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Old 04-06-2007, 05:29 PM   #1
oldskool3
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removing entire subframe

Hey guys I was trying to replace my rear lines with SS lines and all of the lines are completely rusted to shit and while trying to remove one I cracked a line and it is now leaking. Anyways my question is has anyone removed the entire rear sub-frame all in one piece with trailing arms and everything. If so how heavy was it and how much of a pain in the ass was it.

I would like to replace all of the brake lines in the rear of the car and feel it would be an even bigger pain to do it while the subframe remains in the car.

I have removed one before but the car was sitting on it's side so it's not really a good judge of how hard it will be while laying on my back. Thanks

Jesse
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Old 04-06-2007, 05:37 PM   #2
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I removed the rear subframe off my old e36 all at once. It was ****in heavy. The car was on a hoist but i used a engine lift to lower the thing. I would imagine the E30 one would be just as heavy if not heavier. Its a 2 person job for sure!
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Old 04-06-2007, 05:38 PM   #3
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Depends how much you remove. The subframe itself and the A arms weigh nothing. That changes if you leave the diff and brakes attached.
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Old 04-06-2007, 08:13 PM   #4
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i would remove the diff/ brakes seperately and than remove the whole thing. I think I found away around it. I only need acces to the T above the rear diff. I am thinking I may remove it anyways to clean it up and Por15 the whole thing plus change the trailing arm and subframe bushings.

Only problem is I can't afford the Por 15, subframe or trailing arm bushings.
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Old 04-06-2007, 10:24 PM   #5
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Also think about snagging a set of the IE camber/castor eccentric bolts for the rear trailing arms............ if you're digging in that deep.
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Old 04-07-2007, 02:31 AM   #6
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The T is $13 from the dealer. I'm in the process of re doing all the brake lines in the back, just did a patch job on the one that broke, going to do a proper job when i get the parts in.
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Old 04-07-2007, 04:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxe
The T is $13 from the dealer. I'm in the process of re doing all the brake lines in the back, just did a patch job on the one that broke, going to do a proper job when i get the parts in.
Good to know thanks Axxe. Are you running a new line for the rear to the front? I am thinking about just running a rubber line from the hard line off the t to the line running to the front so I don't have to replce the whole line. I will replace it when I do my swap and have easier access to the brake master.
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Old 04-07-2007, 04:17 PM   #8
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Do not run a flexible line unless you properly flare it and use high pressure fittings. In fact, don't use rubber lines, just flare it, use a union, and then attach the new line. This is brakes after all, it's high pressure and you don't want it to fail. I am going to run all new fuel and brake lines throughout the entire car, and bypass ABS (my abs unit is screwy).
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Old 04-07-2007, 04:24 PM   #9
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I geuss i will flare the line than instead of running new all the way to the front for the time being. I really just want to get the car on the road as I have barely gotten to put any km since the b25 swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tominizer
Also think about snagging a set of the IE camber/castor eccentric bolts for the rear trailing arms............ if you're digging in that deep.
I would love to but I can't weld and unfortunately would have no idea on how to adjust the camber/toe in properly.

thanks for the help guys
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