some advice for upcoming job

Berlin · 05-25-2010, 08:32 PM

hello

i have to do three things (diff, subframe bushings, springs) and i'd like to get them all done in one sitting (which i realize could be quite long), so im trying to figure out the best order in which to do them, what do you guys think of this:

swap the diff to the new one
use the 2 inch subframe drop method to change out the bushings (torch+puller/slide hammer, pipe ends?)
while the subframe is low change out the rear springs
lastly move to the front and swap the springs there.

does it makes sense or is there better way?

i have no lift so it has to happen on a jack and stands...

thanks in advance

HavocSteve · 05-25-2010, 09:32 PM

Why not completely take it all out? Do what Bullet Ride has done with his rear end thread. Drop everything, do the subframe, then put the new diff in, then change the springs. Seems logical that way to myself since the subframe is above the diff and since I'm doing my brake lines, I would suggest running a new rear line since you'll be taking those out and make a easier job then myself with the rear brakes.

cirrusblau · 05-26-2010, 10:04 AM

I just dropped my entire rear (subframe, dif, springs) at once last year when I did the rear end overhaul.

Just used jackstands and a jack.

Note: it takes 2 people to line it up easily if you're installing the whole thing as a unit.

Bullet Ride · 05-26-2010, 11:08 AM

Yeah like Steve said, check out my suspension overhaul thread.
And 100% replace the brake hard lines when you have the subframe out because with it in, it's pretty much impossible to change the two upper lines right by the gas tank... at least it seemed that way to me. I should have replaced mine.... 2 weeks after I put it all back together one of my lines craked where there was some rot and started leaking. I spent the weekend ghetto rigging my own hard line set-up since I didn't want to drop the subframe again...

I'd recommend replacing the subframe bushings with some AKG poly bushings. That way you'll never have to replace them again... and they are easy to install since they are a split design

HavocSteve · 05-26-2010, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullet Ride

Yeah like Steve said, check out my suspension overhaul thread.
And 100% replace the brake hard lines when you have the subframe out because with it in, it's pretty much impossible to change the two upper lines right by the gas tank... at least it seemed that way to me. I should have replaced mine.... 2 weeks after I put it all back together one of my lines craked where there was some rot and started leaking. I spent the weekend ghetto rigging my own hard line set-up since I didn't want to drop the subframe again...

I'd recommend replacing the subframe bushings with some AKG poly bushings. That way you'll never have to replace them again... and they are easy to install since they are a split design

You think your hard brake lines are ghetto? I got my father to rip the T-Bar brass fitting that connects the 3 lines with a crowbar LOL. Probably the most pain in the ass job to do is the brake lines in the rear.. And you should see what I've already done to my car

Bullet Ride · 05-26-2010, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavocSteve

You think your hard brake lines are ghetto? I got my father to rip the T-Bar brass fitting that connects the 3 lines with a crowbar LOL. Probably the most pain in the ass job to do is the brake lines in the rear.. And you should see what I've already done to my car

I had to chisel my T-Fitting off as well because the mounting nut was rusted and stripeed when I went to take it off. I should take pics of what I came up with lol. Since I was buying pre-flared lines with fittings, there's a couple spots where I had to kill a few inches of line by making random bends. However my setup is now totally easier to service than the stock set-up

HavocSteve · 05-26-2010, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullet Ride

I had to chisel my T-Fitting off as well because the mounting nut was rusted and stripeed when I went to take it off. I should take pics of what I came up with lol. Since I was buying pre-flared lines with fittings, there's a couple spots where I had to kill a few inches of line by making random bends. However my setup is now totally easier to service than the stock set-up

Same here. My right rear line is perfect but my left side was cut a little long so I had to make some bends in it to fit into the flex line that is over the CV Axle. Now I got to buy more flex lines so I can mount the T-Fitting somewhere I can actually get at it and then run it down the driver side into the engine.

Question : Where does the rear line go to in the engine compartment? Does it go to the abs or into the master?

Sorry for Hijacking the tread.

Bullet Ride · 05-26-2010, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavocSteve

Question : Where does the rear line go to in the engine compartment? Does it go to the abs or into the master?

Sorry for Hijacking the tread.

It goes into the proportioning valve located below the master cylinder tucked in just above the frame rail.... you can only really get at it from the underside of the car and even then it's pretty tight...depending on the side of your hands.

cirrusblau · 05-26-2010, 12:49 PM

Alex, how are your trailing arm bushings? Those require subframe removal.

If your parking brake cables are stiff, having the subframe out makes it MUCH easier to replace the housings that are likely seized into the body and the hubs.

HavocSteve · 05-26-2010, 09:19 PM

They only make em like this for a simple reason. bringing it back to the shop for maintenance. For guys like us, or girls, who can do normal things properly, it's one huge pain in the ass =\ I'm no where closer then I was yesterday at getting the lines finished lol. (But I leveled out the ground out back for the pool). Tomorrow, I'm hoping I can get them chiseled out of the brackets without braking the flex lines. But I'm not looking forward to this.... "proportioning valve located below the master cylinder tucked in just above the frame rail" It's in one STUPID spot =\ Not to mention my car is lowered and it's hard to get a jack under it >_<

Bullet Ride · 05-26-2010, 09:23 PM

^ Steve I replied in your build thread so this thread can get back on topic with Berlin's project discussion.

Berlin · 05-27-2010, 12:26 PM

hmm ok thanks guys

im pretty sure my brake lines and trailarm bushes are fine, im really hesitant to drop the whole thing, and i only have one weekend to do all this so brake bleeding i dunno if i can include in the time alloted..

HavocSteve · 05-27-2010, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Berlin

hmm ok thanks guys

im pretty sure my brake lines and trailarm bushes are fine, im really hesitant to drop the whole thing, and i only have one weekend to do all this so brake bleeding i dunno if i can include in the time alloted..

Was just saying.. So far I've put 2 days work into my rear brakes. Only the trailing arm lines are done, the rest is just a headache. So if everything is out of the way, I would be nearly done.

cirrusblau · 05-27-2010, 12:59 PM

In that case, your method sounds good. Do you have a contingency plan for if the bushing core breaks and stays in the body? I'm unfamiliar with changing the subframe bushes with the 2" drop. I imagine it's less likely they break, but it's still something to consider. Shoot some penetrating lube on the SHCS (2 per side) that hold a plate under the bushings now to help insure they are free.

Rear springs are easy. Do you have a spring compressor for the fronts? Ball joint separator? Big pipe wrench for the strut collars?

Bullet Ride · 05-27-2010, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Berlin

hmm ok thanks guys

im pretty sure my brake lines and trailarm bushes are fine, im really hesitant to drop the whole thing, and i only have one weekend to do all this so brake bleeding i dunno if i can include in the time alloted..

Bleeding the rear brakes takes a whole of 10-15 minutes with the help of a friend. The only dangerous thing is your bleed screws might be siezed in the caliper, so try to open the bleed screws on the calipers before you disconnect any of the brake lines (should you choose to drop the subframe completely). With the subframe completely out of the car I was able to easily remove the subframe bushings. If the core was still bonded to the bushing I used a coping saw to cut the core out (cut through the two rubber ribs, then used a sawzall to cut through the metal sleeve in two spots and hammered the sleeve out, took about half an hour per bushing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cirrusblau

Do you have a contingency plan for if the bushing core breaks and stays in the body?

5/8" tap, 5/8" bolt, a piece of steel rod and a BFH

Tap the piece stuck in the body from underside of carand insert bolt. Go into cabin with rod and BFH and start slamming. I had to pound both sides out on my car, and it took a good few minutes of hammering... be careful not to hit the rear window with the BFH