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Old 08-08-2011, 09:15 PM   #40
Mr_Bimmer
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norwich
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
Also what are u gonna do with the car? like just street or street and track time... bimmers arent straight line cars.. there ment to handle.. and the supercharger delivers the power and no lag... also its a bit more reliable and u got less to worry about the small things that can go wrong....

I personaly love the aa kit... its fun and its tamed// IMO... also make sure u re-enforce the subframe,.. and i think you should do other mods before FI... like suspension and brakes... atleast to m3 brakes.. good pads.. fluids, ss lines and remmeber u need atleast a stage II clutch kit from bimmerworld... i think the LTW fw with the m5 clutch.. it should hold that power well.. also the pump, also good suspension components are key.. like stiffer sway bars, a nice lsd if its FI i would go with 2.91 lsd... cuz the 3.23 is really bad on highways... the m52 is a good motor to boost... also a thicker head gasket and arp studs are good
Remember its not just the speed.. u need a way to control the car and slow it down..
This guy has said the first intelligent thing in this post. Many considerations are needed when boosting a car. First, budget is key. You NEED to know how much you can spend, nobody likes going to the fridge to get the last beer that isn't there, because you couldn't afford the 6 pack cause you can barely afford to feed yourself. Second, reliability seems to be a priority for you, which is good. However, things I'd start researching would be how many others have a set up similair to what you want, what have they done to maintain reliability, how much driving has been done with the extra abuse of the forced induction system on the components they have. The picture of the driveshaft all twisted up is to big of an in your face example of what can go wrong. Imagine being on the HW, some asshole like me comes up in my TT z32, and you want to flex your penis. SO you hop on the throttle, than SNAP. Driveshaft twists in 2, rips off half your exhaust, throws parts through the windshield of the guy behind you, digs into the pavement and tosses your ass into 2 other lanes of traffic. Wanna know how I know that can happen lol? Point of story, the amount of money you are thinking of spending, double it. Because there are other key points of modifications that need to be done to ensure proper driveability and reliability. If you can go fast, you want to be able to stop fast. You've got to be able to put the extra power you make, on the ground, or its just wasting rubber. LSD rearend is a must if you want to actually get off the line without busting axles or roasting too much tires. Apparently driveshafts are a problem in your car. What about stiffer subframe bushings to help transfer more power to the ground, suspension for the same reason. I havent even talked about engine internals yet. Unless you want to run 94+ octane and water/methanol injection at all times and the biggest effing intercooler made, the amount of hp you want won't be achieved reliably on stock pistons at the very least. Lower compression pistons give a better tuning bubble, and allow you to run pump gas you can afford. I can go on and on and on about this shit. I've built several boosted hondas (go ahead, haha laugh.) I work on alot of supercharged go fast boats and my most current project I just sold was a 300zx twin turbo I built. I will use that as an example. I aswell wanted about 400+ hp at the wheels. The turbo charger and fuel injector kit was 4 grand, capable of supporting 550 RWHP. Thats another nice thing about turbos, want more power, turn up the boost controller. Thats all fine, 4 grand no big deal bam, ups the kit to my door. Than, upgraded clutch, flywheel, boost controller, ecu and tuning, suspension, bushings, driveshaft, bigger exhaust, dual intakes, cams. The list goes on, the the final price tag is ten grand. Thats all labour done by myself. ANother thing, if you work full time and require a vehicle, you'll need another one to drive while you do the project, and theres always maintenance to do on that likely aswell. By all means, I dont mean to scare you off a cool project, I've done alot of them but I've learned to be prepaired, and not to be afraid to dig deep in the pockets if your savings permits. Anyways, to sum up this way too long reply, chances are you will spend the same amount of money trying to make your car fast, as you would buying one thats already fast. You can buy a 300zx TT left hand drive canadian car in good shape for 11 grand, spend a grand and have about 350 rwhp. I promise theres not alot on the road that can touch those nissans, they are geared excellent and are wicked fast. Also, one last side note, Naturally aspirated is the expensive way to go slow.
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