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Old 08-09-2011, 07:06 AM   #91
richie_s999
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Dan, the car looked and sounded great at the autocross this weekend, cannot wait to see it go when you get the diff changed! I was so wanting to get a euro E36 M3 motor, but your build has me thinking otherwise
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:07 AM   #92
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Thanks Rich, not sure when I am going to change the diff. No rush right now but it should really move with some higher gearing. I am currently considering a few options for the rear diff, including a ford 9 inch.

The S50B32 is nice motor but considering what you end up paying by the time you add the 6spd you might as well pick up an ls/t56 dropout. Its a bit more money for the install but you cant beat the power. I suppose the alternative to the LS swap for me would have been the Fox body Ford 5.0 motor. You don't even need custom headers, and can build/FI it on the cheap.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:25 AM   #93
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The car is in pieces right now, too be back together for Bimmercruise. Reinforcement plates are already welded in. The subframe just needs the Alu bushings pressed in along with new rubber diff mounts, control arm bushings, and Rtabs. Gonna be sweet, Ive been waiting way way too long to launch the car at 4000 RPM.

While everything was out I took the day off work to clean up the underbody a bit. I first painted with tremclad rust paint. Then covered that with a layer of asphalt paint. Sorry for the crappy cell pics. My hands were a bit too dirty to use the DSLR.



Before:


I also wrapped the exhaust so I get a bit less heat in the cabin.

As well as the clean and spray the subframe.

I also replaced the hood release cable, bitch of a job.

I had started to add the wiring harness for the A/C to the PCM but I found out that its different that what I was expecting. The PCM is out of a 01/02 Chev Express Van not an F-Body. This means that the wiring is not terminated to the PCM as I anticipated. Everything is still doable but will require more research, back to the drawing board.
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:29 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANIMAL View Post
The car is in pieces right now, too be back together for Bimmercruise. Reinforcement plates are already welded in. The subframe just needs the Alu bushings pressed in along with new rubber diff mounts, control arm bushings, and Rtabs. Gonna be sweet, Ive been waiting way way too long to launch the car at 4000 RPM.

While everything was out I took the day off work to clean up the underbody a bit. I first painted with tremclad rust paint. Then covered that with a layer of asphalt paint. Sorry for the crappy cell pics. My hands were a bit too dirty to use the DSLR.



Before:


I also wrapped the exhaust so I get a bit less heat in the cabin.

As well as the clean and spray the subframe.

I also replaced the hood release cable, bitch of a job.

I had started to add the wiring harness for the A/C to the PCM but I found out that its different that what I was expecting. The PCM is out of a 01/02 Chev Express Van not an F-Body. This means that the wiring is not terminated to the PCM as I anticipated. Everything is still doable but will require more research, back to the drawing board.
Make sure your asphalt lining paint is non-flammable. Most of them are flammable, even when dry.

Anyone know how difficult it would be to drop one of these into an e90?
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:33 PM   #95
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Make sure your asphalt lining paint is non-flammable. Most of them are flammable, even when dry.

Anyone know how difficult it would be to drop one of these into an e90?
I was sure to get the stuff that is non-flammable once dry.

Into an E90? I would not think its physically that hard it should fit with plenty of room. You may have issues integrating with the CAN bus though.

As a base it will need custom headers (I suppose you could just modify the E90 M3 ones to fit), Engine and Trans mounts, custom driveshaft. The exhaust I would change to that of an E90 M3, if it flows enough for the little 4.0 it should be good for the 5.7 LS. Alternatively you could just use your stock exhaust. Many guys who do this swap in the US use the stock E36 exhaust.
Then you still have to take care of cooling, throttle, steering, basic wiring at a minimum.

then what about A/C, abs, it can go on forever.

I really hope to have all features fully functioning one day. Now that it is running I can add systems onto it as I go. Remember its always a project.
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:51 PM   #96
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this car is crazyy!!!
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:27 AM   #97
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May 2012 Update

Well I have had some trouble with the motor. I had a few reports last summer of the car blowing black smoke when stomping on the gas. I knew that the motor burns a bit of fluids so I thought nothing of it at the time. I also thought it was kinda low on power and I suspected some issue with the original tune so I took it to Champion Motors (A very well known/respected LSX shop). They ran the car on the dyno a few times and for some reason could only get 320ish to the wheels. Knowing that was too low, with a cam, they proceeded to run leakdown tests. The result was that Cyl 7 was actually leaking 98% of pressure.

