super easy. taking off the steering wheel helps, but isnt necessary.
1. remove panel over pedals (3 plastic screw things + 1 screw under steering column)
2. reach behind the back of the trim piece right over top of the steering column and unscrew the 2 BIG knurled knobs (one on each side) holding it on, then gently wiggle it out/off
3. remove 4(?) screws at top and bottom of trim piece ontop of cluster
4. remove the rest of the screws holding the cluster in (think there's 4 more)
5. GENTLY tilt the cluster forward (grab the little 'ears' on top of it') and disconnect all the wires behind it. you have to pull up (with a screwdriver) the center tab of the plugs then they pull out.
6. carefully pull the cluster out. it really helps if the wheel is off or you can fit it through the spokes at this point.
7. the bulbs for the speedo+tach are inside the cluster, i think you have to take out 8 screws to get _that_ apart. once you get it apart (BE CAREFUL not to damage the gauges!!) you can see easily the 2 bulbs inside.
once its apart, you might as well check the SI board for any signs of busted batteries/corrosion. this can lead to serious problems later on.
(all these steps are from memory, but i've done this 100 times, fixing my gauges
pretty sure its right)