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Old 11-12-2013, 07:28 AM   #31
cheapthrills
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I have been fighting the same battle with braking vibration, and throwing rotors at it. The bearings have no noticable play, but I have suspected them; car has 280k. Looks like I'll try new hubs/bearings.

Agree with above, cross-drilled are not the answer.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:01 AM   #32
pats330i
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The car was outside during the summer months, but is now inside for the winter. I did not notice any rust on the rotors during the summer months. The car is not driven on a regular basis, but at least once a week. From what's been posted, it sounds like the OEM pads are the problem. Has anyone tried ceramic pads?
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:50 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabela View Post
Don't get crossed drilled. More money and it's only for show.
I'm sure your rotors are not warped, it's most likely pad deposits. Do you park your car outside? Do you drive it daily?
^ This.

There is no such thing as "warped" rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths


People are experiencing these issues because of their driving style. Once you superheat your rotors and pads by braking, get OFF the brakes when coming to a stop. Otherwise you will fuse brake pad material to your rotor, causing an uneven surface.

And anything but regular OE/OEM blank rotors is a mistake.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:54 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pats330i View Post
The car was outside during the summer months, but is now inside for the winter. I did not notice any rust on the rotors during the summer months. The car is not driven on a regular basis, but at least once a week. From what's been posted, it sounds like the OEM pads are the problem. Has anyone tried ceramic pads?
Akebono Euro pads are ceramic. You sacrifice less initial bite for less brake dust, and potentially a more heat resistant pad. Axxis pads are an option too.

I'll bet they underperform in winter, since they work best when warmed up.
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Old 11-14-2013, 02:59 PM   #35
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The thing I realized with the hubs and bearings is that, when I put on a brand new rotor on my old hubs, I could actually see that the gap between the rotor and the part that holds the calipers would get smaller and larger as I rotated the rotor by hand. This happened with old rotors and I thought it was just bent rotors, but after putting in the new ones, still having the same movement made me think that it was the hubs.

its been a while now since I replaced my hubs and rotors along with pads, and I have no issue whatsoever.

I had to change pads also as the pads on one side were totally worn out compared to other.
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Old 11-14-2013, 03:22 PM   #36
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Is that fern green? Looks nice
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Old 11-14-2013, 03:38 PM   #37
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I need to double check if it is specifically fern green. But I know that it is very rare. Apparently there is only 2, 323ci`s in canada with this color and black interior.. I love the color just because it is so different than others.. And looks very nice after some polishing
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:17 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sergiomordo View Post
A red 330ci M-package would be nice hahahah.
I agree!

It seems we have very similar tastes in colours! I had a Fern Green E36 and now I have an Imola Red 330ci M-Sport!

-

I too am experiencing vibrating under light braking. I had my FCABs replaced in August and the vibrating started happening a couple thousand kilometers after that. Not sure how I should go about attacking this problem.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:13 PM   #39
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vibration/ rotors out of spec

I'm starting to think that maybe that the pad material is building up on the rotors. I tried couple of panic stops and it seems to be a bit better. Try it, it doesn't cost anything.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:25 PM   #40
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Wow your car is exactly what I want as my next car, down to its rims... Very beautiful car.. You are a lucky man

If your fcabs are new then problem is not there. My strategy would be to buy new pads and rotors first. You will need new rotors no matter what the problem is. Then remove your rims and just rotate the old rotors by hand. You can do this after you remove the caliper as well. Watch the gap between a fixed point and the rotor to see if there is any play in it. Most probably there will be. Then remove your old rotors and put the new ones on. Just rotate the new rotors by hand again, no need to put the calipers and pads back on. Just rotate by hand to see if the play disappears. In my case, there was still play, even with the new rotors. So I did not bother putting them on as it will bend again. The fact that new rotors had play as well, made me conclude that I needed new hubs. I bought and replaced the hubs with bearings, and put on new brakes and pads. Now the problem is fully fixed. It has been 2 months and no issues so far.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #41
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Oh yes thats another thing, try bedding the brakes in. Do some fast accelerations and fast braking, one after another. Drive couple minutes at fixed speed to cool the breaks between each run. This might clean up the buildup. In my case, this did not help at all.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:34 PM   #42
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Thanks for the compliments.

I tried 3 x 10 fast stops from 100km/h to ~20km/h with 5 minutes in between each set of 10 stops.

Didn't help.
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Chargespeed carbon fiber trunk lip - 19" VarrsToen ES 3.2.2 - Impul headers - Muffler delete
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:08 PM   #43
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I was experiencing the same symptoms, new hubs and rotors fixed the issue. This was on an 01 330i. Went through a couple sets of rotors before changing the hubs. The new hubs seem to be twice as thick as my stock hubs so it seems the stock hubs were too thin and over time they warped slightly causing the rotor not to sit flush and eventually build up high spots.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:36 AM   #44
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+1. My car has been fine since I changed the bearings/hubs. And it was a really easy job.
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