maXbimmer Forums

maXbimmer Forums (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/index.php)
-   E36 (1991 - 1999) (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=59)
-   -   Throw out bearing change (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146245)

Too_Tall 10-06-2011 12:03 PM

Throw out bearing change
 
is there a website i could look at on how to replace my throw out bearing on my 318?
any help would be awesome!
thanks

bimmerpwr 10-06-2011 12:06 PM

check out www.bimmerdiy.com

InfiniteDice 10-06-2011 01:21 PM

The first consideration to ponder is where are you going to do the work... In a garage with a lift or in your driveway on the ground.

If you can rent a lift at a DIY garage they/you will need to have a trans jack to put under it. Regardless you'll probably need to remove the exhaust and drive shaft and various shields to get it out. This will be the quickest.

I have in the past done clutch swaps on the ground with the car raised but I wouldn't suggest that. You're much better off disconnecting everything, and lifting out the engine/trans in once piece; replace everything, then lower it back in.

In either case expect every bolt and nut to be seized and require forceful removal, I'd start by ordering all new connective bolts for the exhaust. Perhaps gaskets for where the pipes separate.

Look at that site from the post above, I'm not a specialist on the 318i but it's basically all the same jazz.

Too_Tall 10-06-2011 01:34 PM

FML that much work eh!! yeah i was planning on just doing it on the ground but i guess that's out of the question. sounds easier to do it with a lift

nate_s89 10-06-2011 01:45 PM

It will be much easier to do it with a lift as said. But it is not impossible to do it on the ground. Just make sure you have 4 good stands and a good jack. I have done more then one transmission swap in my driveway. And a manual transmission is not very heavy empty, and the bolts are much easier to get at then the auto. A LONG extension is your best friend here.

jeffrie 10-06-2011 05:58 PM

Joy of a 318 is you do not have to remove the exhaust to yank out the tranny.
I used 2 Jack stands that raised the car about 3 feet off the ground in the front only.
The wright up previously posted for the 6 cylds is a good one so follow it and you should have no problem.

Things of note,

theirs a pin by the starter that likes to oxidize which may make you think you missed a bolt as it's jammed on their so tight, Just spray lots of penetrating oil and it's eventualy break free with the help of a perswader or better yet a air hammer.

Take note of how the cluch goes back in, theirs a nub one one side that is supposed to be facing the rear of the car, as the cluch will fit even if you put this in backwards but will bind on the trannys input shaft making it extreamly hard to seperate from the engine again plus it will not work right once you have it all together again.

If your linkage is sloppy be a good time to change all the bushings as their cheap and easy to reach with the tranny out.

Center Support Bearing may need a puller to remove off the drive shaft if you want to change that too while it's out.

Be a good time to change out the Guibo as well.

sb_600 10-07-2011 09:18 AM

Another consideration is while you have the tranny out, take the flywheel off and replace the rear main seal. It's a ~$40 part that could cause a huge pain in the a$$ if it starts leaking after you put everything back together

Too_Tall 10-07-2011 12:17 PM

Thanks guys really appreciate it. Gonna be attempting this on the weekend! will get parts listed also, don't need more problems down the road, as it seems its all i have been having with this car haha fcplm

sb_600 10-07-2011 02:28 PM

if you do take the flywheel off, you "should" replace the bolts and make sure to use red locktite when you put them back in


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:19 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.