I was concerned obviously, not because of the costs involved, really more because I thought I would have to remove the motor/trans to do the job. After thinking about it and looking at what it would entail I decided to run the repair myself, in my driveway. This last fact changed mere days before I was set to run the repair when after a brief discussion with Andy at AutoWorks(Oakville) offered to let me take up some space in his shop to re and re. Let me tell you that having access to a hoist and air tools is vital to doing this kind of work. I think it would have taken me much longer to complete on my back with motormaster chrome in my hand.

After thinking about it some more, and looking at pictures of my build, I decided that I did not need to remove the whole motor/trans to replace piston #7. All I had to do was remove the break booster/master and the head should come right off with full access to all bolts. I also had to disconnect the header from the exhaust to allow for enough movement for access. I could not completely remove the header as there is a steering shaft threaded through it.

To take the oil pan off we had to put a span hoist on the fenders to take the weight of the motor and disconnect the subframe. Once we had access to the pan we could remove the rod bolts and slide the piston out the top.

So I was expecting to see a hole in the piston but once I took it out this is what I found;
Photobucket
Needless to say I was rather surprised at how much was missing and that the rest of the motor was still operable. Essentially I have been told it was a result of way way too much timing by the first guy that tuned. I only found one piece larger than shavings in the oil pan, but there was a good amount of shavings in the bottom. To be honest I'm lucky none of it got caught in the rotating assembly. I inspected the entire bottom end before buttoning it all back up and it looked good.

So after the guys at Champion Motors gave me a tested low mileage replacement I went to put it all back together. So I checked the sleeve for major damage and found;
Photobucket
Not to bad at all, in fact it still had the cross hatch. After a very light bore, to allow the new rings to seat, and some sore thumbs from cleaning gasket we were all set.
Photobucket

Unfortunately I do not have pics from assembly; but as Bentley says it is the reverse of removal. a new HG and some head bolts and it was all back together and good.

I ran the car out to Mosport both Saturday and Sunday to assist with the Trillium ADT school. no problems even took it on the skid pad to have some fun. Fun did indeed ensue but was short lived as I had to attend to my duties. So I brought it back to Champion to complete the tune the following week only to find that a noise had developed beyond the normal sewing machine typical of the LS valvetrain.

Champion has mad a few suggestions and I did some research. After a few hours of diagnosis I had come to the conclusion it was a collapsed lifter on the passenger side head. This was confirmed with a spongy response from the lifter when pressing down on the pushrod on the roller of cylinder #8.
So it is time to replace the lifters. I did a bit more searching and apparently the LS7 lifters are the stock replacement for the LS1/2/6/etc. The LS1/6 lifters are known to collapse under higher spring pressure. As I had changed the springs when I did the cam it should have been expected, but I did not know at the time. So because the LS7 is the replacement it does not mean they are exactly the same. The oil port on the LS6 lifter for example is in a different location than the LS1/6 lifter;
Photobucket
LS7 lifter on left.

So with the LS7 lifters were installed and the rod girdles put back in place some more gasket cleaning and sore thumbs meant it was all ready to be reassembled. I am only doing one side for now. I will wait for the other side to fail or for a longer break in between events to complete the drivers side.
The LS7 lifters should be good up to 7200RPM. Eventually I would like to upgrade them beyond GM parts and turn the motor to 8k but that's likely to be part of a winter build.
Photobucket

That is were I left off yesterday. The HG should be here today and I already picked up a set of ARP head bolts. So I can reassemble tonight and re-tune at Champion tomorrow. All this in hopes of attending the cruise on Saturday. Fingers crossed no more funny noises before the dyno.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:32 AM   #98
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Aug 27 Update

Ok so its been a while since the last update; here is what happened.

