Tom's 2000 750iL Project

[WAB]

Hi Tom

Here's a suggestion for your cross-ram intake manifolds.

If you brush them thoroughly with a brass wire brush you will get a rather nice patina. What I then did was use fine wet-dry on a flat pad and polished up the raised high-lights to a mirror finish. Everyone down under that see's mine wants to know how I got such a nice look without painting or anodizing.

[tominizer]

Thanks for that link. We have a few good parts suppliers up here in Toronto, including Bimmer Heaven that I've used often but mainly for used parts. New is a whole other kettle of fish.

On the manifolds, yeah I've taken a very stiff plastic wiire wheel to it and it's working nicely. Although I have something a bit different in mind for the final finish. Stay tuned.......... and it's definitely not CHROME. I hate chrome.

M-Parallels should be back this coming week from being refinshed. Wanted a polished lip but that wasn't going to happen as trying to keep this all within a "reasonable" budget and that wasn't in the cards at this time. I saw a set done like that last minute and was like "oh...... I like that !!"

[WAB]

The 18 x 9 e34 M5 rears I fitted to the front were not lip polished as per the OEM e38 option MPar's.

To rectify this, I had all the rims (front and rear) diamond cut.They do not look the same as the factory polished lip which has a flat satin finish. The diamond cut gives them a unique finish.

I am really happy with the front fit, it looks good, improves handling significantly and fills the wheel arch out. I run 275 rears which don't quite fill out the wheel arch as nice as the fronts. I have a set of TUV approved 8mm spacers coming from Schmeidmann then i will be perfectly happy with the stance.

If your coil springs are black and have white paint brush marks on them, they are OEM sport springs. Sport springs sit the car down just a little over stock and have a higher spring rate. The sport pack was quite a rare option for the 750iL. Not only did you get the springs, but in the Aus market cars you also got the 3.15 diff, which makes them rather quick. As i said earlier, over 80 mph my 750iL is quicker than my e36 M3 euro by a quite noticeable amount.

Some of the options available for Aus market cars were unique. You could option them up with pretty much any combination desired. You definitely paid for doing that. The new purchase price for my particular 750iL in 1998 was $338,000 AUD

With the right ET, it is possible to go as big as 285 rears with no spacer, camber adjustment or fender lip rolling. Personally I think 285 is just too big for a non lowered car, 265/275 is nice. With 275 rears and 265 fronts the rolling radius is pretty close to optimum and you won't get the TC warning light coming on.

You could spin your MPar's up on a balancer and then polish the lip with wet-n-dry?

[tominizer]

That e34 wheel up front looks really good. I'm going to X5 wheels probably next summer that I have already restored and are sitting in the garage with a significant spacer. Spacer bolts up to the hub and then the wheel bolts to the spacer. Only way I would consider doing such. Not for everyone I understand but it's the look I'm going for.

I will have to check the springs for that. Interesting. 750il's that were imported into Asia also got that same rear end diff. I've heard it gives the car a bit more jump for sure. I was following a German fella on one of the forums that imported one from Dubai...... a silver one that he restored. It had that same rear end your's has as I believe his car was originally from Japan. I'm just looking forward to no check engine light on mine and seeing what this thing is like when tuned properly back to stock .........and running right !!

For tires and my stock ride height, the 285 gives the closest diameter to stock. It's almost right on the money according to the calculator. I had 275's before and it looks like there is easily room for that extra 1 cm. So we will see. CAr should be done within the next 2 weeks and my wallet a LOT lighter.

[WAB]

Be careful of the king pin angle when playing with wheel offsets. Go to far with a moderate width wheel tire combo and it will have bad effects on the car.

For example, spacing out an OEM 8" 245 tire/rim combo to fill the guards is not a good idea. The same goes for using reduced ET non OEM fitment moderate/narrow wheel/tire combo's to achieve the same.

