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Old 03-04-2013, 09:38 AM   #16
e30_kid89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceeker View Post
drill out an extractor? hmmm...well, you got the other bolts still good to go. I'd throw a gasket on, use some gasket sealant and torx the bolts down. cross your fingers. it's only a therm housing; and from where it's at you may get away with it. or...dig deeper..lol
Will still leak most likely. It's already broken, the car is already down...might as well repair it properly IMO
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:59 AM   #17
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not necessarily, I've broken and stripped a waterpump bolt and still put everything back with no leaks. it's a chance you take.

agreed though, since you're in there might as well try to fix.
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latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:51 PM   #18
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Admit you're beat, Pay the $100.

You'll need a diamond tipped bit to get into that, and the other tools you don't have...

I think that will leak given the space between the bolts holding it in, if you don't fix it properly.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:00 PM   #19
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it will leak for sure, maybe not right away. The cobalt or diamond drill bits will cost you over $100 to fix this properly. Paying $100 is you're best option right now.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:03 AM   #20
poleposition
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Update: So I managed to fix it. Just a heads up for anyone who may be stuck in this sort of situation, do NOT use extractor bit sets. They work fine for applications where there is still a chance that the bolt may come lose, not here. If you do use an extractor bit and it breaks you are screwed because you need something even harder to drill through it.

What I did was, grind off the part that was sticking out of the head with the extractor stuck in it. So i pretty much by-passed it. Then I used normal bits to drill out the bolt. Took time but got it done.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:06 AM   #21
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The reason why I replaced the waterpump and thermostat is because the engine was overheating. Now that everything has been replaced, it still is doing the same. The temp needle will slowly rise like normal, but it keeps going past the half way mark all the way into the red zone. The radiator, waterpump and thermostat is new. I checked both hoses from the radiator, one was hot initially. Then after a few minutes the other got hot too, which means the thermostat opened right? There is no heat through the heater, just cold air. Could it be because of improper bleeding? heater valve? or a sensor?

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Old 03-05-2013, 09:39 AM   #22
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The reason why I replaced the waterpump and thermostat is because the engine was overheating. Now that everything has been replaced, it still is doing the same. The temp needle will slowly rise like normal, but it keeps going past the half way mark all the way into the red zone. The radiator, waterpump and thermostat is new. I checked both hoses from the radiator, one was hot initially. Then after a few minutes the other got hot too, which means the thermostat opened right? There is no heat through the heater, just cold air. Could it be because of improper bleeding? heater valve? or a sensor?
Same symptoms happened to me with my m20. Was due to air trapped in the system due to improper bleeding
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:35 AM   #23
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Same symptoms happened to me with my m20. Was due to air trapped in the system due to improper bleeding
How did you get the air out? Im looking at DIY's for bleeding the system, any tips on bleeding from experience?
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:18 PM   #24
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Yes, I had the same problem with an M42 I had. I changed everything. Rule#1. Always do the easiest and cheapest fix. Try bleeding first. If that fails diagnose over heating issue. Stat, 2nd cheapest then pump. Well at least your cooling system is fail proof now...lol

park the car on a slope with the noise facing up. run the car to op temp put the heat on full defrost and then crack the bleeder nipple open. if you get nothing, rev the engine a bit higher then idle (1500rpm) to force the air to the highest point. You should start to see some flow with bubbles. Bubbles or spattering is air in the system. A constant flow is airless. Repeat the process a couple times. Close system and test drive. If the problem continues; repeat the process until it stops. If by chance it doesn't stop which happened to me. I pulled the car over; waited and removed the cap to release any air that may be trapped. But I waited for the car to cool before attempting. So be careful not to scold yourself with hot coolant. just keep repeating the cycle until it stabilizes.
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2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:25 PM   #25
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Update: Thanks Ceeker for the bleeding process. When I said that it has a new radiator, what I meant was that the previous owner said that he had changed it. When I went to bleed it, i was surprised to find a big bolt instead of the bleed screw. But it still worked and did the job.

For anyone stuck in this situation just follow the above steps. Be patient, I was surprised by how much air there was in it. Once air bubbles stopped coming out of the bleed screw I tightened it and the temperature dropped. There was also heat in the cabin now. But it still heated up a bit, so i repeated the process and now its dead center.
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:37 PM   #26
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Good to hear you got it all fixed.

For posterity, when the plastic thermostat on my M50 cracked Northern and I changed it out in a Wall Mart parking lot in -15 weather, but that's another story. One of the bolts broke off like the OP's; I put some sealant on the new used housing, put it together with the remaining 3 bolts and filled the coolant. It's been over 3 months and not only did it not need to be bled at all, it doesn't leak a drop of coolant. True story.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:04 PM   #27
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Hey poleposition,

Sorry the waterpump was a PITA, and the original plastic screw in the rad gets very brittle after a million heat cycles. It broke on me and I didn't trust it to hold pressure - that's why there's a bolt in the hole - should out last the rad. M42's are a real pain to bleed the air out of the cooling system - as you've found out. R3V and M42club.com are great on line sources for help.

Good luck with the car ... I really enjoyed it the last 7 years. Hope you have just as much fun with it.

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Old 03-19-2013, 09:41 PM   #28
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its difficult to take it after you have screwed this part up, its best to insert the thermostat and just jb weld the thermostat housing, thats if you cannot take out the screw. had this happen to me.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:44 PM   #29
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u have to drill the centre of the screw then hammer the extractor then you have to turn, make sure you do not use any excessive force when turning or you will brake the extractor screw off. had experienced this problem first hand. hope this helps.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:50 PM   #30
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it could be a bad sensor this happens to e30s had it happen to me, the needle spiked to the red zone, just check for coolant in rad or measure the average temperature and find out if its really overheating. the temperature should be around 180f-220f i think.
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