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Old 03-08-2006, 11:52 PM   #1
Axxe
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Rebuilt Front Calipers



Anyone need a pair? I'll have a pair when I remove the units currently on my car, and since I ordered one rebuild kit too many, I can either include the kit or repaint/rebuild the calipers for you (for a bit extra). I'll also have a pair of rear non-rebuilt calipers.

Girling calipers for the front, ATE's in the back.
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:45 AM   #2
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what does rebuilding involve?

- parts?
- benefits?
- labour cost?

i will probably need to freshen mines up soon, how much you charge?

at what point calipers just need to be replaced?
(i know, too many questions, can you fill us all in?)
Thanks
Alex
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:57 AM   #3
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I'm rebuilding mine, since I figured that they are pushing 20 years old and have never been serviced, and I track my car so it's a good investment.

Rebuilding the calipers allows them to perform to their full capabilies, coupled with new flex lines and fluid.

Basically it requires a seal rebuild kit, and a guide pin kit. The guides in the front are metal, and rarely need replacement, while the guides in the back are rubber, and like anything rubber, they deteriorate over time.

I was thinking of cleaning up the calipers with a wire brush, painting them with VHT Silver (or any colour as requested) caliper paint, rebuild them with new seels, and charging around $35 + core for front pair, and $45 + core for rear pair (they need new rubber bushings). Core would be $100 for all 4, refundable when I get your old calipers.
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxe
Basically it requires a seal rebuild kit, and a guide pin kit. The guides in the front are metal, and rarely need replacement, while the guides in the back are rubber, and like anything rubber, they deteriorate over time.
Sounds good, just remember that this only applies to GIRLING calipers in the front. People with ATE calipers in the front have the same as the rear.
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:52 PM   #5
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See if you can sand blast them instead of wirebrusing. I sandblasted mine and they came up really well.

Here is a pic of them sandblasted and ready for priming and painting.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Calipers S Blasted.JPG (96.1 KB, 134 views)
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:55 PM   #6
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Here is a pic of them painted before the rebuild kit was installed. It's worth the effort to sandblast them, prime with self etching primer and spray paint with a good brand caliper paint.
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File Type: jpg Painted calipers2.JPG (70.0 KB, 153 views)
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Old 03-09-2006, 01:09 PM   #7
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I heard that there is a place somewhere close to Charlie that sandblasts, rebuilds and powdercoats calipers for $60 a caliper. A person who did them there said the result was great, but still, spending $240+tax just for that is kindof steep!

So striker, don't you think you would need 5lug swap for your turbo on the e30? You think stock brakes with better pads will do?

Alex
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Old 03-09-2006, 01:57 PM   #8
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Alex, powder coating is nice but I think overkill for calipers, not bashing anyone’s service or preference.

You can get someone to sandblast them for you at a fair price, self etching primer is about $10 a can and so is good heat resistant caliper paint. So for about $ 20 in paint and primer, maybe $ 40-50 for blasting they should come up nicely under $ 100

Axxe is asking a reasonable price for what he described as well.

My rebuilt stock calipers, Brembo gas slotted rotors and racing pads should stop my turbocharged M30 E30 fairly well. I will also rebuild the master and replace ALL the brake lines, replacing the rubber ones with stainless steel braided ones.

I am toying with the idea of going with a bigger brake master from the 750il but concerned about the smaller brake threshold and added sensitivity.
So I will use the stock rebuilt master and take it from there.

The stock brakes work really well for a performance e30, cooling is the factor that really determines how the brakes hold up. I will be fabricating flexible separate airdams for my brakes.

My ultimate goal is to get around 450 RWHP from the fully modded and turbocharged M30. I will tune in increments to see how things hold up.
The 4 lugs should stand up to the torque and I will only consider the swap if my traction requires more tire width. I will be using 225's Z rated rubber.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:02 PM   #9
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I love how none of you stupid shits actually disassembled the calipers to sand blast and paint them. Getting all that grit and paint all over the seals and pistons.