With a wide tire/rim combo the effect of decreased ET is offset by -ve camber placing more load on the inboard edge of the tire. With a wide rim/tire combo the inside/inboard edge of the tire is usually further inboard than a stock set-up.

Because of this I discovered that the steering load reduced going from 245 fronts to 265 fronts. This will also apply to suspension joint loading. I can report that after 10,000 kms the wear patterns on the tire's are spot-on and there is zero suspension play.

In my opinion, if you are going to use spacers on the front axles, for a great deal of extra security hub extenders are definitely the go. For rear axle, if they are TUV approved, concentric hub type, and the right length bolt is used, they are very secure.

I have seen reports from Germany about counter bolted thick spacers failing. I personally prefer having longer high tensile steel bolts because they torque down on the axle flange which is of course steel. The only issue then is making sure the wheel goes on concentrically. Hub extenders on the front, and if used, concentric TUV approved spacers on the rear will make for a very secure fitment.

If you look up wheel spacers on the Shmiedmann site, you can see what spacers have TUV approval and which do not. The way I see it, if it meets the European Union's transport regulations, its good enough for me.

I have hub extenders from Turner on my M3 and can report that they are high grade billet alloy and are a quite tight fit. You can get hub extenders here:-

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...xtenders-pair/

Schmiedmann site here:-

https://www.schmiedmann.com/

[WAB]

On the 3.15 diff, it increases torque at the rear by 11% over the 2.82. Add to that another significant increase if you go MSD coils and it makes the 750iL very lively indeed. Open road passing acceleration is a real blast! I have seen the torque from my car on a chassis dyno and it is flat right through the rev range and massive.

When passing a road train, starting at 100 kph, a terminal speed of 180 - 190 kph is normal. It really flies, and as said, it is definitely quicker than my M3. My m3 will gain a bit on the 750 to about 120 kph, after that it is all over.

My M3 weighs in at 1520 kg's, also runs 3.15, and puts down about 315 - 320 FW hp. So it is very quick for a mid nineties car.

[WAB]

Hi Tom

I thought you me be interested in a little upgrade I am currently working on.

The upgrade is to do with the headlights. I am retrofitting the OEM zenon's with Morrimoto D2S bi-zenon outer's, D2S zenon inners, switchback halo's in both. I have the zenon mod completed and in the frames. I have increased low beam output by 200%. Being the lows are now bi-zenons they provide "infill" when I switch to high beam (the D2S highs take a few seconds to achieve full brilliance). The flash function is not affected at all as both high and low elements respond, the lows being instantaneous switching to high

At 7m distance I have measured 2400 lumens on low and a combined output on high from each assembly of 10,000 lumens. Thats nearly a 400% improvement. The low beam inserts have ECE/US approved cut-offs and can be had in either LH or RH beam patterns.

As for the halo's, they are the brightest switchbacks you can get. To house them I have made my own brass U channels which will be silver plated. To make them is quite a challenge. They start out as thin walled rectangular brass tube. I used "cerobend" or also called "woods metal" to ensure a distortion free bend. I then milled off a short side to fashion a U channel.

The switchback led strips I obtained are very thin at 3.2mm. The ID of the U channels is 3.6. so the strips fit inside the channels on edge. The result, even prior to silver plating is spectacular. The back side light output of the led strip is reflected forward, as the U channels have a very narrow profile (4mm). the light output is very intense and defined. much more intense and defined than forward facing strips which are typically 8 - 10 mm wide.

The halo's fit inside the inner Fresnel lens. Because they a re such a thin profile, they don't mask the main reflectors.

[tominizer]

The spacers I'm using are just to bring the e53 X5 wheels to the exact same offset as the E38 wheels. Well, maybe a bit more for the "look". I've heard all kinds of issues as well while doing my research. The company I used out of France makes these for drift cars and the responses back from those that have used them was positive. Drift cars have massive loading on the suspension and wheels and thus why I headed in that direction. That doesn't mean everything will work 100% guaranteed I know. Any man made is subject to failure. My 7-series restoration is not for a daily driver or for any sort of aggressive driving. I have a Z4M for thrills !! I'm building this 7 for cruising and style. And because I believe it was the last great 7 the BMW made and I've always wanted one. It's a money pit right now and terrible on fuel given I live in the city. But that is fine.

