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Old 03-19-2019, 09:14 PM   #1
Zorro
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Exclamation ABS troubles - Please help



2002 BMW 530i - I get a "thump" sound, then brake pedal goes soft, but recovers. After the "thump" sound it sounds like a small grinding motor. The breaks pads are in good shape and wearing down evenly. The problem happens now and then and can't have it replicated at will. I've been driving the car with the triangle, breaks and ABS warning (ambar) lights ON for one whole year, but in the last two weeks my partner got two scares and she is panicking. Occasionally, the warning lights disappear for short periods of time when just starting the car, which makes me hope for a miracle, but they all come back, sometimes after restarting it. I took car to garage but the mechanic could not find physical signs of damage. He road tested it and ran it at high and low speeds with his diagnostic tool ON. His tool reported all wheels running at the same RPMs. Only one pressure number goes from lets say 500 to 4,000 and back. However, mechanic does not have the software to go further and pin-point the problem and I can't afford the astronomical charges at the dealer. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-20-2019, 02:09 AM   #2
SickFinga
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It's your ABS module. It is a VERY common problem on a lot of cars that use the BOSCH ABS module. You can have it rebuilt at a place that specializes in them or you can take it to a laptop repair center and ask them to resolder the wires which will cost less than half the price of a specialized place. However, in this case you will need to do some work yourself. The ABS module cover is plastic welded shut, so you will need to cut it open and then reseal it yourself with silicone.

Buying used is not recommended, unless it's a rebuilt unit. You will end up with the same problem. Another issue, is that in your case you will need to reprogram a unit to your car. Older, non DSC unit, do not require programming and can just be swapped between cars.

Go on ebay, search for "BMW Scanner 1.4". It's a $20 scanner that can scan all modules in your car and can do programing of the modules.

P.S. You can remove the module and drive the car while it's being repaired. Obviously, you won't have the ABS and DSC and the lights will be on all the time.
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:38 PM   #3
Zorro
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Thank you note

Thank you SickFinga. I was suspecting your view for what I've been reading and I found some shops on this side of the woods. BBA Reman in Concord, Ontario and XeModex in Mississauga. However, the module's casing does not have a label. The casing has a "BOSCH" marking on the top, but I don't see any numbers, even after I removed the connector. However, the metal part to which it is attached, I believe called the pump, has a similar number to what I've been reading: It is 0265 225 005 on the left side and 34 51-6 758 969 on the other side. These numbers may be related to the metal part only, but could provide clue as to what the actual module number is. Maybe after taking it off a number can be seen. And I agree with your suspicion that all it may need is a little bit of soldering and the repair is highly over-priced. If they can not come up with a reasonable price, I may go and open it myself. Am I correct in my recently learned view that this module functions for both, ASC and DSC? . I am starting to move with more confidence. Thanks again.
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Old 03-20-2019, 03:49 PM   #4
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If you have equipment to solder tiny things and steady hands, you can do the repair yourself. However, the wires inside the unit are hair thin (not an exaggeration).

This is how thin those wires are
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:55 AM   #5
Zorro
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Thanks for the picture. Nice to know how it is inside. I guess those little pieces in the middle were at certain time connected to the longer bars and with the heat they broke. There appears to be jelly encasing them or it is the blurriness of the picture. Do you know if there any capacitors or resistors visible which could need to be tested and/or replaced. Out of curiosity I would try to do it myself, for sure, but I have small child that needs attention, so I have to think it over. I can only do things when he goes to school. I thought of covering the metal part with tape after removing the module. If it is a pump, then it should be protected from dust going in, don't you think? I haven't heard anyone mention it, only that one can still drive the car. If you know, it would be greatly appreciated if you let me know. Thanks, again.
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Old 03-21-2019, 08:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorro View Post
Thanks for the picture. Nice to know how it is inside. I guess those little pieces in the middle were at certain time connected to the longer bars and with the heat they broke. There appears to be jelly encasing them or it is the blurriness of the picture. Do you know if there any capacitors or resistors visible which could need to be tested and/or replaced. Out of curiosity I would try to do it myself, for sure, but I have small child that needs attention, so I have to think it over. I can only do things when he goes to school. I thought of covering the metal part with tape after removing the module. If it is a pump, then it should be protected from dust going in, don't you think? I haven't heard anyone mention it, only that one can still drive the car. If you know, it would be greatly appreciated if you let me know. Thanks, again.
One your remove the module, you will have like 10 solenoid sticking out. Putting tape of them is not going to be easy. You get wrap a bag around the unit for extra protection.



I don't know about if capacitors fail on them. I've dealt with 3 different units and every time it were those damn thin wires.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:44 AM   #7
Zorro
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Thanks for the reply. I'll go for wrapping the whole thing with a plastic bag and sealing it with tape even though I now see there are no holes for dust to go in, and I'll try not to move it for further protection. I already have a scanner that will reset the car's computer in case I have to move it and get the "check engine" light ON. Thanks, I got more information than I was expecting.
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