

With regards to the head, the good news is I have both heads, thought the "i" is damaged becasue of is broken timing belt. However I hope the machine shop could still use it as a template. Now with the values would you suggest a multi angle cut (possibly 3 to5). And should I go with after market valves (stainless) or stock. Same goes with springs?? Wow! So many possibilities and so little money LOL !!!!

thanks

paul
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