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-   -   Engine Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157448)

MrPig 05-06-2013 07:59 PM

Engine Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet
 
I had a very slow oil leak on my e30 (about 3-4 drops per day, nothing serious). With my OCD, I was poking around trying to locate it (and in the process replaced a lot of stuff). Long story short I disturbed the oil cooler outlet and it's now pissing oil like mad when the engine is on.

Anyone know where I can get an outlet/inlet replacement locally (preferably in the northern part of Toronto)? I can order them from bimmerspecialist, but I wanted to drive the car to Shannonville for the track event there this weekend.

I'm open to suggestions for a McGuyver solution as well.

Cheers.

Yamahammer 05-07-2013 09:55 PM

half a tube of thread sealant?

MrPig 05-07-2013 10:05 PM

I have a tube of FastSteel but I don't know how well that'll hold up when the oil is at operating temp. The leaflet says an upper temp limit of 121C under continuous operation. Chances are I'll just order the parts online and park the car for 2 weeks :/

mr ilia 05-07-2013 10:26 PM

I used JB weld on my a/c condenser almost 2 years ago. So far so good.

MrPig 05-07-2013 10:31 PM

Hmm, JB weld might work. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks, guys.

BMe30 05-08-2013 06:23 AM

If its an aluminum part try using a product called "quick aluminum"

food 05-08-2013 08:47 AM

Assuming it's the cooler itself and not the fitting. Find a shop that welds aluminium well and have them clean it and fix it properly. I cant imagine any of the JB weld type products working very well on oil soaked aluminium.

If it's the fitting just replace the line with AN fittings and braided hose.

MrPig 05-08-2013 08:58 AM

It's the metal portion of the outlet line. The cooler itself is dry as a bone on the exterior.

food 05-08-2013 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPig (Post 1609506)
It's the metal portion of the outlet line. The cooler itself is dry as a bone on the exterior.

you could try and patch it but if it failed because you moved it while poking around I would replace the whole thing.

I don't know how much BMW wants for one of those lines but I expect you could replace it with an AN setup for the same price and source all the pieces needed locally. Plus AN stuff is cool as hell.

MrPig 05-08-2013 12:04 PM

Something to consider. It started leaking prefusly when I unbolted the rubber ... Thingy ... That braced the piping to the frame.

The part is ~$50 from bimmerspecialist.ca, if the patch works as a stopgap solution until the part is delivered, I'm fine with that.

craz azn 05-08-2013 12:05 PM

Are you talking about the oil filter housing where the cooler lines screw into? I may have an extra one of those kicking around. If its the oil lines, those are hard to come by in good shape. They are usually rusty and/or bent.

MrPig 05-08-2013 12:09 PM

The oil lines going from the housing to the cooler. And yeah, the only sources I could find them on were pelicanparts and bimmerspecialist.

Dinanstu 05-08-2013 05:57 PM

I have oil lines with fittings available. I switched to braided SS for mine.
PM if you're interested.

Edit,

Mine is for oil cooler cap set up. If you need fittings, DTC industrial 416-321-0990 Markam/McNicoll


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