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-   -   325ix manual swap. Local help? (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157119)

aberg83 04-21-2013 06:59 AM

325ix manual swap. Local help?
 
Just got an 89 ix auto in decent shape and looking to do a manual swap this spring or summer. Poking around for parts now. I'm a beginner mechanic and think this may be overwhelming for me. I'm in Guelph. Anyone nearby that may be willing to assist with the swap?

Ceeker 04-21-2013 09:17 AM

do you realize what kind of work you'll be getting yourself into??? lol
I don't think anyone is going to help through and through. it's a HUGE job. if I were you I'd thoroughly investigate it before attempting since you're a newbie.

most importantly you will need a 5sp transfer case. Unless you get a 5 sp transmission with the transfer case attached. The auto and 5sp have different front housings.

parts requried: pedals
clutch and slave cylinders and lines
clutch
new seals on the transmission while you have it out. maybe good to check the shifter bushings as well while it's out. :-)
not sure about the front drive shaft but may be shorter.
the front and rear diff has a different ratio on a auto. 4:10 is what you have.
3:90 is what comes with a 5sp. you may or may not want to keep the set up you have
the car will be quicker with the 4:10 and 5sp.

Of course you also have the labour: exhaust system out, drive shafts out. rear diff out.
transmission out. and the list goes on...

still feel like doing it?? LOL!!

sorry, not to discourage but you'll also be into about a grand or more in used parts. plus replacements.

check with boxer2.bmw@gmail.com. he's got a few parts cars. I know he's got a 5sp tranny with case.

aberg83 04-21-2013 09:23 AM

I realize what I'm up against and willing to see it through. This isn't my daily driver. Picked it up as more of a fun project. In no rush and willing to get my hands dirty and learn something in the process. While it appears to be a big job, it doesn't seem too complex, just labour intensive. With the support of the forum and a close friend who's done a few swaps in RWD e30's I still see this as a very doable exercise.

How hard is it to pull the transmission with the car up on standard crappy tire jack stands? I'm thinking the hardest part will be access to unbolt it.


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cormier 04-21-2013 01:50 PM

It's a biatch to get out, but do-able with impact/breaker bar and lots of different size extensions and swivel joints.

Ceeker 04-21-2013 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cormier (Post 1607114)
It's a biatch to get out, but do-able with impact/breaker bar and lots of different size extensions and swivel joints.

like he said..^ BIATCH!!! it's heavy work. and you'll need to source the parts. that can be hard to do since most transfer cases are blown.

cormier 04-21-2013 02:44 PM

Ohhhh ya forgot about all those extra bits..... Good luck to ya! I assume the transfer case isn't interchangeable?

Ceeker 04-21-2013 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cormier (Post 1607120)
Ohhhh ya forgot about all those extra bits..... Good luck to ya! I assume the transfer case isn't interchangeable?

outer front case is different on the 5sp vs auto. The auto tranny output is shorter making the front case bigger.

davericher20 04-21-2013 09:49 PM

And don't forget to mate the driveshaft to the tranny first before you bolt the tranny back up!

Ceeker 04-21-2013 11:47 PM

I have read that one of the inherent problems with the spine stripping is due to the shaft spline not being long enough to fill the entire length of the output. ( ok I realize how this is sounding..LOL) Some have added a shim/spacer at the diff side in order to lengthen the shaft allowing it to seat deeper eliminating this problem. LMAO!!

aberg83 04-22-2013 12:49 PM

I think your post should be censored! ;)

supernaught 04-22-2013 04:53 PM

When looking for a used transfercase, be sure to check a few things. If you can lock the input and rear output flanges, the front output should have a ton of resistance, but still turn very slowly(not a sure test, but gets you started). If you can easily turn the front output by hand, its a sure sign the VC is bad.

Grab the front output and wiggle cw/ccw to feel for a clunk-clunk. A very small amount is normal, but a heavy sounding thunk is a chain that has stretched. Most chains will stretch over time, but the tighter the better.

Look at the front output flange splines, they should be straight cut, with no rounded teeth or a step part way along their length. This flange can be replaced, but I've never done one and don't know where you would find one.

The chain, VC and output flange in your auto case are all the same as in the 5spd. So if yours is good and you find something wrong with your new one, you may have to get a little more in-depth(a lot) but all is not lost.

And yes, when you put a new shaft in, use spacers so you can be sure to get the best spline engagement. There is a lot of talk on this topic on e30tech.com's ix section.

aberg83 04-22-2013 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supernaught (Post 1607313)
When looking for a used transfercase, be sure to check a few things. If you can lock the input and rear output flanges, the front output should have a ton of resistance, but still turn very slowly(not a sure test, but gets you started). If you can easily turn the front output by hand, its a sure sign the VC is bad.

Grab the front output and wiggle cw/ccw to feel for a clunk-clunk. A very small amount is normal, but a heavy sounding thunk is a chain that has stretched. Most chains will stretch over time, but the tighter the better.

Look at the front output flange splines, they should be straight cut, with no rounded teeth or a step part way along their length. This flange can be replaced, but I've never done one and don't know where you would find one.

The chain, VC and output flange in your auto case are all the same as in the 5spd. So if yours is good and you find something wrong with your new one, you may have to get a little more in-depth(a lot) but all is not lost.

And yes, when you put a new shaft in, use spacers so you can be sure to get the best spline engagement. There is a lot of talk on this topic on e30tech.com's ix section.

Thanks for the tips. Can the drive shafts from the auto not be re-used with the manual t-case?

Ceeker 04-22-2013 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aberg83 (Post 1607315)
Thanks for the tips. Can the drive shafts from the auto not be re-used with the manual t-case?

NOPE! different length..I thought I went through this already? LOL!!

Ceeker 04-22-2013 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supernaught (Post 1607313)
When looking for a used transfercase, be sure to check a few things. If you can lock the input and rear output flanges, the front output should have a ton of resistance, but still turn very slowly(not a sure test, but gets you started). If you can easily turn the front output by hand, its a sure sign the VC is bad.

Grab the front output and wiggle cw/ccw to feel for a clunk-clunk. A very small amount is normal, but a heavy sounding thunk is a chain that has stretched. Most chains will stretch over time, but the tighter the better.

Look at the front output flange splines, they should be straight cut, with no rounded teeth or a step part way along their length. This flange can be replaced, but I've never done one and don't know where you would find one.

The chain, VC and output flange in your auto case are all the same as in the 5spd. So if yours is good and you find something wrong with your new one, you may have to get a little more in-depth(a lot) but all is not lost.

And yes, when you put a new shaft in, use spacers so you can be sure to get the best spline engagement. There is a lot of talk on this topic on e30tech.com's ix section.

I've changed a front flange....wow..the transfer case has to come completely apart... most people cheat it by welding a couple dimples on the flange to shaft. Seem to work.


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