Interesting work on the lighting. I will watch your project. Are you posting this up on any of the other forums as you progress ??

[WAB]

Hi Tom

I think many, myself included, also consider the E38 to be the pinnacle of BMW engineering excellence. They have a certain style and class about them that is both muscular and elegant. Just last weekend I took mine on a club cruise, a younger chap with a track prepared M1 wandered over and commented that the E38 was the "coolest" car he had ever seen. Quite smitten with the visual appeal that they have in spades.

The lighting build detail does not appear in any "open forum", I have posted that information on the BMW Club WA web site members only forum.

I made up the main light assembly on OEM frames that I got from Europe. That part is all prep aimed and set-up ready for installation. At 7 metres stock D2S lows are good for 1750 lumen's depending on the burner age. The stock Halogen highs using the best globes make only about 750 lumen's at about 2 kelvins color. As said, the increase in light output with the new set-up is massive. The cut-off is razor sharp and beam focus is way better. And, the 4 - 5 K Morimoto 50 watt burners are 1/2 the price of a standard Bosch or Philips burner. Light output wise they are just as good as the best offerings from the same. With a minor bit of adjustment, the high beam reflector bulb mounting can be modified to accept a D2S burner. When done the actual burner arc gap ends up correctly aligned in the reflector. The position of the burner arc gap is critical to ensure that there is very little light scatter. Light scatter is a common problem with aftermarket conversion kits because the burner is set to far back in the reflector bowl. I am using Morimoto 50 Watt ballasts (very fast ignition) with "in plug" igniters. The two ballasts per light attach where the original single ballast was located. When assembled, the light housing will look completely OEM

All of the Halo U channel frames are done but I have yet to solder on the mounting tab ears. When that is done they are off to be silver plated. I intend to utilize the halo's as both DRL's and indicators. They can get quite hot so i have obtained mini PWM controllers ($6.50 each). These i will use to clamp down on the duty cycle (run same brightness but quite a bit cooler)

I thought long and hard about how to make the halo's. In all honesty I don't think how I made the U channels, and the way the led strips are fitted has ever been done before. I am very pleased with how they have turned out. The Silver Smith, who will be doing the plating, was quite blown away with how I made the U Channels. Mocked up, they fit so well that look like they are an OEM fitment. Being of a very slim profile (4 mm) you hardly notice them when they are off.

If you want more information on how to duplicate what I have done, I can send you build, part, material and template details as well as pictures. Just send me your direct e-mail

PS: You won't get much improvement in gas mileage in stop/start around town driving. You will always pay the penalty of accelerating such a heavy car. However freeway and open road driving is a different matter. The E38 is surprisingly aerodynamically efficient. guys I know in England with 728's say that they can get them up to about 134 mph, that says a lot about how slippery they are. The long tube cross ram intake manifold promotes low rpm torque, so at normal cruise speeds, the engine is spinning right where it needs to be for best economy. I get better than 20 mpg combined and have seen as high as 27 mpg country @ 110 kph/70 mph. If I drop my cruise speed down to about 100 kph/60 mph, I can get close to 30 mpg.

[tominizer]

Update time.

Sorry but no pictures right now. Maybe later today. This past summer was all about maintenance and specifically under the hood. Everything related to the motor on the externals was refreshed. Plugs, wires, hoses, clamps, etc, etc.Crushed the wallet too. And unfortunately the power steering hose just came up now and is leaking. So needs to be replaced and I understand it's a shite donkey to get to and a pricey piece to boot. Will likely leave until the spring of 2021 as I'm preparing to put her to bed for the winter.

