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Old 04-11-2011, 10:57 AM   #61
bmwconnect
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let me know if you need help
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:17 PM   #62
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Thanks Bear - will do!

i may need your expertise with the wiring harness & definitely with the LC-1 install
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:50 PM   #63
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Fairly straight forward install....
Most important is a nice ground point to reduce noise or interference
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:14 AM   #64
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So I bit the bullet -

Looks like B-class will be a no-go for me this year. I just ordered a set of coilovers - the KW clubsports from Eurotrash's newest sponsor, Perry Performance www.perryautolaval.com

Since I'm now going to end up in A-class, my mods become unlimited. Throughout the season I'll be losing windows in favour of lexan, gutting doors, and maybe adding some carbon fibre bits...

Should be exciting! With that, I can cut the cat out of my exhaust as well and just run a straight pipe. Hopefully it'll pass sound at CMP. And when the Starspecs die, I can get some real rubber!
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:52 AM   #65
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:52 AM   #66
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It will be a battle of the bimmers between you and Ralph's E30. Maybe will bring more bimmer guys to the autox!
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:02 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwconnect View Post
Fairly straight forward install....
Most important is a nice ground point to reduce noise or interference
And make sure to use the SAME ground point as the ECU. Otherwise you will see an offset in the ground voltage based on load and overage voltage. Many people simple ground the LC-1 directly to pin 10 on the ECU in the E30. (The ECU chassis is fine.)

If the heater has its own ground, it can be grounded to something more substantive but there is really no need, it can all be grounded to the ECU.

My ECU is grounded at the shock tower with a factory wire running 22" directly to the ECU. I ground the LC-1 there and tested the ground offset.. it was 0.02V which is still enough to cause a slight mis-reading, but good enough for me. You cannot compensate for offset via calibration because the degree to which it's offset varies with overage voltage and more importantly as the load through the ground circuit changes. Literally turning on the headlights could change the reading.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:29 AM   #68
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^ Awesome - thanks for the advise Jay!

Quote:
Originally Posted by everlast View Post
It will be a battle of the bimmers between you and Ralph's E30. Maybe will bring more bimmer guys to the autox!
It should be fun! There will be a few more bimmers out there this year for sure - Jamie, Chris, a guy named Adam who just picked up an e30 325is... I can't wait to see them all out there
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:21 PM   #69
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Quote:
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^ Awesome - thanks for the advise Jay!



It should be fun! There will be a few more bimmers out there this year for sure - Jamie, Chris, a guy named Adam who just picked up an e30 325is... I can't wait to see them all out there
I think you're forgetting someone
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:11 AM   #70
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Haha my bad Mike!

Also there's another guy in our club, Geoff Chislett, who just purchased a race prepped e36 from the states. Not sure if he's going to bring it out to autoX though.
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:02 AM   #71
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Some pics of the front steering system & subframe (new control arms, tie rods, reinforced subframe).

The engine is in!

It was a bit of a frustrating process, but it is now in it's new home.

First was the pilot bearing in the transmission. Then, Wednesday night, I press the bearing in and am about to bolt the transmission on when the plastic guide pin that holds the throwout bearing fork falls out! Thankfully, Arek had an extra at his shop, so I was able to bolt the transmission on the engine.


Last night was the transplant. The aluminum engine mounts I bought were made to drop the engine by 15mm in order to lower the center of gravity. Well apparently then dropped the engine by over 20mm and it was resting on the subframe and power steering rack. A few shims later, and we were in business. Now that seems easy enough, but the reality was tightening those mounts down was a pain in my a$$! The new headers fit differently and sit right above the engine mounts so it's impossible to get a socket over it. No problem, I'll just remove the header. Not that easy either - apparently the front header doesn't come off unless the rear header does too! After fighting with that, SUCCESS! Next steps include plumbing, wiring, and installing the intake system.
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File Type: jpg DSC07561.JPG (198.9 KB, 262 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07576.JPG (166.1 KB, 261 views)
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:04 AM   #72
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Quote:
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Thank god he put in a racing seat for the ride a long's... GOD DAMN! I hope I fit hahaha
And he does!

Haha a huge thanks to Bear for helping out last night. Tools may have gone flying had he not been there
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:08 AM   #73
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How can you do an engine swap without the "dumbass in the engine bay" shot?! Travesty.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:10 AM   #74
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And he does!

Haha a huge thanks to Bear for helping out last night. Tools may have gone flying had he not been there
no problem!
hell of a dinner! haha
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:14 PM   #75
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More progress was made this weekend:

The engine is in and all closed up! It's been filled with oil - all i'm waiting for is a power steering hose and then I can put the front end back on the car. I swapped the 18# injectors from the M50 manifold to the 24# injectors that came with the M52, and connected all the sensors and coolant hoses. Everything should be good to go.

On the wiring side, I need to finish up sorting out my fusebox, and then that should be ok as well.


Also, I found out what was wrong with my old engine - not only was the valve bent, but a piston was chipped as well! Chris is going to mix and match parts from the two engines to build something solid for his e30.

It's getting close - I'm hoping for a start by the end of the week
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