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Old 01-17-2004, 04:55 PM   #16
Autotechnica
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Just another note. When/if you reweld the rear sub-frame, there are custom racing plates you could (should) have welded ontop for extra reinforcement. It's actually an improvement and much stiffer. I had these welded into my '92 318 and the rear end was very very stiff, you have to watch out in the rain though, it's very easy to spin out. On dry road the hanlding is amazing.

I can give the number of a place that makes these plates or you can purchase them from Turner Motor Sports. They are relatively cheap, only $40 each I believe.

Having someone who can weld it for you is a plus. If you have a hoist you should be able to remove everything yourself within a day.

Good luck,

Bryan
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Old 01-17-2004, 05:48 PM   #17
E36pilot
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Yeah dude, I'll take the number. Not 100% certain this is what the problem is, but it sure sounds like it. Do you have a link displaying these plates? I have access to 100 ton hoists as well as certified welders FREE of charge. In fact I have access to ANY amount of steel I need. 80 bux is cheap, but if it's simply just a plate with the hole locations already called out I can make them myself. # and or link would be appreciated!

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Old 01-19-2004, 02:52 AM   #18
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Well I decided to drive it up to the BMW dealer to have it checked out and guess what? On the way up there I heard a loud noise and then it passed, a short time later it was done. Whatever I did is now complete, whenever I accelerate the U joint rises and ends up rubbing against the body of the car. I was about 7 miles from my destination so I feathered it there, starting off in second and thifting to third, it appears under load this knuckle rises and hits the body, also when I placed the E36 into reverse..NO NOISE. Now since the drive shaft is spinning the opposite direction it would then fire down under load right? Anyhow I think itwas the subframe, hope this is considered drivetrain. A neat side to the story, my guy has an 02 330 that I trucked home in and on top of that he is storing a friends 03 M3 in the garage. This M3 even had the SMG tranny, interesting setup...first one I've ever seen up close. CYA!
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Old 01-19-2004, 04:54 AM   #19
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Damn that sucks. Atleast you're not letting it get you down much. Keep us informed about the actual findings and cost of repair.
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Old 01-19-2004, 09:26 AM   #20
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Check your rear shock mounts if they're worn/torn, your rear toe arm bushings for a lot of side to side play, and/or see if the subframe bushings are tight or worn.

The 98 M3 already had reinforcement plate welded in to the chassis at the subframe mounts from factory did it not?
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:23 PM   #21
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If it were the rear subframe that was cracked would he not hear the same "thump" while going over bumps?
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Old 01-19-2004, 01:51 PM   #22
E36pilot
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it's not necessarily from going over bumps, just normal driving. I mean anytime I apply pressure to the driveshaft (gas) then it's as if the shaft rises up and actually rubs on the body of the car. I had to go from first to third and go real gradual on the gas just to get it to the dealership.....we shall see. I' m driving my boosted Integra right now, so this is why I am not constantly complaining....it's not so bad::

Wilwood big brake kit (front)
Brembos/ ECB Greenstuff (rear)
B16A boosted
18x7.5 Konig Theory wheels
Nuespeed springs
Tokiko struts
full leather
momo Jet wheel
the list gos on....................I've gone "ricey" for the winter

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Old 01-21-2004, 01:07 AM   #23
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OK the verdict is in!!!!!!! this cat over at International Autos in Milwaukee says I broke off the bolts that hold the diff......clean! I suppose that is MUCH better than the subframe. They are going to drill out the material left in the frame and re insert the new bolts for a mere $200.00. Hes says $95.00 an hour at 1.5 hours plus parts. Well there we have it, it was the CV touching the body. I aksed the guy "am I just driving it to hard", he responded with, "isn't that why you bought an M3". I was like yeah, to drive not to bring in to you guys....LOL CYA!
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:33 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by E36pilot
OK the verdict is in!!!!!!! this cat over at International Autos in Milwaukee says I broke off the bolts that hold the diff......clean! I suppose that is MUCH better than the subframe. They are going to drill out the material left in the frame and re insert the new bolts for a mere $200.00. Hes says $95.00 an hour at 1.5 hours plus parts. Well there we have it, it was the CV touching the body. I aksed the guy "am I just driving it to hard", he responded with, "isn't that why you bought an M3". I was like yeah, to drive not to bring in to you guys....LOL CYA!
Actually that does mean your "sub-frame" is cracked. The carrier mounts are attached to your sub-frame which hold your differential. When the carrier mounts break apart from your sub-frame the only thing holding it are 3 bolts (as I mentioned in my previous posts). If your bolts broke off as well, that means you have sub-frame damage. Your lucky you didn't spin out, if the bolt breaks off that's already the later stages of a cracked sub-frame.

Bryan
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Old 01-21-2004, 03:05 AM   #25
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So whats the deal then with regards to repair? Sounds like they are just replacing the bolts when in reality they need to fix the subframe and the bolts as well? My Bently book just doesn't touch on the mounting to the sub frame so I'm having a tuff time visioning what exactly is going on. I am new to rear wheel drive as I understand other models work this way as well (Infinity/Lexus etc). Thanks for the feedback!

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Old 01-24-2004, 03:15 AM   #26
E36pilot
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And to top it off!!!!!!!!!! The mechanic had the guy on the phone mention to me that this was NOT the first time this has happened on my ride. Cmon, how the hell are you suppose to know this happened? I feel like the guy for not telling me, but it had two owners so who knows which it was.....besides they are not obligated to tell me anyhow, but would have been nice to know. CYA!
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