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Old 02-18-2009, 04:06 AM   #1
commodore64
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Smelly error codes !!! ideas / help

I decided to take out my car and do a nice detailing as it is stored in the winters (beautiful day)

I noticed a very strong idling issue when starting up my e39 (540). The engine was shaking a bit violently, the car was idling very low and would not correct the issue even when the car was warm ...

what I did

checked all plugs / gap (perfect)
cleaned out the ICV (perfect)
checked all fluids / levels
ensured TPS is working / installed correctly
adjusted throttle as needed to correct level
cleaned out throttle body
etc etc


I was still getting some horrible idling / almost a misfiring sound so I did a quick scan with my knock off carsoft 6.5

here we go

135 engine intervention specified engine torque (gearbox intervention)
139 activation map cooling
112- signal camshaft position sensor
126- no info

I had a full rebuild two years ago and have had no issues at all .. so this is a little odd .... Any info would help
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:04 PM   #2
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Whats ICV and TPS? And how did you know throttle needed adjusting?
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:14 PM   #3
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112 says it all...camshaft position sensor
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:55 PM   #4
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myndgone , I had a feeling that it would come down to me replacing the damn CPS

Well it could be a lot worse, at least installation is simple

thanks for the feedback I will pick the part out and post my results
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:56 AM   #5
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Just a quick update

I picked up a Camshaft Position Sensor, and installed (Reset all the codes) .... For about a week I thought the idling of the vehicle was a lot better ... However today when I started the vehicle up it again started to jerk violently (this is in park / or when stopping at a red-light etc) ... Now if I drive the vehicle for about 40 minutes it tends to really calm down ....

I said to myself lets do some more basic work

Changed the plugs (I found some oil on the old plugs) the gaskets had been replaced not long ago

Oil / Filter change

Rad Flush / new fluids

I again checked the ICV and it is perfect, I cleaned up the maf

Installed a new battery to be on the safe side

What could be causing this issue ? I'm leaning towards possibly clogged cats / gaskets are leaking again or possibly a fuel issue (should I replace the fuel filter again / it has been less then two years)

The last issue I can think of is an aftermarket intake system ? Could this be causing a malfunction with the maf / sensors ?

thanks
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:47 AM   #6
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check the coil packs/ignition coils.

if you notice its better in dryer weather vs humid then its ignition/coils.

Intake can cause a problem only if you ran through a mini river.

It can be the MAF also... but see if its better in dry weather.. also after 40 mins if its calmed down then i am thinking coils for sure.

What do the rpms do when its jerky they go up and down or stay put?

Quote:
the vehicle up it again started to jerk violently (this is in park / or when stopping at a red-light etc) ... Now if I drive the vehicle for about 40 minutes it tends to really calm down ....
this sound likes dirty TB.
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:10 PM   #7
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Pork:

Honestly it seems to have more of an issue in the cold .... however regardless cold / hot / wet it will give you that initial hard start / jerking motor (like a misfire)

im going to try and reinstall the stock intake box / clean again the maf just to be on the safe side , however I dont think this is the issue because from what I remember I had a similar problem years ago when I ran a stock intake setup

The rpms go down badly on occasion I have to restart the car as it shuts off, on occasion I also have to hold the gas down a bit so it doesnt turn off

I remember cleaning the throttle body not to long ago, I even inspected the unit not to bad , but you know Ill pick up some cleaner and give it a nice cleaning

ps ..... I have an aftermarket exhaust I dont think that makes an issue , I might take the cats off this weekend and inspect
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:05 PM   #8
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i had to reread your symptoms as lot of people with different cars seem to be having this issue.

I wonder if you got a case of bad gas and all others as well..

I have seen about a dozen or so people complain about the exact problem with their cars.

Those items are the general source of these problems

MAF, TB, Ignition Coils, CAT, O2 etc etc... but if everything else is fine maybe get rid of the gas from your tank somehow... drain it... and put some shell premium and see if you have same problems or not?

Also when cleaning tb make sure to take it off first you dont want the tb cleaner going in the engine i know it says its ok to do so... but i wouldn't do it i have seen some cars causing problems when that was done.
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:59 PM   #9
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Porksoda how tight is that cable suposse to be, that is connected to the trrotlle acutator? Seems as if you could adjust it at the TB. I was messing around one day and cant remember how tight its suppose to be.

Sorry dont mean to jack the thread
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:06 PM   #10
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Coolant level indicator is now on ... even bigger problems

I have never taken my car into a shop as I do the work myself or with my old man ... However I think I have to bite the bullet and find a reputable shop

dammmit
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Old 03-14-2009, 02:42 PM   #11
porksoda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commodore64 View Post
Coolant level indicator is now on ... even bigger problems

I have never taken my car into a shop as I do the work myself or with my old man ... However I think I have to bite the bullet and find a reputable shop

dammmit
yes i would take it in...

Quote:
Porksoda how tight is that cable suposse to be, that is connected to the trrotlle acutator? Seems as if you could adjust it at the TB. I was messing around one day and cant remember how tight its suppose to be.

Sorry dont mean to jack the thread
the two cables should have no slack and they should be just enough tightness that a movement would open the flap... they should not be tight enough that the flap opens.

Basically make sure there is no slack.
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Old 03-14-2009, 06:17 PM   #12
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here we go

had my buddy come over and we did the following on the vehicle

- checked all coilpacks / ignition coils - good
- checked all injections - good
- checked all plugs - good
- no leaks with headgasket - v gasket

took off aftermarket intake re-installed stock intake and piping with new filter

complete radflush again / new fluids searched for leaks (none) (thank god)

cleaned maf / throttle body good)

cleaned ICV ---- sticky as hell would not budge was able to clean it so the internals move easily

removed camshaft position sensor resinstalled

checked with scanner received following codes (prior to fixing)

-p1174 -p1175 -p0340 -p0300 -p0301 -p0303 -p0302


after all was done we reset the codes when the work was done , and it seems to be idling a bit better .... I will keep you posted (i couldnt get the car into a good shop ...
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:06 PM   #13
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good show make sure to check hoses you may have a leak on a vacuum line or more importantly an intake hose.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:09 PM   #14
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my buddy checked the car and said it most likely is a valley pan intake issue

Can anyone here let me know where I can get all the parts for a full replacement

Thanks
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