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Old 08-26-2008, 09:25 PM   #10
jeffrie's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 2,251
Originally Posted by Nascar318is View Post
Jeff: So far I turned the car on, opened the bleeder screw for the air, and alot of steam was coming out and hardley any spitting liquid(if that helps) also I noticed that the pipe going back into the rad(lower hose) was cold as crap and I was at 3/4 temp and then turned the car off. After the car was off that's when I noticed the hose start to get hot.. So any more diagnostics for me? I'm off all week and would be nice to fix this asap..
Well that bleeder screw has always been useless for me, should follow it to the open bottle and look their.
IMO from what you have described; since you had a almost overheating engine (3/4's to red) and only one hose is hot = to me a T-stat (stuck closed), air in the system (would need alot to stop that much flow) or most likly the WP.

FYI I'm off tommorow @ 11:30am... Want me to pick up the dealer only T-stat for you from Elite BMW? I can easily stop by since I drive by it on my way home and deliver it for you.
Edit: FYI I do not know were you live anymore or seen your new house yet.

Originally Posted by BearsBmr View Post
while we are on the subject ... I replaced my rad and never put back the sensor that screws in the radiator housing and haven't noticed anything wrong ... It's obv a temp sensor but what does it tell the DME to do ? is it very important?

Bear that sensor is to turn on the aux electric/AC fan if you were to ever get stuck in traffic and it's +40C outside which would need the extra air flow.
"They say ignorance is bliss..... I don't know what the Fu*k that means but I'm pretty happy". Ricky Trailer Park Boys.

Current Mods....X-Brace, Stromung Cat Back Exhaust, 17/225/45 M3 Replicas, HotBits Adjustable Coil Overs, 40% LSD 3:91 Diff, E30 Gearbox, Boosted.

Last edited by jeffrie; 08-26-2008 at 09:35 PM.
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