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Old 03-02-2012, 12:29 PM   #46
Aero
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That's me! Unfortunately the low ratio LSD I had was sold a while ago, but please let me know if you would like to sell the 3.91 LSD!
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:31 PM   #47
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Lookin good! Thanks I was hopin for 1/8!
i put my coolant temp sensor in the head..its M12x1.5 I ordered a special brass fitting that went from M12x1.5(same thread as your lug bolts) to the 1/8th npt... i forget the website but pretty sure it was from oregon...just do a search on google..
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:25 PM   #48
iverson03tj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3x Beemer View Post
i put my coolant temp sensor in the head..its M12x1.5 I ordered a special brass fitting that went from M12x1.5(same thread as your lug bolts) to the 1/8th npt... i forget the website but pretty sure it was from oregon...just do a search on google..
How do you do this? and do i have to tap into anything.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:43 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3x Beemer View Post
i put my coolant temp sensor in the head..its M12x1.5 I ordered a special brass fitting that went from M12x1.5(same thread as your lug bolts) to the 1/8th npt... i forget the website but pretty sure it was from oregon...just do a search on google..
Ya just checked today and 1/8npt is too small. Thanks for the sizing! I think VDO has an adapter kit as well.

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How do you do this? and do i have to tap into anything.
We're talking about the port underneath intake ports 2/3. If you remove it (delete the Throttle body heating circuit) you can put a gauge sender in.

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Old 03-04-2012, 11:16 PM   #50
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How do you do this? and do i have to tap into anything.
as cormier said no you don't have to tap into anything you're deleting the throttle body heat circuit,(i dont winter my e36 so no big deal) and you have to cap the return line.. kind of hard to explain on here you'd have to see it first hand. sorry to thread jack.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:42 AM   #51
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ok, so is the throttle body heat circuit really important for winter driving? and where is the return line?
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:03 AM   #52
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The return line comes right off the throttle body beside the line going in. It comes off the block, through the aux thermostat in your air intake, and into the throttle body. It then goes back into a main coolant line underneath the intake manifold.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:31 PM   #53
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So I am having a dilemma of which coilovers to buy. The two I am deciding between is the Koni Sport Kit or the FK Sport Edtition Plus. The Koni's are about $150 cheaper but don't offer adjustable ride height, which doesn't bother me too much. I am more concerned with being able to adjust dampening.

And the Koni Kit is even cheaper on tire rack right now for $693.

Anyone have first hand experience with either of them?

Last edited by nate_s89; 03-06-2012 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:13 PM   #54
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Got some work done today.

The engine and transmission are out.



And once out the car was pushed back into the driveway to make room for the engine build.


Unfortunately the bolts that mount the transmission are not long enough to be used for the stand so I have to find some new ones.
The two money pits sitting in the driveway


Still trying to figure out what to do suspension wise so if anyone has any suggestions in regards to the Koni sport kit or the FK Sport Edition Plus please let me know!
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:52 PM   #55
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More progress today. Got the engine torn down and just need to get it cleaned up and I can start reassembling.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what I should use to clean the block, pistons, and cylinder walls?






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Old 03-17-2012, 10:59 PM   #56
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More progress today. Got the engine torn down and just need to get it cleaned up and I can start reassembling.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what I should use to clean the block, pistons, and cylinder walls?
By cleaning the cylinders, I hope you mean honing! You really should run a hone through them before you reassemble. The pattern is needed to properly break new rings in. A shop can hot tank, clean, and hone the cylinders for like $150. Well worth it.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:57 PM   #57
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+1. Strip the block and bring it to a maching shop to have it cleaned & honed.

For everything else, I used superclean (purple bottle). The pistons had a LOT of build up on them so i soaked them in diesel fuel for 2 days to help loosen it all up.
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:12 PM   #58
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Thanks for the input guys.

I opted to do it myself. Went and bought a honing tool, worked pretty well. Ran into an issue with a little step at the top of the cylinder wall. With the longer stroked pistons they were hitting it at the top and not going any further. I went over it with the honing tool and it removed it thankfully. Just have to finish honing the rest of the cylinders and reassembling will continue.

Hope to have it in the car by the end of next weekend if no more issues arise.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:40 AM   #59
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So after I removed the step on one of the cylinder walls, I measured the bore and sure enough it was out of spec. Turns out the little steps at the tops of the walls were really big steps.

Ended up getting a new complete bottom end last night for $100 that has no wear. So I hope to tear it down tonight, hone, and start reassembly after work tomorrow.

Ideally if all goes well it may be assembled and in the car by Sunday night!
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:47 AM   #60
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NIce progress!!

good to see some real work getting done diy around here!


Ive torn down engines and put in new pistons rings without a hone...was fine. YMMV though
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