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-   -   Keyless Entry works but console lock/door key/etc does not unlock all doors (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148885)

limenuke 02-20-2012 04:11 PM

Keyless Entry works but console lock/door key/etc does not unlock all doors
 
I can't seem to open anything but the door I stick the key in now - whereas before the car's doors would unlock if I opened the trunk or the driver or passenger door with the key.

Battery is charged.

Keyless entry system that I wired in works as well.

Any ideas?

limenuke 02-20-2012 08:44 PM

Update:

Trunk lid wiring was shot. I patched it up as a temporary fix.

I think I need either fuse 7 or 35. Since remote locking works, I suspect 7 is the problem. Now I need a fuse #7... any place in Scarborough that would be able to get me one asap?

limenuke 02-23-2012 08:02 PM

Hey guys! Fuse 7 got replaced and still I can't lock/unlock the car using the trunk or driver door keyholes. However, even without fuse 7, I can use the keyless remote to unlock/lock my car.

So what could be wrong now? The lock/unlock motors work. Did some module get fried? My interior lighting works..

limenuke 02-26-2012 04:27 PM

Any help?

I found out my fuel door doesn't lock properly. The locking pin looks like it attempts to lock but then stops and retracts...

limenuke 02-27-2012 06:55 PM

Update : Starting to think it could be my GMIV Low control module? Hopefully...I just knocked something loose while I was adding in my aftermarket system? =\

limenuke 03-01-2012 09:13 PM

Most Recent Update:

Fuel door NEVER locked with my aftermarket system. I did not wire it to (you're supposed to trigger lock+unlock at the same time), and as such, my fuel door only locked when I locked my trunk or driver door or something. This is not a problem.

My interior locks continue to be useless. The buttons, the driver door locks, the exterior keyholes do not trigger the central power locks as they should.

My battery also went dead overnight recently. I am not sure if that was becuase I may have left one of the aftermarket connections uncapped by accident (I fixed that) or because something in my car is draining current (which may explain why my power locks do not work).

My car currently draws 100mA or 0.1A when parked. Is this too much? I've disconnected the battery for the time being.

My next step is to pull the carpet below the drivers seat and see what's up.

limenuke 03-07-2012 07:19 PM

[Resolved]

Symptoms: None of your interior power locks work. Your door's keyholes do not activate power lock system. Your fuses are fine. Your remote keyless entry system still works and all of your doors respond to it.

Probable Solution: Credits to this guy http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...882&highlight= and NomadE30 for helping me out.

The problem happens in older E36s with rust along the bottom, allowing water to get under the carpets. It causes 7 Red/Green wires inside a black plastic connector to rot out completely, leaving no electrical connection. To gain access to this plug, you'll need to pull up the carpet under the seats until you expose a hard white plastic coverish thing located underneath the carpet, just in front of the drivers seat.

At this point, I assume you are kneeling by the driver door opening, facing into the car. The white coverish thing will be towards the front of the car (your left) and the black plastic connector will be just right of the white cover thing, and towards you. The black plastic connector joins 7 Red/Green wires together and is attached to the chassis via a plastic, nutless bolt.

If you think that the wires are fine, give them a tug. You may be surprised to see that all 7 of the wires might fall out. My black connector was flooded with green copper oxide. I stripped all the wires down an inch, twisted them together, put a plug on them and then sealed the deal with tons of hockey tape and electrical tape.

Fixed my locks! :D


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