I got the car back together and Champion tuned it again but it put down about the same power. So I removed the engine and delivered it to Champion for a dismantle and diagnosis. Champion found that the pistons were out of round so after replacing the bearings, pistons and rings they gave it back. The engine was not as advertised when I bought it. I was told by the shop originally the motor only had 16k kms. With the condition it seems it was more like 160k kms.

Lesson: Be careful when you guys by big ticket items anywhere. While I have no physical proof I bought this engine from Auto Evolution, because its not on the invoice, I can assure everyone I did. I had asked the shop to run the typical tests, leakdown and compression. I was told the motor was good, I trusted the shop so I assumed that meant the tests were ok, but it was a lie. Never take delivery of anything big, like an engine, without physical proof of its condition despite how close you think you are with the owner/employees.

So I got the motor back and into the car and have been driving it around the last three weeks. Power seemed really strong, but I did not really wring it out as I was trying to set the rings. Kept it blow 2.5k RPM and ran diesel oil for the first 500kms. Last week we switched it to regular non-synthetic and I started pushing it a bit more. And this simply put a bigger smile on my face. I brought the car to Bimmercruise yesterday despite a power draw issue but a localized generator and a battery charger kept me going just long enough for the AutoX and a dyno.

The AutoX was good, despite a spin and an off, and I was happy to finally be back on track after missing 3/4 of the season. Then when I went to dyno I got a pleasant surprise, after a tremendous punch in the gut.

First Run - Not recorded due to power failure
Second Run - 345HP and 358TQ - Punch in gut.
Third Run - 345HP and 398TQ - WTF?
Fourth Run - 407HP and 418TQ - Pleasant surprise.

I will say these are STD numbers so SAE may be slightly lower. I would believe the second and third runs to be true however if you look at the graph their are clearly parts missing, so I can only assume they are incorrect relating somehow to the power failure of the first run. The car definitely feels to have significantly more power than the last time it dynoed at 340. The runs I've had against some cars on this forum further confirm that. I will post a vid of the last run when I get it sometime tonight.

Until then, graph is attached.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf img-827082248-0001.pdf (244.5 KB, 21 views)
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:40 PM   #99
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The runs I've had against some cars on this forum further confirm that. .
You're too polite Dan. FTR, Danimal pulled 1 bus-length on my M3 last week (through 1 gear!). Apparently he short-shifted too
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:01 PM   #100
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curious how you chose your "break in" method.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:42 PM   #101
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curious how you chose your "break in" method.
That's what Champion Motors suggested. Everyone I have asked has recommended non-synthetic for the first few changes. The only new thing to my ears was diesel oil for the first 500kms. I believe it has to do with the zinc content which helps tremendously with metal to metal contact during the break in period.

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You're too polite Dan. FTR, Danimal pulled 1 bus-length on my M3 last week (through 1 gear!). Apparently he short-shifted too
Due to a misleading tach I did not short shift as much as I first thought. It was fun though. Ran into a Hellrot E36 coupe after the meet who had no idea what he was getting into. Valiant effort by the driver, must have had a charger/turbo, but I think the extra three people in the car kept it from being close.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:55 PM   #102
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Yup, I was told the same thing by the oil guru at Joe Gibbs. He said the break-in period is critical for getting the fresh metal bits "saturated" with the additive. That's why their break-in oil, while made of dinosaurs, has an extremely high additive package.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:12 PM   #103
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curious how you chose your "break in" method.
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That's what Champion Motors suggested. Everyone I have asked has recommended non-synthetic for the first few changes. The only new thing to my ears was diesel oil for the first 500kms. I believe it has to do with the zinc content which helps tremendously with metal to metal contact during the break in period.
I have a feeling the part SiR is wondering about is the "...Kept it blow 2.5k RPM... for the first 500km" part. It's the hard vs soft break in debate.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:24 PM   #104
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^^lol Bullet is right.

Im down with the non synthetic/higher zinc content on break in but I think the mototune break in method makes more sense.
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:05 PM   #105
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I have a feeling the part SiR is wondering about is the "...Kept it blow 2.5k RPM... for the first 500km" part. It's the hard vs soft break in debate.
Ah. I was afraid if I ran it up too much the cylinder walls would glaze and the rings would never set. I'm not sure how much it actually matters as I dont know of a way to test it empirically.
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