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Old 02-25-2013, 04:10 PM   #31
Bullet Ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamahammer View Post
Hmmm. well I know the axis that each tab rotates about is the same positionally, but it still seems awkward.

I feel like we are either talking about different things or you mis-understood what I am going to be doing. All I'm doing is extending the tabs horizontally (as shown by the red lines) to compensate for the spacers I added so that I can put the lower springs back in. The throttle bodies will function exactly the same way as when they were original.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:34 PM   #32
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Now i got it. Good picture.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:39 PM   #33
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Ya i get what you are doing. Just don't mind me :p
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:46 AM   #34
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Modified one of the tabs the other day. One side was removable so I was able to cut it and weld on a piece of sheet metal...




The tab on the other side will be a bit more difficult because it can't easily be removed.
Last night I started prepping the manifold to get a couple runners tacked on for test fitment. I didn't get any pictures of that though.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:32 PM   #35
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That looks perfect. Operates well?
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:13 PM   #36
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That looks perfect. Operates well?
Operates the same as stock
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:18 PM   #37
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So on Friday I gave a chunk of the manifold that I had cut off to the guy that's going to be doing the TIG welding for me (since I don't have my own machine yet). He wanted to play around with it to see how the cast aluminium welded...



Well that looks pretty f*cking ugly doesn't it...

That's because he was just playing around with it. I gave him a slice of the tube to try and weld to it....



That's more like it!



I also cut a piece at the 24 degree angle. I'm going to get it tacked on so that I can check clearances on the car...



Stay tuned
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:48 AM   #38
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So I modified the other tab on the throttle body yesterday, it was a bit trickier since I had to weld it while it was still attached to the throttle body. It turned out ok, it ended up being a bit twisted after welding so I had to bend it a bit. However it seems solid and should work fine...




I was also talking to the guy who's going to be welding the manifold and he expressed concern that the manifold is going to get pretty hot and could end up twisting because there are some thin parts in what's left of it. So to avoid any issues with that I made a fixture out of a piece of 1/5" steel flat bar. I threw the piece of tube on there as well to give you guys an idea of what that will look like...


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Old 03-06-2013, 11:36 AM   #39
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Looking really good.. more progress than most other ITB builds have in years.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:57 PM   #40
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Getting closer!

Im going to envy your open stacks! Until i go full standalone
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:09 PM   #41
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Id still have envy for open stacks, doesn't really get any better than that lol
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:31 PM   #42
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Good stuff!.

I am liking how those extended synching tabs turned out!
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:27 PM   #43
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Some updates for everyone....

Yesterday I got two runner extensions tacked onto the manifold. As you can see I've done a bit of work to the manifold hogging out material. That's so that the end of the runner matches the ID of the extension.




I'll be going back once things have been fully welded to blend any remaining ridges...




If you have a keen eye you'll also notice that I knife edged the extensions. That's so that inside the silicone coupler there won't be a step for the air to run into...




Tacking on those two extensions allowed me to do this





First thing I noticed was that the dip stick tube was barely clearing the throttle bodies and would probably be an issue once the v-stacks were put on...




Yeah, that's not going to work....




Solution: Use the box end of a big wrench to make a number of small bends at a few points along the dip stick tube...




End result: I should be able to make it clear in the car...

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Old 03-09-2013, 05:29 PM   #44
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Then I started thinking about joining the two sets of throttle bodies so that they can be operated by a single cable. I popped off the end cap as well as the TPS....




My initial thought was to replace the nut on the one side with a threaded stand off. Then machine a part that I can thread into the stand off that has a slot on the end that which will mate up with the tab that actuated the TPS. That way I'd be able to adjust the coupler then lock it down with a jam nut.

My concern was that the shaft is made out of brass and that tab is pretty thin. That tab was only ever meant to actuate a TPS, not deal with the stiff torsional loads from the return springs or the shock loads from mashing the throttle open and closed, I felt that over time that could become an issue, and if it were to break then my car would only be able to feed three cylinders with air.

Then I started contemplating the throttle cable situation. With the way I currently had the throttle bodies mounted the cable would have to pull downwards in one of two spots to actuate the throttles...




I could probably use the throttle cable that came with the throttles and loop it around and up to the valve cover to whatever bell crank mechanism I come up with.


Then I was like hmmm.... what if I turn the throttle bodies upside down?




That way the throttle cable is up top. I thought to myself, that looks promising! Not only that, but all of the clutter from the vacuum lines will be hidden on the bottom side. It might be a bit tricky to get at the vacuum ports to sync the throttles, but I'll really only have to do that once....




That does look cleaner! And I can use the screws that the bike's fuel system was attached with to do some cable/hose management with the engine harness...




Then while I was playing with the one throttle cable I thought to myself... well what's stopping me from running a second cable right to this spot and just joining the two cables together so that they can be actuated with a single cable... so I threw a cable on the other set....




Now this I like! With this set-up I no longer need that coupler that I was feeling sketchy about. I figure that it shouldn't be too hard to make up an assembly that I can bolt to the valve cover where the manifold support brace use to mount that has a bell crank with two different diameters so that I can get proper pedal travel. I can probably even make it so that I can retain the cruise control




So that's pretty much where things are at right now. The next step is to test fit it on the car so that I can find out what's in the way... because there's probably something in the way lol. I'm thinking that I am definitely going to have to do some massaging of the hoses that go into the heater core. I was thinking about going to where I have my car stored and pulling the manifold off to test fit, but that will end up being more hassle than I want, so I'm likely going to put things on hold for a couple weeks until the snow melts enough so that I can get my car out and bring it home.

Just to make it look sort of complete I threw the other couplers on and tilted the motor to the angle that it sits in the car. A couple more pics...







Cheers.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:22 PM   #45
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Keep it up!

Looking great!
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