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08-02-2011, 11:52 PM
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#1
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: GTA
Posts: 337
Car: E46 M-Technik
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"" How Much To Pay For A Clean E30 ? ""
What should I pay for a clean E30?
The car is a '91 318is NO RUST at all.
Solid underbody
All original and maintained. No aftermarket crap at all.
170k 3 owners
Thank you.
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08-03-2011, 12:09 AM
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#2
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Parts Hoarding Specialist
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Milton
Posts: 2,325
Car: '91 318i, '91 318is
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First, tell me where it is so I can buy it out from underneath you.
$4500 would probably do the trick.
__________________
1986 E30 325e (killed)
1986 E30 325es (died)
1988 E30 325i (rotted)
1992 E34 525i (sold)
1992 E30 318i (cabrio, Dad's)
1989 E30 325i (Mom's)
1991 E30 318i (cabrio, summer car)
1991 E30 318is (Winter car)
1992 Euro M5 (driveway decoration)
1994 E36 325is (driveway junk)
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08-03-2011, 12:13 AM
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#3
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Port Perry
Posts: 7,111
Car: God's Chariot
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Sounds like a good car. All original paint too? I want. Scott is right on the money for price. Anything more than 5-6k for a stock car is a bit much. And a 318 at that (sorry Scott  )
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08-03-2011, 04:42 PM
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#4
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: GTA
Posts: 337
Car: E46 M-Technik
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I'd love to show the car, but I really like it and hope I can get it.
The car was repainted a factory color. I wouldbt want an original paint anyway, 20 years of sun does preserve the paint well...
I also wanted to ask about E30 in general. Not really concerned about maintenance or reliability but more about integrity of the car itself.
How are the front and rear subframes? do they hold?
How much power you think the rear will hold (diff and subfloor).
Front/rear towers ? any known issues.
It could be a dumb question but Ive been so busy focusing on newer BMWs that Ive completely neglected the old ones.
Thanks
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08-03-2011, 04:53 PM
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#5
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Classifieds Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: T.Dot
Posts: 8,748
Car: e36 m3
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Since it is repainted the value is lowered. I'd take rust free original paint even if it is faded. It could have been a crappy paint job just to cover up rust.
__________________
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08-03-2011, 04:57 PM
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#6
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: GTA
Posts: 337
Car: E46 M-Technik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30
Since it is repainted the value is lowered. I'd take rust free original paint even if it is faded. It could have been a crappy paint job just to cover up rust.
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I will check on that for sure as well.
But assuming its not the case, what would the value be?
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08-03-2011, 07:13 PM
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#7
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Port Perry
Posts: 7,111
Car: God's Chariot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new member
I'd love to show the car, but I really like it and hope I can get it.
The car was repainted a factory color. I wouldbt want an original paint anyway, 20 years of sun does preserve the paint well...
I also wanted to ask about E30 in general. Not really concerned about maintenance or reliability but more about integrity of the car itself.
How are the front and rear subframes? do they hold?
How much power you think the rear will hold (diff and subfloor).
Front/rear towers ? any known issues.
It could be a dumb question but Ive been so busy focusing on newer BMWs that Ive completely neglected the old ones.
Thanks
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Most of this is gathered from seeing what happens to E30s with track experience:
Front subframe: motor mount ears crack off long before the sway bar brackets break off (which can happen with monster bars). You can buy reinforcement plates from Turner, BW, etc much like it is for the E36/46.
Rear subframes are fine, unless they are rusty. Rear floor failures don't happen to E30s like they do E36/46. Worst that happens is the diff mount tab tears out, but you need an abusive driver and a ton of HP to make it happen. More commonly seen on M Roadsters and such.
Front Towers are more less the same strength as E36/46. The tops can mushroom if hit hard enough. Look around for rust near the towers... good places for it to hide. Rear towers don't have much problems, maybe if driven with broken shock mounts for a long time it may start to crack, much like E36/46.
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08-03-2011, 07:27 PM
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#8
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: GTA
Posts: 337
Car: E46 M-Technik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craz azn
Most of this is gathered from seeing what happens to E30s with track experience:
Front subframe: motor mount ears crack off long before the sway bar brackets break off (which can happen with monster bars). You can buy reinforcement plates from Turner, BW, etc much like it is for the E36/46.
Rear subframes are fine, unless they are rusty. Rear floor failures don't happen to E30s like they do E36/46. Worst that happens is the diff mount tab tears out, but you need an abusive driver and a ton of HP to make it happen. More commonly seen on M Roadsters and such.
Front Towers are more less the same strength as E36/46. The tops can mushroom if hit hard enough. Look around for rust near the towers... good places for it to hide. Rear towers don't have much problems, maybe if driven with broken shock mounts for a long time it may start to crack, much like E36/46.
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Great info, Thanks. If I get this car it probably wont see much track use but I cant speak for the future.
So, how much power you think the diff will take or the subfloor will take? I only ask because I might swap something interesting down the road. There are 2 voices in my head, one says get a clean E30 and keep in stock , other says make it a stock looking monster.
I've got a variety of motors that can go in there if I wanted to raging from 190 to 360hp. just wanted to know if the rear end will take it before being totally reinforced and without buying a new diff.
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08-03-2011, 08:53 PM
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#9
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Port Perry
Posts: 7,111
Car: God's Chariot
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the 318 has the smaller 168mm diff... so you might as well swap right from the get go to the 325 188mm sized diff. Same sized internals as the E36. I don't think any 6 cyl motor will tax any driveline components majorly, even the Euro S50s, S54, etc...
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08-04-2011, 07:15 PM
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#10
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EX E30 M3 Owner
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North York
Posts: 2,356
Car: old skool Hondas
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08-04-2011, 08:11 PM
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#11
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4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 857
Car: E46
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If really CLEAN $3k-$4500 sure, depends on a few things.
__________________
E46
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08-04-2011, 08:23 PM
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#12
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: GTA
Posts: 337
Car: E46 M-Technik
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That car is too expensive, but sure is clean.
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08-05-2011, 06:11 PM
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#13
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Parts Hoarding Specialist
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Milton
Posts: 2,325
Car: '91 318i, '91 318is
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackedout95
If really CLEAN $3k-$4500 sure, depends on a few things.
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Depends if Thorold Imports is selling it. If they are, it's $4500 (but everything will work), if not, $3000.
__________________
1986 E30 325e (killed)
1986 E30 325es (died)
1988 E30 325i (rotted)
1992 E34 525i (sold)
1992 E30 318i (cabrio, Dad's)
1989 E30 325i (Mom's)
1991 E30 318i (cabrio, summer car)
1991 E30 318is (Winter car)
1992 Euro M5 (driveway decoration)
1994 E36 325is (driveway junk)
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08-05-2011, 08:46 PM
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#14
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4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 857
Car: E46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E30M42cab
Depends if Thorold Imports is selling it. If they are, it's $4500 (but everything will work), if not, $3000.
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A beauty left the shop just today!
__________________
E46
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