Thread: M3 Brakes...
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Old 03-13-2011, 02:13 PM   #17
JunzieB
Wants more powaaa!
 
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: B-Town
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystikal View Post
If you're after performance (and you should be, they're brakes) get solid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30 View Post
Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiR View Post
100% correct
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30 View Post
M3 brakes are not as cheap as 328s.

The slotted/drilled vs solid debate is pointless, so i'm not going to bother, the slight improvement you think you feel is not worth the stress issues and pro-longed use most of us put our brakes through. If you want to change your brakes every season to avoid catastrophic failure on a track, then go ahead.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystikal View Post
They do technically offer better cooling. However, when you toss drilled rotors onto a car not designed for them two things are happening:

1. The surface area for pad contact is now reduced. The factory drilled/slotted rotors are always absolutely massive to compensate for this.

2. The aftermarket rotors people are buying don't come close to the quality of the factory units. Look at the prices of replacement rotors for a car with a proper OE drilled setup, it's insane.

So yes, in theory, drilled and slotted rotors can lead to better fade resistance. However, attempting to achieve those benefits with a stock sized rotor and at any reasonable price point will only hurt performance and durability.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystikal View Post
If you're after performance (and you should be, they're brakes) get solid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30 View Post
Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiR View Post
100% correct
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystikal View Post
They do technically offer better cooling. However, when you toss drilled rotors onto a car not designed for them two things are happening:

1. The surface area for pad contact is now reduced. The factory drilled/slotted rotors are always absolutely massive to compensate for this.

2. The aftermarket rotors people are buying don't come close to the quality of the factory units. Look at the prices of replacement rotors for a car with a proper OE drilled setup, it's insane.

So yes, in theory, drilled and slotted rotors can lead to better fade resistance. However, attempting to achieve those benefits with a stock sized rotor and at any reasonable price point will only hurt performance and durability.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotcH View Post
Lots of misinformation in this thread. Here are some facts:

- OE drilled rotors are not drilled ... they are cast that way, and have proper testing and analysis done one them. Most aftermarket cross drilled are actually drilled, and as a result a very much weakened product. They WILL crack, not if, but when.
- Cross drilling is not to help cooling. Initially it was to help off gassing in pads. Modern pads do not offgas, so now it mainly for weight savings.
- Solid rotors offer the best heat dissipation ... there is more mass to act as a heat sink, and they offer more surface area for friction (hence better stopping).
- All the teams I race with use solid rotors (as do we). There is a reason. They work better, and don't fail.
- Slotted is far better than drilled, but you still compromise the rotor to some degree. They are usually used to abrade the pads and keep the glazing off. They will reduce your pad life. If you HAVE to have some bling, get slotted, not drilled.
TDotE30, Mystikal, Sir ans ScotcH have provided both blunt and detailed responses, i hope that you do it right the first time and listen.

The only advantage that you will gain going against their advice is learning through personal experience why OEM blanks along with decent pads over any aftermarket crossed drilled/slotted setup is better, for performance that is.
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