Halfass, and a accident waiting to happen.

If you are going to do it do it RIGHT.

Axxe: I wouldn't do it, because of the liability involved.

Both shops I've worked at refused to rebuilt calipers for that reason. They would only install new reman units.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:07 PM   #10
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450 WHP with 225's and stock brakes sounds pretty sketchy to me. I'm running stock power and wouldn't mind more braking capability. I could sand blast them, and chrome them too, but what is the point? You cannot tell the difference through the wheel. Not only that, but I don't like sandblasting at all, I don't have a chamber I can use so the media gets everywhere.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan
I love how none of you stupid shits actually disassembled the calipers to sand blast and paint them. Getting all that grit and paint all over the seals and pistons.

Halfass, and a accident waiting to happen.

If you are going to do it do it RIGHT.

Axxe: I wouldn't do it, because of the liability involved.

Both shops I've worked at refused to rebuilt calipers for that reason. They would only install new reman units.

I love how only one person posted pictures, yet you use "shits" in a plural form. I clean and paint the calipers with the old shit in it, and then rebuild them. What do you do? Dissassemble them and then sand blast the INSIDE BORE? That's halfass to the max, the inside bore should only be honed.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan
I love how none of you stupid shits actually disassembled the calipers to sand blast and paint them. Getting all that grit and paint all over the seals and pistons.

Halfass, and a accident waiting to happen.

If you are going to do it do it RIGHT.

Axxe: I wouldn't do it, because of the liability involved.

Both shops I've worked at refused to rebuilt calipers for that reason. They would only install new reman units.

Jordon read my post shit head and see where I said

"Here is a pic of them painted before the rebuild kit was installed It's worth the effort to sandblast them, prime with self etching primer and spray paint with a good brand caliper paint".

Some of us a bit smart like you

You should know me by now Monkey.

BTW, I will need some info from you and no not paying for it Will email you.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxe
450 WHP with 225's and stock brakes sounds pretty sketchy to me. I'm running stock power and wouldn't mind more braking capability. I could sand blast them, and chrome them too, but what is the point? You cannot tell the difference through the wheel. Not only that, but I don't like sandblasting at all, I don't have a chamber I can use so the media gets everywhere.
Axxo,

There are e30's in Sweden turbocharged 500hp and running on 4 lug IX 15" BBS wheels, stoping on a dime using stock brake calipers and performance rotors and pads.

If you are running stock power and need more brakes, either something is wrong with your brakes or you need to go to a gym Not for weight saving but to tone your leg muscles.

Stock e30 brakes are more than enough for that car.
BMW brakes are solid brakes, don't under estimate them.
I have raced a few cars and find that the e30 brakes are well balanced and just the right pressures and height for heel and toe braking.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:34 PM   #14
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You assume I'm a weekling. You assume wrong

500hp, 225's, continuous road course usage? If that is adequate, they are hardly pushing the car. Drag, yes, I can understand stock brakes, but I seriously doubt the stock brakes ability to perform consistently with 3 x the amount of power they were designed for.
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Old 03-09-2006, 02:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxe
You assume I'm a weekling. You assume wrong

500hp, 225's, continuous road course usage? If that is adequate, they are hardly pushing the car. Drag, yes, I can understand stock brakes, but I seriously doubt the stock brakes ability to perform consistently with 3 x the amount of power they were designed for.
Oh ok Hulk, you are not a weakling then

I have the vid somewhere kicking around and when I find it I will host it on my website for you. The guy was filling the clock in seconds with that car and braking right into tight turns.

You have to remember that the hydraulic aspect of the braking components work relative to the force being applied, so no question there.
What makes a huge difference are the rotors, pads and most importantly COOLING which lots of people neglect when building a performance car.

You can have the world best brake rotors, pads and calipers, but heat them up, boil the fluid and prepare to go go to hell

I also stated that I will be "turning" up my HP in increments to see how things hold up, so don't be like Jordon, read posts entirely
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