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Old 03-12-2012, 02:08 PM   #1
new2bmw
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Buying E36 328i?????

I was just wondering if there is a thread on buying an e36 like there is for buying an e30, things to look for etc? Also, i am confused as to obd 1 and 2 e36's. not sure which e36 or what years got the obd1 or 2 and is it better to go with an obd1 car and just put a chip in it to get a performance increase as opposed to having the ecu remapped if your mod budget is very limited? I know I am very lost here, help me out guys.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:48 PM   #2
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Have you checked bimmerforums or used google? Obd II is 96+, and there are good tuning options for both now
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:23 PM   #3
new2bmw
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yes

i have been roaming around reading a bit here and there to kind of get a feel for the cars. It seems the e36 is def ruling out a b5 audi a4. I just wasnt sure if it was easier to just chip an obd1 when i can and get the power from that or go with obd2. I mean, will a chipped obd1 be a better car , power/torque etc then a stock obd2? not sure if that makes any sense hopefully you get what i am saying. I expect to sound a little slow when trying to learn about something new lol. Thanks for replying, i have been following your build, You have almost inspired me to get off my butt.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:31 PM   #4
noodles101
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obd1 = m50, obd2 = m52?
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:49 PM   #5
new2bmw
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ty

thank you for that. Now other then torque is their any massive pros or cons to buying an m52 over m50 or vice verse? I have read about swapping the m50 manifold onto m52 but thats about all i know for easy to do cheap mods so far. Its like the saab 9000 i am selling, an ecu and a couple other parts and for like $100 you get like 50hp, had no idea when i bought it, just wondering how many cars are out there with little power secrets.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:37 PM   #6
iverson03tj
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i would get the 328 m52 I like mine
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e39 M5 (s62)- Muffler Delete, Timmay Tips,
e30 325ic - Hard Top, Matte Black
e36 328is - (m52)AA S/c'd, M50 Mani, 3.23 LSD, M3 Brakes, Zimmer rotors, hps pads, Racing Dynamic Strut Bar, Depos, m3 Bumper, Intake, Spal fan, poly RTABs, Eibach Swaybars, Koni yellow, Mishimoto Rad, Silicone hose, Alumi T-housing, Depo w/LED Angels, LED tails, 12' Alpine Type R, Suede head liner, LTW Low rise spoiler
PREVIOUS CARS
92' 325is (m52) - M3 conversion AA S/c'd
'97 Euro Estroil E36 M3 Vert (S50B32)
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #7
iverson03tj
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http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticle...ine/index.html
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e39 M5 (s62)- Muffler Delete, Timmay Tips,
e30 325ic - Hard Top, Matte Black
e36 328is - (m52)AA S/c'd, M50 Mani, 3.23 LSD, M3 Brakes, Zimmer rotors, hps pads, Racing Dynamic Strut Bar, Depos, m3 Bumper, Intake, Spal fan, poly RTABs, Eibach Swaybars, Koni yellow, Mishimoto Rad, Silicone hose, Alumi T-housing, Depo w/LED Angels, LED tails, 12' Alpine Type R, Suede head liner, LTW Low rise spoiler
PREVIOUS CARS
92' 325is (m52) - M3 conversion AA S/c'd
'97 Euro Estroil E36 M3 Vert (S50B32)
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:44 PM   #8
cormier
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Have you checked this one? If something good comes up thats priced well I wouldn't even worry too much about obd1 vs 2, take what you can get lol
http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149114
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:38 AM   #9
bimmer325
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Get the car a independent inspection. Spent a little more now this will save you from buying a lemon.
call lee's autoworks in oshawa 905-240-8820.. very reasonable rate for a full inspection.
www.drive-more-fix-less.com
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:10 PM   #10
328IScreamer
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Your going to want to check strut towers for cracking etc. especially if there are aftermarket shocks.

Check if obc has all it's pixels (not a big deal but is annoying)

Make sure clutch fan is still in the car and if not ask if proper clutch fan removal kit was installed

Make sure hood, and trunk close without rubbing or scraping and line up evenly with lines of car

look that the jack point caps are still there, also a bonus if all tools are still in toolbox in trunk

ensure clutch still grabs.....rare to see them lasting much past 200k

ask when bushings and water pump were last replaced......very common to go bad in higher km e36s

ensure key locks and unlocks each door and trunk.....good way of telling if a different door or trunk has been installed

subframe issues are also common issues in older e36s but it's hard to check for if it hasn't already come apart.....just make sure there is no "clunking" in the rear end

make sure it shifts tight and smooth, all gears line up where they are supposed to

I'm sure I'm missing some but I have bought and sold a few e36s now as well as a few freinds of mine so I have been exposed to almost every issue in the book.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:27 PM   #11
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http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?...d=24&Itemid=55

and get a PPI at a place like rmp
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