84 s52 e30 build - Page 14

cormier · 05-19-2012, 11:17 AM

I used the adapter piece from turner --

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-36...e-adapter.aspx

Worked like a charm super easy

Still need to find a plug for the hose going to the TB circuit, would rather not use a bolt or something ghetto

e30_kid89 · 05-19-2012, 11:41 AM

The adapter is not needed. I used the steel obd2 spider hose on my obd1 converted m52 works just fine!

cormier · 05-19-2012, 01:17 PM

Hmm why does everyone say that those hoses aren't compatible? Good if it works

cormier · 05-23-2012, 09:46 PM

And projects just don't want to cooperate.

The adapter from M12 to 1/8npt27 (needed to put my water to sender where my tb heater goes) does not fit.

It's from bimmerworld, for this purpose specifically. The sender still doesn't fit through. I ended up drilling it out a bit more and the sender fit, but the threads were really tough and I feel like I'm tapping the fitting :s

The sender is also shorter than the adapter-- even installed in the head it's not going to get anything flowing past.

I'm thinking of just running a hose from there to the OEM spider hose and going for an in-line setup instead of the stupidness that has been trying to put it in the head.

Also got brand new OEM fuel lines as mine were looking well used, and it seems like changing the vent line will require dropping the tank by an inch or two

-- new tank in the past few years but it looks like one of the bolts was stripped going on

(

Take the rear wheel off for a better view and find this

No, don't know what happened but looks like it was caught in the spring or something -- such an idiot

Not a great day :p

Upswing: brake lines almost complete in the front while the booster was mocked up, and I have begun the wire tuck process. Not as bad as I was expecting, but nothing picture-worthy yet.

M3 firewall cover also on order so I can get the harness on the motor buckled down and ready for insertion

cormier · 06-10-2012, 10:42 AM

So after slowing down on this slightly (too much stress and deadlines just aren't good for you), we're back out here working

Finished the new brake lines, which I wanted to do before the motor was to drop

The old nasty corner of my engine bay was my least favorite before the swap but it looks like its going to turn into my most favorite with all the brand new shiny stuff there lol

We also put new clips on the brake line fittings so everythings nice and secure

Old fuel lines got dropped after a bit of time screwing with the old clamps. New ones went in without a problem (will get new clamps but just mocked up for fitting of the other components)

Still need to fit the two filters and external pump at the other end of the hard fuel lines and figure out the best way to mount the charcoal canister in that same corner of the bay :s

Instead of dropping the whole vent line from above the tank (it's just the stupid vent anyways), we cut the new line and will join with a hose.

On the motor side of things, drilled out that stupid BW adapter and mounted the sender in it and into the head. Not very confident on it but it there are problems we'll deal when we hit them. Manifold is now ready to go on, motor ready to be lifted and mated to tranny.

Other stuff to finish before dropping in: steering rack install (woohoo I think that's actually it lol)

Gettin so close! K now for wayyytoo many pictures curtesy of my new iPad

Hoping to work most of this week and have the motor fitted by Friday

DIY · 06-10-2012, 11:39 PM

looks awesome! keep it up!

cormier · 06-11-2012, 11:58 AM

Thanks dude!

Got this mess sorted out yesterday too -- looks much nicer and more secure than before, I wish I had the time to drum up an in-trunk custom system I love looking at pictures of those. Oh well, this will work just fine.

Also managed to fit both filters in this area so that the charcoal canister is all that has to go below the booster. Got that mounted just with zip-ties as well but no pictures. Ah the pains of a two-pump system...

Real injection hose used throughout

My e46 needs some lovin too-- so in for an oil change at bimmersport tomorrow morning then right back out there to get the rack in

cormier · 07-14-2012, 08:44 PM

So a little confused about my Konis... Not much install info out there and the stupid instructions are all cryptic :p

The collar will only thread down this far

It bottoms out on the body of the insert

I'm wondering if that's what it's referring to here under III, it says up to 1-4mm gap?

I'm thinking of just cutting down the collar piece to fit...

Side note but is it referring to antifreeze or cold water or something on the top left of that diagram?

Also gotta find one of those tools to tighten it down or else make one or something...

BrianM · 07-15-2012, 09:21 AM

yeeesh, I'd have a hard go at making heads or tails of those diagrams, but enjoying the pics as it's coming along. I've been wondering how your project has been going!

Axxe · 07-15-2012, 06:45 PM

Late model strut housings? "I" style is larger diameter, might be the issue here. Did you try reusing the stock lock ring?

cormier · 07-15-2012, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Axxe

Late model strut housings? "I" style is larger diameter, might be the issue here. Did you try reusing the stock lock ring?

Lock ring you mean the threaded collar piece? The old ones were destroyed... These are late model strut housings with late model front inserts. I had tried them in my stock housings and found out the diameter issue a while ago :p. the diameter will prevent the strut from going in at all so I got these used housings off a late model

The collars are brand new OEM :s

Strange part is that it looks like the struts are flush with the top of the housings, so I don't see how the collars could possibly fit :s

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianM

yeeesh, I'd have a hard go at making heads or tails of those diagrams, but enjoying the pics as it's coming along. I've been wondering how your project has been going!

Ya the diagrams are pretty messed :p

Project as a whole has slowed down considerably with the extra distractions of summer but hoping to get ahead soon!

cormier · 07-16-2012, 01:17 PM

Posted on r3v with some good response so far, I think the gap is normal and I'll tighten down onto the insert

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=255731

Bullet Ride · 07-16-2012, 02:02 PM

Yeah, I recently re-built a set of front housings and had the same thing happen with KYB shocks. It's because they changed the gland nut design. I preferred the old design with the hex outside (I like the gland nut that comes with the GC coils the most). But if you think about it you do want a gap because there you want the gland nut to be pushing against the shock, not bottoming on the housing.

cormier · 07-19-2012, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullet Ride

Yeah, I recently re-built a set of front housings and had the same thing happen with KYB shocks. It's because they changed the gland nut design. I preferred the old design with the hex outside (I like the gland nut that comes with the GC coils the most). But if you think about it you do want a gap because there you want the gland nut to be pushing against the shock, not bottoming on the housing.

Thanks dude, ya I tightened them as much as I could, will keep my eyes out for something better to use.

cormier · 07-19-2012, 09:32 PM

Bit of progress over the last few days

Got the rack bolted up! No modification to the knuckle necessary. New guibo and hardware as well.

Strut assemblies back in with UUC camber plates

On the engine side: UUC st.2 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate installed. Tranny mounted after new T/O bearing, pin, tube and seal. Slave and starter also attached.

Some Pix!

Also thinking into the electrical. I have a few ideas about the wire tuck that I'll post when I compile my thoughts lol.