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Old 09-20-2013, 09:43 PM   #46
frankie591
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He said in another thread that he deleted the bias valve as well as the booster.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:07 PM   #47
richie_s999
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Originally Posted by frankie591 View Post
He said in another thread that he deleted the bias valve as well as the booster.
Your over thinking it, in a hydraulic system the fluid pushes and pulls, that's why there can be no compressible gas, just fluid in the lines, bias affects the amount of pressure applied, and if more is applied then more return pressure will be there when the pedal lifts up. The pressure does not remain build up or the brakes would not release.

It's a seized calliper that all
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:38 PM   #48
SubDad
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Yeah, usually the simplest diagnosis is correct, so most likely a couple of seized calipers.

Next problem after that, I wonder why the drive-shaft has those rub marks. (His post of 9-16.)

I think I'll drop this and go worry about my gas leak.
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:47 AM   #49
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It can't be a seized caliper. I've had all of the calipers apart and they are all working perfectly. I also just replaced the rear passenger and flex line because I thought it was sticking. But still, after a couple minutes of driving I hit the brakes and it starts to lock. And then out of no where there locked tight. But, if I release the pressure from the bleeders the car moves fine until I hit the brakes again and so on. I built a pretty hefty heat shield around the master today thinking it was getting too hot and internals were expanding. But that didn't help. I did try cracking the rear line at the master at one point but no fluid seamed to come out and the pressure wasn't released. Under closer inspection all 4 wheels are locking tight.


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Old 09-22-2013, 06:45 AM   #50
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It can't be a seized caliper. I've had all of the calipers apart and they are all working perfectly. I also just replaced the rear passenger and flex line because I thought it was sticking. But still, after a couple minutes of driving I hit the brakes and it starts to lock. And then out of no where there locked tight. But, if I release the pressure from the bleeders the car moves fine until I hit the brakes again and so on. I built a pretty hefty heat shield around the master today thinking it was getting too hot and internals were expanding. But that didn't help. I did try cracking the rear line at the master at one point but no fluid seamed to come out and the pressure wasn't released. Under closer inspection all 4 wheels are locking tight.


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Make sure you pedal is returning all the way up, did you drill
The extra hole and reuse the return spring when you did the delete kit? Could be a bad master cyl, or the rod from the pedal to the master was not right.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:21 AM   #51
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From what I can see the pedal is fully returning. I even bend the sensor bracket out of the way so I could fully lift the pedal and rod out of the master. And still no luck. I'm gonna try and maybe shorten the rod today and see if that does anything.

Edit: mastercylinder is a brand new ATE master.


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