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Old 08-18-2013, 10:42 AM   #10
Life begins at 4000rpm
kamus's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 525
Wow - thanks for all the responses guys. I'll try to address all the points. Many of you have prompted me to read further, so I have added more specific follow-up questions below.

Lap Times
If it helps anyone assess my skill level, for reference my best lap times at Mosport are at the 1:52 mark. 9 out of 10 laps I can do a consistent 1:54 to 1:55 traffic permitting. Once out of a 15 lap session last week I hit 1:52. Note that I hardly ever banzai all the way up the back straight. The norm for me is to start lifting as I approach the bridge after turn 7 - so I arrive at turn 8 around 160 to 170km/h and barely need a stab of the brakes. Flat out over the hill brings the car to 8 at around 185 to 190 (It's hard to look down at the speedo on the approach to 8!)
So I don't think I'm at the right stage for adjustable stuff. Would not even know what was the correct adjustment for myself. I don’t think I can adjust the settings better than a tried and tested set-up such as SpecE30 or other forms of club racing. But tell me more - how easy is it to switch from track to street settings? Does it take as long as changing wheels?
JStock vs street use
The Jstock setup from Turner sounds very tempting. But I do still like to drive my car on the street during summer … so probably not ideal for me. But close. For example I hate the nibbling sensation of driving r-compound tires on the street. You have to constantly apply steering inputs to keep the car straight! I love the feeling of comfort that returns when I put the street tires back on just before leaving the track. It's not my only street car, but on a nice summer day, when I don't have to go into the city, it's the street car I almost always choose.
H&R Race plus Billstein Sport
So I'm leaning toward the Spec E30 settings - but probably no sway bar changes right away. H&R Race springs and Bilstein Sports.
I'd love to hear some discussion on the following bits though:

Question 1
Rear Subframe Bushings: Race or Stock? Does anyone have experience of changing to the $400 Group N bushings here:
Question 2
The Diff Mount Bushing - should I replace with stock or the "Delrin" near-solid stuff discussed here:
Question 3
My mechanic has discussed moving the battery forward from its stock location. Ireland Engineering used to offer a rear strut brace with in integrated battery box. Has anyone seen anything like this offered anywhere?
Final thoughts on budget
As for budget, since I'm still learning about what the candidate solutions are, I can't really fix the budget because in doing so I might end up not considering good solutions. So - without meaning to sound douchey - let's worry about the budget after we figure out the "best" solution for me in my driving situation.
Rudy - thanks for the email - response sent.
Trev - Thanks, I'll ping Jay.

Thanks again all!
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