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Old 04-01-2013, 02:06 PM   #61
Ryan1212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamahammer View Post
Thats perfect!

I don't have a cigarette lighter though. I could just wire an old baseboard heater in the footwell.
Just light a match and burn all of the excess fuel from the fuel leak
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:08 PM   #62
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I don't recall any fuel leaks

Let's stop ruining Steve's thread here
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:09 PM   #63
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I don't recall any fuel leaks

Let's stop ruining Steve's thread here


Back to Steve's progress

Looking great Steve, love the look of them on the car.

Last edited by Ryan1212; 04-01-2013 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:27 PM   #64
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You guys make me lol

It'll lose the heater core when it gets a cage... I'll enjoy the heater core for one more year. Besides, I'd like to be able to say that my set-up does not compromise any of the vehicles original systems i.e. no brake booster delete, no heater core delete, still has cruise control. I will however be eliminating the ICV, but that's just to keep things simple, it would be possible to include it if desired.

I was looking at these foam filter wraps from Uni-Filter at lunch. They are meant to go over top of K&N filters on motorcycles, I guess to give an extra layer of protection from crud. I figure I could slide them over the v-stack and secure with a band clamp or piece of wire as an initial air filter solution while I work on some different v-stack designs.

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Old 04-01-2013, 05:23 PM   #65
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Those are cool looking, interesting idea.

I personally like the look of these, but not sure if you could find some to fit your stacks or not. (I'm talking about the filter part, not the chrome short stacks)

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Old 04-04-2013, 07:13 PM   #66
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Looks like its from outer space! Got my vote!

Those filter covers you're looking for -- theyre going to filter adequately?

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Those are cool looking, interesting idea.

I personally like the look of these, but not sure if you could find some to fit your stacks or not. (I'm talking about the filter part, not the chrome short stacks)

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Old 04-27-2013, 02:40 PM   #67
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I know it's been a while since I've posted any updates, that's because there hasn't been many...

I was able to squeeze a hose behind the booster, it involved cutting the hard line from the heatercore back a bit. There's not much for the hose clamp to squeeze on, but it hasn't been leaking so it should be good...



I also figured out that the throttle cables will roughly reach where the bracket for the throttle body cable screws on, so I'll be able to modify that bracket to hold onto the throttle and cruise cables....



I'm still in the process of designing the mechanism I'm going to use to join the cables.

And finally, the manifold has been fully welded...

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Old 04-27-2013, 02:59 PM   #68
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Looks bad ass man.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:22 PM   #69
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Deleting that brake booster looks like it would help with room in there
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:21 PM   #70
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Driving a car on the street with no booster is asking for it lol.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:33 PM   #71
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I'd say my brakes on my car feel just as strong without the booster, the delete kit I got relocates the booster and where it is pushed from the pedal, feels the same as when it had the booster.

With all the mods people do to their cars, properly modifying and using quality components don't make a car unsafe, using cheap crap parts will make a car dangerous.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:23 PM   #72
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You mean relocates the Master and probably moves the hole for the pin closer to the fulcrum. It would put increased forced on the pin.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:27 PM   #73
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Clearing the brake booster wasn't much of an issue, it was just the upper heater core hose that was in the way, even with the booster gone it's still have to be massaged to clear the throttle bodies.

In the end I want to be able to say that I build an ITB set-up that retained cruise control and the stock brake booster.
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:51 PM   #74
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I realize that I havenít updated this in a while, but thatís only because thereís been nothing up update on unfortunately. Fortunately however, I am hoping to machine a couple of the bits I need to mock up my throttle linkage after work this evening.

I figured that in the meantime I might post some pictures of what Iím planning on building. My idea is to use the linkage off of the stock throttle body in hopes that the pedal travel and throttle progression will remain the same in addition to retaining cruise control functionality. My plan is to use the holes in the valve cover to mount a piece of angle iron and to that piece of angle iron Iím going to weld some laser cut pieces of 3/16Ē steel.



The one side of the bracket is slotted and has a tab with two holes where the two throttle cables adjusters will mount. The slot is so I can set the height of the tab, once itís set Iíll fill the slot with weld and trim any excess off the top. Then you can see the cable joiner to combine the two cables into one. Iím going to weld a shoulder bolt to the actuating linkage from the throttle body and attach my cable actuating lever to that.

Those with a keen eye will see that itís not actuating through the axis that the stock throttle plate does, but the other axis of the linkage. The reason for this is that the throttle plate axis needs to rotate through 90 degrees in order to get full pedal travel and having the actuating lever attached to that axis adds complications to the motion of the actuating lever and clevis. Due to the geometry of the throttle linkage, the other axis only rotates about 45 degrees through full pedal travel which should be sufficient in order to get enough cable travel to fully open the bike throttle bodies.



Here you can see the actuating lever which is a lasercut piece welded to a collar clamp. The collar clamp is to help fine tune the cable positions when setting up the throttle bodies. Once everything is set, Iíll likely drill through the collar clamp and shoulder bolt and insert a spring pin to lock the orientation. That way I wonít have to worry about the collar clamp vibrating loose and slipping. The actuating lever has a few holes in it for the clevis for fine tuning the amount of cable travel.



p.s. I'm using thumbnail pictures to try and stretch out my bandwith for longer that it's been lasting the last couple months
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:41 PM   #75
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Nice design. I know its just a pre-lim but I would use a bolt/nut opposed to shaft/cotter where the cable end attaches to the actuating lever. I feel once its on the car getting the cotters through after potentially switching positions would be real tricky.

Have you checked linear displacement of the cable end at the actuator with it rotating on the secondary axis?
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