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Old 06-23-2013, 09:19 PM   #16
_JohnnyD_
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A minor update on the car.

I fixed a small wiring issue that caused the temp gauge to flutter intermittently. I bled the cooling system but I still have a few problems.
The fan is still not turning on. I checked the wiring and I can bypass the switch and it works fine. So it looks like I need another switch.
I let the car heat up to about a needle width below 3/4 on the temp gauge and coolant started to poor gently out of the cap on the overflow tank.
I've never seen this before. Last time I overheated a car the coolant burst out of the cap like steam.
I think I need a new cap. Any ideas? Anyone have a coolant cap from a early eta E30 over flow bottle?
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:03 AM   #17
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I know that a part of the cooling system recall for E30's is the cap for the coolant bottle. It may be worth just getting a new one. Is the coolant coming out of the threaded part or out of the overflow hose that comes off the cap area?

Have you made sure to make the tank elevated higher then the rest of the cooling system?
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:45 PM   #18
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Very nice swap. Did you go with a 1-piece or 2-piece drive shaft?

Last edited by thedivision; 06-27-2013 at 04:07 PM. Reason: misread the thread
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:58 AM   #19
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E30 M60.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Very nice swap. Did you go with a 1-piece or 2-piece drive shaft?
The drive shaft is a 2 piece. Essentially it is an E30 drive shaft with the first 6 inches cut off and the first 6 inches of an E39 drive shaft welded on. When you look at the two drive shafts there is an area were the diameters are the same so it makes sense to cut and weld there.
I put a lot of thought into a 1 piece and the cost of an aluminun 1 piece is a most the same as welding and rebuilding an old two piece drive shaft.
The problem with 1 piece driveshafts are they are not forgiving if there is any slight variation in angles between the transmission and the diff. If want to do a 1 piece you should really take the car to shop that laser measure the centre of the harmonic balancer, trans output flange, and diff input flange to ensure they are perfectly aligned. If not the engine and trans mounts need to be adjusted. That is the process that real race cars use.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:17 PM   #21
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Cardanic driveline ftw. Have always assisted in all of my e30 swap driveshaft needs in the past.
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:03 PM   #22
thedivision
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _JohnnyD_ View Post
The drive shaft is a 2 piece. Essentially it is an E30 drive shaft with the first 6 inches cut off and the first 6 inches of an E39 drive shaft welded on. When you look at the two drive shafts there is an area were the diameters are the same so it makes sense to cut and weld there.
I put a lot of thought into a 1 piece and the cost of an aluminun 1 piece is a most the same as welding and rebuilding an old two piece drive shaft.
The problem with 1 piece driveshafts are they are not forgiving if there is any slight variation in angles between the transmission and the diff. If want to do a 1 piece you should really take the car to shop that laser measure the centre of the harmonic balancer, trans output flange, and diff input flange to ensure they are perfectly aligned. If not the engine and trans mounts need to be adjusted. That is the process that real race cars use.
Thanks for the detailed response.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:45 PM   #23
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A quick update. I have 2 issues holding the car back.

After some research the Toyota rad comes with some problems. The reason my rad fan doesn't work is because the Toyota uses a naturally closed fan switch and BMW uses a naturally open switch. I currently have the Toyota connector wired in place of the BMW connector but that's not going to work. Currently I only found a Toyota Australia fan switch that would be a plug in or an aftermarket switch that may or may not seal.

The other issue is a sticking throttle that has been bugging me for a while. When I'm driving at about 1/4 throttle and I hit the clutch the engine revs up to red line and in about 3-5 secs later it settles back down. I can't replicate this by playing with the throttle body so I think there is something going on with the cable. The cable is brand new from BMW.

On a good note the car idles great, with the fan hot wired the car stays nice and cool just below 1/2 way on the gauge. The throttle response is good and the brakes are very firm.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:02 AM   #24
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You can't rethread or find a properly sized BMW fan switch to use?

How's the cable look? Slack/twisted? The actual throttle moves freely? The springs and mechanisms are clean and lubed?
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #25
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I had a similar problem with my M50 throttle sticking, turns out my butterfly plate shaft was seized up and there was dirt and crap in the return spring. I had to jimmy up a secondary return spring for a while but after cleaning up the TB and return spring and lubing them a bit it works fine now.

May also be worth noting that my linkage from the throttle cable plate to the TB shaft is also pretty loose and should be replaced some day.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:31 PM   #26
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I finally got the car driveable (temp registration only it needs e-test) on Friday last week. Just in time for Bimmercuise.

The drive from Stoney Creek to Mosport was nerve racking. It was the first time the car drove more than 10km at a time and over 90 km/hr in probably 4 years. I lost some wheel weights and the rearend of the car vibrated like an SOB between 90 and 120 km/hr. I had them rebalanced at a Crappy Tire in Oshawa so the drive back was much better.

The car also slowly overheats when stuck in traffic (Oshawa and 401 back) just enough that turning the heater on keeps it in a safe temp. I think this is because I have a ebay special fan that sucks or blows. I'll upgrade to a proper Mishimoto for next time.

Other then that it was great to drive.

Some pics...

Early morning wash before the show...



Finishing touch...



At home after the show...





Thanks for all of the positive feedback from those that came over during the show to check it out. It was a great event.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:41 PM   #27
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Last weekend the car was out for the last little cruise before she was put way.






Now it's time to get back to work and fix all of the little bugs.

Damn its a long list of bugs.
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:42 PM   #28
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She's back

Well, the mean green M60 machine is back out of the garage and I took it for the first little spin of the year.





As you can see she hasn't been collecting dust all winter. There were a few bugs that were worked out.

I think the best mod are the BC coil overs with a much stiffer spring rate. The old ST springs were way to soft and the tires rubbed every time the car cornered hard.

More updates and better pics to come when the sun comes out.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:02 PM   #29
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Still seksi as hell....
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:03 PM   #30
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very nice!!!
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