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Old 08-27-2012, 04:49 PM   #106
BigD
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Originally Posted by DANIMAL View Post
Ah. I was afraid if I ran it up too much the cylinder walls would glaze and the rings would never set. I'm not sure how much it actually matters as I dont know of a way to test it empirically.
What I hear from industry experts is it actually doesn't really matter anymore. The sealing tech is to the point where this part isn't so crucial. It's not like in the 70s where you beat on a motor, replace the cyl head and gain 80hp. You can do some oil analysis to see if you're getting any gas in the oil but I bet you'll be 100% fine.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:11 PM   #107
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Now that I think about it, given my tach is off, I am not 100% sure what my maximum RPM was. I can only be sure that I never bounced off the limiter.

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What I hear from industry experts is it actually doesn't really matter anymore. The sealing tech is to the point where this part isn't so crucial. It's not like in the 70s where you beat on a motor, replace the cyl head and gain 80hp. You can do some oil analysis to see if you're getting any gas in the oil but I bet you'll be 100% fine.
I`d bet your right; the numbers/outcome certainly seem to agree.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:54 PM   #108
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it doesnt matter anymore...hasnt matter in a long time.
More optimal procedure would be mototunes method.

in short: drive it like you stole it
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:41 AM   #109
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Dyno Vid and some new shoes.

As promised here is the video of my 4th run on the Dyno at Bimmercruise.


I also picked up the set of Simmons FR that were for sale here on Max. Thanks for the help getting the deal done Randy!

The tires on them are old and hard but I only need them to last the rest of the season for the street. They will get Hankook V12's when I put Starspecs or R comps on the OZ's for track duty next season.

Photobucket

I plan on cutting the fenders to add flares. So I can accommodate a set of spacers for the road and wider tires (285) for the track.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:11 AM   #110
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oh those are sexy! nice choice

I didnt realize he had dropped the price to a more realistic level.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:40 PM   #111
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Thanks. I suppose he was eager to move them, because the price we settled on was lower than what he was last asking. They all balanced and are straight so I took them. Clear coat is peeling a bit and the tires are hard as rock but still a really good deal for the money I think.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:33 PM   #112
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You can also buy the Zinc addative on its own, or run Royal Purple which has the ZDDP in it. I used to drive a british car and had to use oil with zinc just to keep it running lol !

im going with a Big block in mine so it was good to see how your engine sat in there and everything.

but one big question.

Why did you reuse the BMW diff instead of putting a solid axle under the back?

for mine im going to do a Dana 60 shortened for a mini-tub. I dont trust the BMW half shafts with my horses lol
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:31 PM   #113
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You can also buy the Zinc addative on its own, or run Royal Purple which has the ZDDP in it. I used to drive a british car and had to use oil with zinc just to keep it running lol !

im going with a Big block in mine so it was good to see how your engine sat in there and everything.

but one big question.

Why did you reuse the BMW diff instead of putting a solid axle under the back?

for mine im going to do a Dana 60 shortened for a mini-tub. I dont trust the BMW half shafts with my horses lol


Sounds like your building a car for the drag strip, Dan's car is a monster that turns corners.
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:34 PM   #114
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im gonna coner as well.. just not as good as other cars..... unless I put the spool to work

im going for a grippy fast DD. My engine only has a cam, but puts 420 to the wheels stock

aint no sense in having horses I cant use! lol

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Old 12-23-2012, 11:55 PM   #115
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Why did you reuse the BMW diff instead of putting a solid axle under the back?


because racecar ....
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:17 PM   #116
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...
im going with a Big block in mine so it was good to see how your engine sat in there and everything.

but one big question.

Why did you reuse the BMW diff instead of putting a solid axle under the back?

for mine im going to do a Dana 60 shortened for a mini-tub. I dont trust the BMW half shafts with my horses lol
I reused the BMW rear end because it can take up to about 450HP before something breaks. The ratio, 3:23, also gives me the same final drive as a c5 corvette. If I ever need to strengthen I would simply change the ring gear and get built half shafts which should protect it up to around 600-700. If I needed anything beyond that I would think about picking up the samburg rear subframe and a ford 8.8/9. With some minor modifications and pulling the fenders you can some pretty wide tires on. If you invest in good tires grip wont be your problem. But in the end it depends on your application I built for road courses more than anything else.

A carb'd BB E36 would be cool but I think you will find the tolerances will be much tighter once you get the motor near the body than in my build. I never looked into the BBC for the swap but I believe its heavier and physically larger than the SBC and LS Gen III.

There is a guy with an 8 series and a 305 or 350 (cant recall exactly) somewhere in the GTA. From time to time he will show up to the Trillium Autosaloms.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:06 AM   #117
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Yeah, she is about 650lbs with all cast heads and block. Heads are about 80lbs each lol gonna probably go with some 440 X-flow aluminums though... Trim some fat.

But if the rear end can handle that. I may do the same.... But I would advise you to steer clear of the Ford parts. The 9" is only most commonly used because the parts are cheap and the third member comes out easy for ratio changes, but they are not as strong as other options that I would advise more. That's why I'd do a D60 or D70 if I was gonna do a 4-link and a solid axle. I only wanna do it once and not make pretzels out of ford parts lol

Yeah the engine was a wired one... I bought it for a Dart show car I had that had a modded 318 but I had a different E36 sedan at the time and wanted to do it since. The carb makes it a bit easy. Rip out all the computer stuff and sell it and done lol! Just need gauges and lights. The LS series is nice but once you make good power the MPG sucks... Put a corvette 350 in my brothers truck with roller cams and all that, barely around 415hp.... And it gets 8 city..... Molar has the best balance. The modded 318 dart was getting 18 city and it went down often from having too much fun lol

So what did you do for a driveshaft? Did you still use the rubber bits or just go for a solid one?
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