M3 Brakes...

[ScotcH]

Lots of misinformation in this thread. Here are some facts:

- OE drilled rotors are not drilled ... they are cast that way, and have proper testing and analysis done one them. Most aftermarket cross drilled are actually drilled, and as a result a very much weakened product. They WILL crack, not if, but when.
- Cross drilling is not to help cooling. Initially it was to help off gassing in pads. Modern pads do not offgas, so now it mainly for weight savings.
- Solid rotors offer the best heat dissipation ... there is more mass to act as a heat sink, and they offer more surface area for friction (hence better stopping).
- All the teams I race with use solid rotors (as do we). There is a reason. They work better, and don't fail.
- Slotted is far better than drilled, but you still compromise the rotor to some degree. They are usually used to abrade the pads and keep the glazing off. They will reduce your pad life. If you HAVE to have some bling, get slotted, not drilled.

[JunzieB]

Originally Posted by Mystikal

If you're after performance (and you should be, they're brakes) get solid.

Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30

Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.

Originally Posted by SiR

100% correct

Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30

M3 brakes are not as cheap as 328s.

The slotted/drilled vs solid debate is pointless, so i'm not going to bother, the slight improvement you think you feel is not worth the stress issues and pro-longed use most of us put our brakes through. If you want to change your brakes every season to avoid catastrophic failure on a track, then go ahead.

Originally Posted by Mystikal

They do technically offer better cooling. However, when you toss drilled rotors onto a car not designed for them two things are happening:

1. The surface area for pad contact is now reduced. The factory drilled/slotted rotors are always absolutely massive to compensate for this.

2. The aftermarket rotors people are buying don't come close to the quality of the factory units. Look at the prices of replacement rotors for a car with a proper OE drilled setup, it's insane.

So yes, in theory, drilled and slotted rotors can lead to better fade resistance. However, attempting to achieve those benefits with a stock sized rotor and at any reasonable price point will only hurt performance and durability.

Originally Posted by Mystikal

If you're after performance (and you should be, they're brakes) get solid.

Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30

Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.

Originally Posted by SiR

100% correct

Originally Posted by Mystikal

They do technically offer better cooling. However, when you toss drilled rotors onto a car not designed for them two things are happening:

1. The surface area for pad contact is now reduced. The factory drilled/slotted rotors are always absolutely massive to compensate for this.

2. The aftermarket rotors people are buying don't come close to the quality of the factory units. Look at the prices of replacement rotors for a car with a proper OE drilled setup, it's insane.

So yes, in theory, drilled and slotted rotors can lead to better fade resistance. However, attempting to achieve those benefits with a stock sized rotor and at any reasonable price point will only hurt performance and durability.

Originally Posted by ScotcH

Lots of misinformation in this thread. Here are some facts:

- OE drilled rotors are not drilled ... they are cast that way, and have proper testing and analysis done one them. Most aftermarket cross drilled are actually drilled, and as a result a very much weakened product. They WILL crack, not if, but when.
- Cross drilling is not to help cooling. Initially it was to help off gassing in pads. Modern pads do not offgas, so now it mainly for weight savings.
- Solid rotors offer the best heat dissipation ... there is more mass to act as a heat sink, and they offer more surface area for friction (hence better stopping).
- All the teams I race with use solid rotors (as do we). There is a reason. They work better, and don't fail.
- Slotted is far better than drilled, but you still compromise the rotor to some degree. They are usually used to abrade the pads and keep the glazing off. They will reduce your pad life. If you HAVE to have some bling, get slotted, not drilled.

TDotE30, Mystikal, Sir ans ScotcH have provided both blunt and detailed responses, i hope that you do it right the first time and listen.

The only advantage that you will gain going against their advice is learning through personal experience why OEM blanks along with decent pads over any aftermarket crossed drilled/slotted setup is better, for performance that is.

[doogee]

I've always always put Solid rotors on my car.

But lately I've been wanting to try slotted. Why? Because at the track I'm getting a lot of build up on the rotors. This lasts for weeks. Then I have to drive around with rotors that feel like they're warped.

PBR Ultimates.

[dcramer]

These look interesting http://store.bimmerworld.com/perform...tors-p608.aspx

Nice thing is that after you buy the first ones you only need to buy rotors after that.

Thoughts? Can these be had in Canada ?

[yellowfever3]

Scotch has it right 100%. Slotted in my opinion is the best choice. But for regular street use, cant get better than solid. I'm gonna just go with a solid set of zimmerman rotors and hawk hps pads. All in for the fronts $300 taxes in. After thinking about it, im gonna be on the track maybe 4 times this season. Each of those times i will not be driving the car to its full potential anyways. so all around, solid best choice! thanks for all the input guys and gals!

[doogee]

Originally Posted by dcramer

These look interesting http://store.bimmerworld.com/perform...tors-p608.aspx

Nice thing is that after you buy the first ones you only need to buy rotors after that.

Thoughts? Can these be had in Canada ?

Yes Bimmerworld ships to Canada.