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Old 12-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #16
subarooo
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Thanks dude! I'll have to shoot him a pm and see what his plans for brakes and dp are.


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Old 12-19-2012, 03:48 PM   #17
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Nice. I'll be checking on this one
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:31 AM   #18
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I love your car! Ive seen it around on stanceworks. Looking forward to seeing your progess, interacial swaps always end up being the sickest! Im doing a 1jz in mine
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:31 PM   #19
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Thanks guys, things are starting to move along again!

Biggest update, Engine mounts are tacked up and my hood closes!!!!!!!





For the mounts i used 3x3 1/4inch square tube. I felt that for the amount of weight and torque that the rb has, i didn't want it sitting that far from my subframe. I felt that welding them to the chasis would be alot safer.





I chopped the shaft and did a quick test fit. i also wanted to see if everything lined up. I dont have a lot of room to look under my car at the moment so im going to eye ball it. So far everything looks pretty good :up:



I removed the heater box tubes and was able to push the motor back close to an inch. The only issue so far is that the starter side of the tranny will hit the firewall, and the speed sensor hits the tranny tunnel. Im going to mark where they hit tomorrow so i can persuade them when the motors out. Other than that nothings really "too" close to anything besides the dp.

This is where the shifter sits now, a little trimming will have to be done.



Because the motor sits so far back now, i dont think ill have much room to play around with a brake booster. Instead, i think im going to go with a wilwood pedal cluster. Ill be running manual brakes from inside the car, This should also help me with the clucth seeing as the master and slave are different bore sizes.

This is how she sits now



My wiring harness will also be done tomorrow thanks to a buddy of mine! Ended up costing me only 175 bucks. IF i can some vacuum and boost lines figured out, as well as my fuel lines ill hopefully start it this week. Might as well see if it works while its under warranty.

Thanks for watching so far!
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:08 PM   #20
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have you looked into the massive lee e30 brake booster delete kit?
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:44 PM   #21
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have you looked into the massive lee e30 brake booster delete kit?
I just did
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:25 PM   #22
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have you looked into the massive lee e30 brake booster delete kit?
Would be a lot easier than a custom pedal setup, plus the stock e30 pedals are excellent for heel-toe
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:49 PM   #23
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I have looked into it, but it's not exactly a propper manual setup. The wildwood setup would only cost me 200 bucks more and I'd have the right master bore sizing.


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Old 01-09-2013, 03:23 PM   #24
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I have looked into it, but it's not exactly a propper manual setup. The wildwood setup would only cost me 200 bucks more and I'd have the right master bore sizing.


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it has nothing to do with the clutch, pedal placement does not change, how is it not a propper manual set up.

I do understand if your going to a pedal box set up, which offers more adjustablity
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:57 AM   #25
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The bore size on a stock e30 master is meant for a booster. Simply taking the booster away will make the pedal feel more difficult than I'd like. Especially with the added weight of the RB. And what I mean with the clutch is, the bore sizing is different than the slave on the Nissan tranny. With the wilwood I should be able to buy both masters for 100 bucks.


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Old 01-11-2013, 10:08 PM   #26
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Small update,

Tranny crossmember is done.







Finishing up a little idea i had for the motor mounts at the moment so i should have more pics tomorrow.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:17 PM   #27
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Very small update, seeing as now its just a waiting game for parts to arrive.

Got these in the mail yesterday!



"Started" shaving the bay, Im basically cutting sheet metal to weld over the existing uglyness. Im sanding everything down and using zinc primer so it doesnt rot from the inside out.



Also realized why i hate old things again,



And just because i miss this bastard...

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Old 01-27-2013, 11:08 PM   #28
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Good progress so far! Loving the ass shot.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:38 PM   #29
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Are you going to use the trans mount as a template to make something slimer? Looks like you like your car to be pretty low and the way you have it now it will likely get destroyed quickly not to mention not leave any room for exhaust. Not trying to put your build down at all, it looks good. If you make the mount clearance more you will have more ground clearance and alot more room to run exhaust.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:06 PM   #30
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Are you going to use the trans mount as a template to make something slimer? Looks like you like your car to be pretty low and the way you have it now it will likely get destroyed quickly not to mention not leave any room for exhaust. Not trying to put your build down at all, it looks good. If you make the mount clearance more you will have more ground clearance and alot more room to run exhaust.
I totally agree stephen, someone on another forum said the same thing actually. I do plan to cut the left side level with the mount. But if that doesn't give me enough room i might use some other tube or get a mount machined. Hows that sr treating you?

Anywho, i've been chugging along with the build as best i can. Ended up staying at the shop all day try and finish up the shaved bay.

Keep in mind everyone, this is my first couple times welding. And today was my first time with the mig welder (which i love now).

Got the passenger side all tacked up, shaved the welds down after and im basically ready for filler.




Got a sheet welded on the drivers side but didn't get to finish the rest. Its taking forever stripping the sealer and grease off this thing.





After the welds are tacked a little more ill be using a panel adhesive to smooth the joints.



After that is all sanded down ill probably use a short strand fiber and end with a finishing glaze.

Also if you didn't notice i removed my rad support (drilled out the spot welds). I will be making brackets that will bolt on to the chasis and fender wall to hold everything in place.

Im still having alot of trouble figuring out what rad to use for sufficient cooling, and also how im going to mount it. So far the best option is to shave a bit off the inside square of the rad support and remove the bulge from the hood release. I should then be able to fit the rad inside of it. The stock bmw rad does fit (within mm's to the crank pulley) but i dont feel it will cool the rb, especially with a front mount.

Thanks for watching, i should have the bay ready for filler in the next day or 2.
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