Originally Posted by sb_600
The rear o2 won't do anything. All it does is make sure the cat works properly. You need to try the front one
I have a wideband o2 where the primary should be. before that it was going to a af/gauge ..so the check engine light has Always been on. but the idling this high & reving up & down at 1500rpm is new.
Originally Posted by jeffrie
How does it respond to a little throttle and how does it act with boost when idel is surging? Any miss or hesitation to rev up off idel or sluggishness till boost kicks in under load?
it actually did feel like the car was squating on decel & lifting on throtle at low speeds..? rest of the q's require details: cars was running mint forever @7lbs. got rpm to install a wideband02, walboro pump & larger injectors from a v8. he said there was a nick in an injector wire & it was konking out when testing - he fixed that. car ran great for weeks. I eventually hooked up with barry to retune for 14.5 -15lbs. things went wonky. first we couldn't get the manual boost controller to give us more than 10lbs. he/we thought leak or messed up spring in the wastegate or b.controller. during this the car developed Stuttering at low boost. after barry hooked up a leak tester to my intake tubing to see if we could see what was up. we discoverd that 20+psi was blowing oil back Up my turbo feed line & that my turbo is leaking on the intake side. we stopped there. rpm put in new plugs & hooked intake cleaner up to the fuel rail. car ran better, boosted Higher before hesitation, or hickup. which could be over boost, boost leak, turbo leaking oil, fuxored spring or idk wtf...
then the high idle started it now does it 90% of the time
Originally Posted by Blackedout95
Its not incredibly common but here's a thought!
Unplug you TPS and see what happens
From there plug it back in and your TPS should be reading .07-8 at idle if I recall (you mentioned it happened when sitting). I would then if confirmed that is not reading correctly ( higher than .07-.08v at idle) look at the actual TB rod, would bet you have a flat spot and rod needs adjusting... You see if the reading is higher it has to have gotten that reading from somewhere
So adjust the rod angle or new TB, either way and retest v output.
Again just a shot in the dark but if all the obvious first things don't pan out, take a look. GL hope is something simple.
unplugged it still idled high. but the car was still cold. don't have a volt/amp tester so I can't check its values..
did the fault code thing, if i did it right, it kept repeating 1222 'Oxygen Sensor Lean/Rich Detect (primary)'
will do it again, shut it off before it cleared as it seemed to just be repeating 1222 over & over forever...
Anybody want a rusty crusty project car?