e30 - problem starting

Ceeker · 11-22-2010, 11:26 AM

Car ran fine - well maintained I removed a cable from the fuse block and saw a spark. Replaced it and now the car cranks but doesn't start. I opened up the shrink tube on the 50amp fuse near the battery and it doesn't seem like anything is wrong with it. How can one tell if the fuseable is blown? I traced the other lines and don't believe there is another one to locate? All the fuses in in the fuse box are good.

Help would be appreciated since this is the last day of mind weather and I'm outside..LOL.

everlast · 11-22-2010, 12:29 PM

Do you have a multimeter? Test for 12V on the hot side of the fuses to make sure you didn't blow a fuse link somewhere else.. Try jumping the main relay in case its cacked. Pull a spark plug wire, hold it near ground (1cm away from any grounded metal) crank and check for spark.

*might* be the ECU though. While in my experience its almost never the ECU, large sparks tend to create voltage spikes that toast things electronic.

K///Mikes · 11-22-2010, 12:58 PM

+1 on what everlast said, u can also test a fuse by using a multimeter by using the tone setting or the ohm's settin, take the fuse out n put one lead on one side, the other lead on the other and if u get a beep then its good, if u dont then it may be blown, if using the ohm setting, and the fuse is blown u will get an infinit ohm reading, if not blown u will show almost no to little ohm resistance.

Ceeker · 11-22-2010, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K///Mikes

+1 on what everlast said, u can also test a fuse by using a multimeter by using the tone setting or the ohm's settin, take the fuse out n put one lead on one side, the other lead on the other and if u get a beep then its good, if u dont then it may be blown, if using the ohm setting, and the fuse is blown u will get an infinit ohm reading, if not blown u will show almost no to little ohm resistance.

thanks guys...!! upon closer inspection and a test with a test probe found no power going to car. Cut it out and shows its blown. I was hopin and prayin it was this cause I wasn't about to go through testing everything.lol.

Ceeker · 11-22-2010, 01:34 PM

what is the best option here: I have a spare which I cut from my parts car. Do I solder it back with heat shrink or can I just crimp it will connectors and heat shrink?

everlast · 11-22-2010, 02:16 PM

To clarify what "it" is, you're talking about what exactly? A fuse link near the battery?

If you're talking about the large gauge wire, I'd do a solder job myself, with shrink wrap. For this type of thing, I usually strip about 1" of wire, spread the strands apart on each that I'm going to connect, and slip them together end to end, then twist them back into a tight bundle. Note that this means there is twice as much material there, plus solder, so your shrink wrap has to be about a 3:1 reduction when shrunk at minimum.

Ceeker · 11-22-2010, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by everlast

To clarify what "it" is, you're talking about what exactly? A fuse link near the battery?

If you're talking about the large gauge wire, I'd do a solder job myself, with shrink wrap. For this type of thing, I usually strip about 1" of wire, spread the strands apart on each that I'm going to connect, and slip them together end to end, then twist them back into a tight bundle. Note that this means there is twice as much material there, plus solder, so your shrink wrap has to be about a 3:1 reduction when shrunk at minimum.

Yes, I would say that is the thorough method and the way I also do it. But I bought a heat shrink/solder connector. When crimped and heated up melts the solder crimp and then shrinks around it. Way easier and I actually managed to get additional heat shrink around it and worked great! thanks for the tip. :-)