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Old 03-12-2012, 05:32 PM   #16
Bullet Ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteDice View Post
haha... yes I talked myself backwards there, what I meant was,

DIAMETERS:
BIGGEST --------------- Smallest
Exhaust Port.....Gasket.....Head

We're not talking a wall here, more like a very small .5 - 1mm lip.

That way the flow steps out to the larger area... when/if you get back flow it will hit the lip but that's not important.
That makes more sense

That's what I did as well, except I left the port diameter in the head about 2mm smaller all the way around to account for the ability of the exhaust gasket to shift. I don't want any overlapping of the gasket and the port in the head.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:35 PM   #17
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Not sure if you mentioned it, but you probably also want to port match the intake manifold ports to the gasket also.

I remember doing that when I built an m20, no idea if there were any gains from it, but it didn't hurt.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:15 PM   #18
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Steve, you should put this m20 in a boat!









































This will help you determine how much chain you will need for it to safely reach the bottom:



Just kidding, good work
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:24 PM   #19
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Not sure if you mentioned it, but you probably also want to port match the intake manifold ports to the gasket also.

I remember doing that when I built an m20, no idea if there were any gains from it, but it didn't hurt.
I did mention it. That's the plan

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Steve, you should put this m20 in a boat!

This will help you determine how much chain you will need for it to safely reach the bottom:



Just kidding, good work

I'll use the 325e block and crank as a boat anchor unless someone wants to buy them. I also have two 325e heads.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:11 PM   #20
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May i recomend?.....

GsxR 750 & 1000 from 2000-2003

750 & 1000 are essentially the same

80mm spacing between bore centres

48mm ID, 54mm OD at inlet

42mm ID, 48mm OD at exit

You might want to use those bc they can seperate individually and respace as needed...
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:11 PM   #21
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May i recomend?.....

GsxR 750 & 1000 from 2000-2003

750 & 1000 are essentially the same

80mm spacing between bore centres

48mm ID, 54mm OD at inlet

42mm ID, 48mm OD at exit

You might want to use those bc they can seperate individually and respace as needed...
That's good info. I'm definitely looking for individual, individual throttle bodies lol. Thanks Bruno.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:43 PM   #22
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That's good info. I'm definitely looking for individual, individual throttle bodies lol. Thanks Bruno.


And here is another helping hand for you....

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RC-2344

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Old 03-13-2012, 12:35 AM   #23
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And here is another helping hand for you....

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RC-2344

Nah when I go itb I'm definitely going with itg socks
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:43 AM   #24
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Baller! I can't wait to hear this scream!
If your gonna get new rockers why not new springs too? Then some 9000 RPM fun
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:44 AM   #25
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Nah when I go itb I'm definitely going with itg socks
Nice! I was looking for something like that to go over velocity stacks.. But couldnt find a good source for stacks with a bug screen
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:12 AM   #26
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Baller! I can't wait to hear this scream!
If your gonna get new rockers why not new springs too? Then some 9000 RPM fun
I am getting new springs, but just oem ones, not upgraded ones. I ended up buying a Schrick 284/272 cam and although upgraded springs are recommended I've seen the same cam used on stock springs go up to 7500rpm. I'm not really interested (at least not yet ) in going over 7000rpm since the stock tach only goes up to 7000rpm and without some port work and itbs the head most likely won't flow enough to be useful past that rpm anyway.

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Nice! I was looking for something like that to go over velocity stacks.. But couldnt find a good source for stacks with a bug screen
Yeah I was thinking about that the other day too, I'd want a few sets of stacks with different lengths and then try each on the dyno but they can be expensive. I was thinking about making my own, put some thin walled stainless tube on a lathe and use some sort of mandrel to flare it out then roll the edge. As I said that's going to be a whole other project....
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:54 AM   #27
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This might save you a little time and money....

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=294784
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:05 AM   #28
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http://www.vibrantperformance.com/main.php Amazing array of parts.

Bought my whole exhaust system from them, decent prices, good items and Canadian company.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:35 AM   #29
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http://www.vibrantperformance.com/main.php Amazing array of parts.

Bought my whole exhaust system from them, decent prices, good items and Canadian company.
This will come in handy if I end up deciding to do my own exhaust.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:53 AM   #30
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This might save you a little time and money....
Hey Bruno you try that aluminum soilder yet on your intake (from vibrant)? If it works steve could prob use it too..

http://www.aptuned.com/18960
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