Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > maXimum Tech > 3 Series > E46 (1998 - 2005)
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 04-06-2014, 05:04 PM   #1
BADRAT
badratart.com
 
BADRAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 95
Lightbulb Hood Release Cable DIY Help

hey guys,
I was having trouble with my hood staying down, upon further investigation i noticed my hood release cable has started to rust. as preventative maintenance i want to get this replaced before the cable has the opportunity to snap (that could get ugly ). I already have the two bowden cables (shown in green) - one between the two latches (latches shown in red) and the other that runs up the drivers side of the engine bay.

I was hoping that the replacement would be simple, but it isn't looking that way. I'm actually not too sure how to go about doing this. the middle cable seems to run under the front bay support, with tons of intake plastic in the way and between the radiator. has anyone done this before? any advice?

id hate to remove the bumper and all the front intake components, or even the radiator to find out there was a simpler way.

thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screen-Shot-2014-04-06-at-4.52.38-PM.jpg (148.2 KB, 55 views)
__________________

Last edited by BADRAT; 04-06-2014 at 05:07 PM.
BADRAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 06:58 PM   #2
Ceeker
Parts hoarding partner...
 
Ceeker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,373
lube the shit out of the latches..9/10 it isn't the cable the latches start to seize and the cables start stretching resulting in cable failure. Spray lube and move the handle back and forth until you feel no resistance on the cables.
__________________

I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
Ceeker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 07:02 PM   #3
BADRAT
badratart.com
 
BADRAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 95
yeah I've cleaned them up quite a bit. though i can see the cable rusting, the nylon is cracked and bloated with it
__________________
BADRAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 06:31 AM   #4
cheapthrills
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 103
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...e-cable-breaks

Try the steps I listed there, and let me know if you still have questions. It's a pain, but you don't need to pull the bumper, just the intake ram air above the grille nostrils.
__________________
cheapthrills is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 07:40 PM   #5
BADRAT
badratart.com
 
BADRAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 95
I'm almost 100% sure my car doesn't have those two screws shown in blue. if i did i would have attempted that (2000 323i problems?) would you say the wiggle room came from removing the fender bolts?
__________________
BADRAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 07:29 AM   #6
cheapthrills
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 103
Looking at RealOEM, both our cars have the same part numbers listed for these parts: 51 71 8 211 467 for the plastic piece, and 51 71 7 111 691 for the radiator support, so I'm pretty sure you should have them.

Note that I didn't loosen the fenders, rather the bolts between the radiator support and the fenders. 3 of these 4 bolts can be seen in the picture you posted above.

You definitely have to bend the plastic guard to wrestle it out. I didn't break mine, but I wouldn't have cared if I did. I did not reinstall it.
__________________
cheapthrills is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2014, 06:59 PM   #7
BADRAT
badratart.com
 
BADRAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 95
Thank you very much cheapthrills. Tackled this beast today and was successfull!

The screws did exist and made quite a difference when removed. I also unbolted the radiator support and the two top nuts to the aux fan for more wiggle room. There was a ton of bending and flexing with the plastic, thankfully nothing broke. Be prepared for a struggle though, it's not easy.. major hand and forearm cramps!

As preventative maintenance I would recommend someone to do this if they ever replace their aux fan. The cables are fairly cheap and are easier to access if you are replacing your fan. I'm glad I finally did mine as the cables were VERY rusty and had an end piece snap off while replacing. Now everything is smooth and I don't have to worry every time I pop the hood

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk
__________________
BADRAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
bowden, e46, hood, hood cable, hood release

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.