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Old 10-19-2002, 04:51 AM   #1
e46it
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Adjusting the handbrake

To adjust the handbrake you need to carefully pull up the leather gaiter by the rear of the base base and pull out of the way it turn until it's inside out. Put the car in 5th gear and slowly release the handbrake. Undo the top locking nut and adjust the handbrake travel by tightening or loosening the lower bolts i.e. tightening makes the travel shorter.

The handbrake is adjusted correctly when it takes between 5 and 10 clicks to be fully on, you can check both rear brakes are equally adjusted by slowly rolling the car forwards and stopping it on the handbrake, if you feel it rocks the car, the side that rises first is this side that is braking more than the other so either loosen it off a bit or tighten up the otherside, don't rely on looking at the two threads and adjusting each one until they are equal as this doesn't take into account cable stretch and differing pad wear etc - this can clearly be seen in the picture.

One they are adjusted equally tighten the top locking bolts and clip the handbrake leather gating back into place.
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:18 AM   #2
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It's funny that you just posted that. A week ago I was thinking that I should probably adjust my handbreak because it was getting loose. 2 days ago, when I was driving I saw that the front of the boot was loose so I decided to take it off (flipping it inside out) and saw the 2 adjusters.

I assumed both had to be at the same distance but I'll be sure to go back and check that both breaks engage equally.

Thanks for the post. Very helpful!
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Old 02-14-2008, 10:20 AM   #3
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there are adjusters inside the rear drums also.. I think this is an oversimplified instruction.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:38 AM   #4
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how difficult is it to change the cable
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Old 04-16-2008, 12:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbojangles View Post
there are adjusters inside the rear drums also.. I think this is an oversimplified instruction.
+1

I did this and dident do anything. I think this is just so you can have the brake fully functional faster when pulling up. For me, the wires need to be tightened so this wasent much use. But for people who want the brake to engage quicker then yah... go for it...
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Old 06-20-2008, 12:10 AM   #6
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Did this because I had a ratting in the back. Tightened everything up perfectly but now I don't get a parking brake light on the dash. Weird.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:11 AM   #7
325vert
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Would this be the same for an 95 e36. I'm planning to adjust in the spring, but I was recently told I need to go inside the rear drums to adjust. Any idea on how to do this?
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:26 AM   #8
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how do these guys get away with this?

why flog designer hand bags to car guys? dont they know we already have a lot of hand bags? LOL
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:35 AM   #9
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This is the wrong way to adjust a handbrake IMO. Shouldn't mess with the cables, once it comes time to put in new shoes and crap, you will run out of travel, and will have to adjust the cables yet again.
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Old 07-26-2009, 01:54 PM   #10
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nice post, my ebrake is COMPLETLY done lol
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:00 PM   #11
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You shouldn't have to adjust at the lever unless its not grabbing L+R equal. Other than that you should be adusting throught the bolt hole in the rotors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S62M5 View Post
To adjust the handbrake you need to carefully pull up the leather gaiter by the rear of the base base and pull out of the way it turn until it's inside out. Put the car in 5th gear and slowly release the handbrake. Undo the top locking nut and adjust the handbrake travel by tightening or loosening the lower bolts i.e. tightening makes the travel shorter.

The handbrake is adjusted correctly when it takes between 5 and 10 clicks to be fully on, you can check both rear brakes are equally adjusted by slowly rolling the car forwards and stopping it on the handbrake, if you feel it rocks the car, the side that rises first is this side that is braking more than the other so either loosen it off a bit or tighten up the otherside, don't rely on looking at the two threads and adjusting each one until they are equal as this doesn't take into account cable stretch and differing pad wear etc - this can clearly be seen in the picture.

One they are adjusted equally tighten the top locking bolts and clip the handbrake leather gating back into place.
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:40 PM   #12
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if your light is out, check the tiny switch screwed to the lever, its a plastic piece with metal tab that looks like one of those clips they use over a drilled hole to run a bolt through.(sorry, best explanation) i can take pics if i dont make sense. i put in an armrest and had to move mine, gotta say i love how these cars leave the factory ready for any and all options to just pretty much drop right in!
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craz azn View Post
This is the wrong way to adjust a handbrake IMO. Shouldn't mess with the cables, once it comes time to put in new shoes and crap, you will run out of travel, and will have to adjust the cables yet again.
+1, this is the lazy man's version.

It doesn't actually do a good job, if you adjust it too much using this method it lessens the contact patch of the parking brake shoe, wearing one side of it un-evenly and alot quicker than adjusting it the right way. It also doesn't hold as strong, althou still enough to keep the car still.
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