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Old 05-18-2010, 12:54 AM   #1
doogee
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Post Doogee Dakar M3 Track Build

Alright.

No one has really done this on max before and I see too many on bimmerforums so I want to "contribute"?

I've been going to the track for 2 years, and all these upgrades to my car are just getting ridiculously uncomfortable. I'm also not a fan of taking my DD to Mosport GP. I really want to get into racing as well in the future. So this was a good time to start building a car..."for the future"

So I set out to build the track car. I grabbed a 100% clean 97 Dakar M3 from Euroguy (Tom). He had begun to part it out, so I stopped him

I decided to go all out and do this properly so when the time comes to actually start competing with the car, I don't want to be messing around too much.

So I'm going to start taking photos of my progress and kind of explain why I'm doing what I'm doing.

My short list of mods so far includes:

S52 /w Schrick Cams
OBDI Conversion
Rebuild the head
Headers
Solid Diff mounts
90A Powerflex Subframe Mounts
Bimmerworld solid engine and tranny mounts
Alluminum Rad
95 M3 or Z3 Steering Rack
(Hopefully) Bimmerworld intake
Bimmerworld Adjustable Rear Control Arms
UUC Swaybarbarians will most likely come off the DD
Wheel Studs
6 Point Cage
Fan Delete with SPAL
AKG Shifter
TcKline delrin RTABs
Bimmerworld Delrin FCABs
XBrace


Coilovers are undecided. All depends on budget. JRZ RS's would be nice but more than likely out of the picture. I always have my TCKlines from my other E36.


The list will build, this is everything I can pull out of my head at 12:00. Luckily I have some time to build this thing. Going to be buying part by part. I wish I were rich so I could buy everything Who wants to donate

Definitely a special thanks to Euroguy (Tom). He's really helped me out with all the parts I need.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:11 AM   #2
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The start


TcKline Rtabs installed


ByeBye subframe bushings!


Getting there...


Removing the sound deadening tar is the worst.


I removed the heater core and made this plate to cover the hole. It's a cutout e36 door with weatherstripping around it bolted in


Who likes wiring?


The wheels:


The headers:
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post

I removed the heater core and made this plate to cover the hole. It's a cutout e36 door with weatherstripping around it bolted in
thx for the heater core...working perfect in my car
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:16 AM   #4
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Whats the AKG shifter look like? Don't get that crap that comes with the base that bolts to the car's body.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craz azn View Post
Whats the AKG shifter look like? Don't get that crap that comes with the base that bolts to the car's body.
I heard the hardware that comes with it is complete crap. So you need to buy some heavy duty stuff from homedepot etc.

What would you recommend? I'd like something tall, does't have to be too short in throw, I like to know what gear I'm going into haha.

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Old 05-18-2010, 01:17 AM   #6
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Made a nice plate for all my toggle switches and gauges


Still working on wiring. Still lots of tar to remove as well


Regulars and wiring removed. The windows will stay on the rails. But I will use L-brackets bolted to the window so I can easily pull them out or leave them in with a good seal.


Progress today:

I painted the bumpers and sideskirts. Tom had sold them so I got some cracked ones from him, fixed them up and painted. For a rattle can job, I shocked myself of the quality.



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Old 05-18-2010, 01:21 AM   #7
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As you can see the paint matched very well!


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Old 05-18-2010, 01:23 AM   #8
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Good paint match!

The problem is, with a base mounted to the body, and a driveline that still can move (aka not solid bushings) it will twist and tweak around a bit, leading to a shifter that changes feel, and possibly lead to some botched (money)shifts.

Edit. Gah, just reread your mod list. You say solid motor and trans mounts? How can you mount it solid if the engine has knock sensors? It's gonna register every nook and cranny of vibration and pull the timing right out...
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craz azn View Post
You say solid motor and trans mounts? How can you mount it solid if the engine has knock sensors? It's gonna register every nook and cranny of vibration and pull the timing right out...
I haven't heard of too many people having this issue. But I can't say it won't happen. I'll have to do more research. Might go with poly.

Although, you sure know your stuff. Will this happen for sure?
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
I haven't heard of too many people having this issue. But I can't say it won't happen. I'll have to do more research. Might go with poly.

Although, you sure know your stuff. Will this happen for sure?
Dunno if it will man. Our E36 has stock M3 mounts. Could be that maybe the stock system isn't as sensitive or something? Maybe MarkD could chime in on this.

I remember this one test day that we took a car to at Mosport, hooked up a standalone knock sensor system and mounted the gauge in the car to monitor what was going on. Because it had solid mounts, it would register that the car was knocking even OFF throttle. At first we thought the system was bad, or maybe the sensor shit the bed, but we hooked it up to my car, and it worked fine! *shrugs*
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craz azn View Post
Dunno if it will man. Our E36 has stock M3 mounts. Could be that maybe the stock system isn't as sensitive or something? Maybe MarkD could chime in on this.

I remember this one test day that we took a car to at Mosport, hooked up a standalone knock sensor system and mounted the gauge in the car to monitor what was going on. Because it had solid mounts, it would register that the car was knocking even OFF throttle. At first we thought the system was bad, or maybe the sensor shit the bed, but we hooked it up to my car, and it worked fine! *shrugs*
It'll be fine with solid mounts. The knock system shouldn't react to random knock noises. You can test your knock system by seeing if it's picking up the various knocks but the frequency of detonation is in a very narrow window and should be tuned for at the factory (it's very nicely related to the cylinder bore size), so the system should be able to do a very good job at filtering noise.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:28 AM   #12
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very good ;P
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:32 AM   #13
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Looks good
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikole95 View Post
I remember this one test day that we took a car to at Mosport, hooked up a standalone knock sensor system and mounted the gauge in the car to monitor what was going on. Because it had solid mounts, it would register that the car was knocking even OFF throttle. At first we thought the system was bad, or maybe the sensor shit the bed, but we hooked it up to my car
Seems OT, but where did you get this knock sensor system? Would it register knocking on an engine with its own knock sensors? Would it be quick enough? I've been running 91 octane (full gas no ethanol) during the winter even though technically my software requires 93 octane (only thing available is 94 10% ethanol)
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Flyview View Post
Seems OT, but where did you get this knock sensor system? Would it register knocking on an engine with its own knock sensors? Would it be quick enough? I've been running 91 octane (full gas no ethanol) during the winter even though technically my software requires 93 octane (only thing available is 94 10% ethanol)
That's my post dude, its spam
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