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Old 07-17-2013, 07:08 AM   #1
Slowered318
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Heater Hose Question, e30 318is

Can someone please verify the correct hose for inlet and outlet on the heater core?

If the arrows are correct in the first diagram then the water pipe is under suction and should be connected to the lower pipe on the heater core (without the valve). I assume the top pipe (with the valve) is the inlet to the heater core and the bottom pipe outlet, real OEM seems to have them reversed in the second diagram.

Really confusing! LOL
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The major difference between my 318is and an e30 M3 is that the noises come from the engine and not the passengers
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:35 AM   #2
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I'm not sure if you're familiar, but instead of changing the hoses, you should be deleting them.

Here is the link for the procedure.
http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=2742.315
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:13 AM   #3
Slowered318
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Oh don't worry. I have a bag full of various size vacuume hose, clamps and fittings. Gonna post a more complete write-up on maxbimmer for the 318 guys here. Also deleting the valve between the heater core lines in favour of a simple bypass. Hard to to explain but stay tuned, it gonna be well engineered and stock looking for easy certification.

Just wondering if I should vent the valve cover down under my engine. That's the way it's done on turbo Diesel engines and would keep the intake clean.
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The major difference between my 318is and an e30 M3 is that the noises come from the engine and not the passengers

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Old 07-18-2013, 01:25 PM   #4
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Valve cover vent plugs to the bottom of throttle body.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr ilia View Post
Valve cover vent plugs to the bottom of throttle body.
I know but the oil vapor makes a mess of the intake valves and manifold, I doubt it's good for combustion either. I might build something like this http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/au.../pht20040301cc
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr ilia View Post
I'm not sure if you're familiar, but instead of changing the hoses, you should be deleting them.

Here is the link for the procedure.
http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=2742.315
This x1000 .

I was replacing vacuum hoses every 6 months until i simplified the whole system. Deleting the throttle body heater didnt have any negative consequences either.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:05 AM   #7
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I say, screw the heater plate! lol

So any guidance on the coolant hoses and flow direction?
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:53 AM   #8
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Having some troubles now.

Since I changed all the hoses and removed the bypass valve (from the recall) I've been experiencing a strange problem with my cabin heater. I have almost no heat at highway speeds but when I come to a stop/crawl I have plenty. Engine temp and coolant level seems to be normal, I bleed the coolant twice using the uphill method to remove any air, tried disconnecting the power to the heater core valve. Checked over the system a few times and still getting the same problem at prolonged speeds above 50.

I have a feeling I might have connected the heater core lines backwards but it doesn't make sense that would have any effect. The heater core is just a closed loop from the head to the water pipe or does it have some sort of check valve? I've pulled over a few times and both lines to the heater core are toasty warm. I don't want to replace the heater control valve or thermostat if possible, they both seem to be working.
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Old 08-15-2013, 02:48 PM   #9
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Looks like this guy has it the other way around. I also envy his nice looking starter motor complete with the funky bracket that i'm missing.

Can someone go look under the hood for me?
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Slowered318 View Post
Having some troubles now.

Since I changed all the hoses and removed the bypass valve (from the recall) I've been experiencing a strange problem with my cabin heater. I have almost no heat at highway speeds but when I come to a stop/crawl I have plenty. Engine temp and coolant level seems to be normal, I bleed the coolant twice using the uphill method to remove any air, tried disconnecting the power to the heater core valve. Checked over the system a few times and still getting the same problem at prolonged speeds above 50.

I have a feeling I might have connected the heater core lines backwards but it doesn't make sense that would have any effect. The heater core is just a closed loop from the head to the water pipe or does it have some sort of check valve? I've pulled over a few times and both lines to the heater core are toasty warm. I don't want to replace the heater control valve or thermostat if possible, they both seem to be working.

This does not look right. I used this guide:
http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=2742.0

Here is how mine was done:

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Old 08-15-2013, 04:01 PM   #11
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what about your clutch fan? if it stays engaged it will continuously cool and not allow for engine temp regulation. I would go over your entire cooling system. from the therm stat, hoses, clutch fan.. faulty stat doesn't necessarily indicate a rise in temp.
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I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
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1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
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latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
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latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:18 PM   #12
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what about your clutch fan? if it stays engaged it will continuously cool and not allow for engine temp regulation. I would go over your entire cooling system. from the therm stat, hoses, clutch fan.. faulty stat doesn't necessarily indicate a rise in temp.
Actually I don't have a clutch fan anymore, converted to electric puller fan with an 80/88 switch on the rad. Thermostat is 88 degrees and holds the engine temp pretty steady at the half way mark, it drops down a slight bit at highway speeds. Just went over the whole system when I changed the hoses, might drop in a 91 degree stat next time around for better cabin heat and to improve my highway fuel economy.

Mr. Ilia - I did follow the guide on M42club but made some slight alterations using a M44 hose to bypass the TB heater plate.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:10 AM   #13
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Switched the heater core hoses and problem is solved. Yay!
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