Finally got the E46 M3 steering wheel in with the paddle shifters and replaced the drivers side rear door small window that had delaminated. While in there I noticed that door was sounding nasty when closing and I found the culprit. The lower bolt on the window frame at the bottom of the door was loose. And that was weird as there was absolutely no sign of anyone getting into this door. Issue from the factory since new ?!?!?

M-Parellels were refinished and installed as well. Didn't spend a lot of money on the rubber as went with some cheap Chinese all seasons. The car will be stored on this rubber setup. I have other plans for the summer. And damn you COVID. Found a set of Style 32's in 20" just east of Buffalo in really nice shape. I would have driven there IMMEDIATELY as those are what I ultimately want on this car. And don't feel safe about sending money to strangers when you can't do a follow up visit in case something goes sideways. So that wasn't an option. Oh well. Just have to sit tight for now.


Also was wondering about my front two seats. There are definitely NOT the higher end seats. But finding a set in carmel I don't know if it even exists ??! Maybe out of an E39??? Anyone have any thoughts on this ? Would be really sweet to have a nicer set of seat in here. Was also thinking of finding a set in light beige or one of the other colors and dying them to match. So that could be an option too.

Anyways, that's it for now. Been driving her a fair bit and it's pretty sweet. Almost as good as my heavily modified X5 diesel. Although with where I want to go with this 7, it just may push that X5 off the top of the post !!

[tominizer]

***Sept 2021 Update***

Re-doing from the belt line up .........all the pillars and the roof panel as the Alcantera fell down. The glue let go.
Also decided to use a more modern black headliner material used on current BMW's. And this time the right glue.

The new bottom 1/3 of the front two door panels have been completed and installed. So now the doors are setup for
full 3-way speaker system as I added panels for 6.5". Pretty happy with how it turned out although took about 3 build
iterations to get it to what I wanted it to be as I was just not happy with the look. So I've wired up a 3-ways Focal set
now in the doors. Original door panels have been taken off and stored as I used a replacement set off another car. They
needed to be cut into and I didn't want to ruin the originals. All the trim was transferred however.

Still working on the trunk over-haul. 12" sub has been installed in the drivers rear corner. Having second thoughts on the
amp rack. I think I'm going to tuck the amp rack under the back deck instead of on the floor on a sliders. This is in case I
one day decide to go to air ride, so I will need the floor space. Keeping the spare in the trunk is important to me as I want to be
able to use the vehicle to travel.

Lemon slice front corners are in. Makes a significant difference cosmetically

Front Alpina lip installed off Ebay. Was really surprised as the fitment is actually quite good.

Two rust free front doors installed and painted which is a big deal for me. I hate rot. So this is one of the most significant
changes to this car for me.

Still to come.........
The gauge cluster is being swapped over to X5 4.8i M cluster........ hopefully. Still working on that one with someone.
And the paddle shift wires still need to be connected to the tranny.


Pictures on my phone. Haven't uploaded yet.

[WAB]

Headliners and upper A,B & C panel trim does let go on E38's. Not sure about some of the special option trims, but with the velour type's its the foam backing that disintegrates.

I have just been through that repair exercise myself, it is a real PITA!

What discovered was that if you soak the old material in a bucket filled with a laundry soap solution, almost all of the residue foam backing will dissolve. After that just run the velour material through the washing machine and it comes out spotlessly clean.

Replacement material with foam backing will fail the same way given time.

What I did was purchase 1/16" thick felt, glued that on the trim panels and headliner panel and then re-glued down the original velour. It can also be built up or trimmed down as required, which is necessary for the edges of the pillar panels.

It worked a charm. feels almost the same as having foam backing, is as smooth and even as OEM, and the felt will not rot. The felt can be glued down using a marine two pack liquid epoxy resin.

To glue the velour to the felt, if you do some research there are really good contact glues to be had such as marine type HH-66 that work really well and are very resilient to aging, water etc.

Using the old material is no problem, it does not shrink and retains its stretch capability.