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-   -   Balljoint stuck in suspension assembly...help! (http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144894)

The Twin 08-10-2011 09:21 AM

Balljoint stuck in suspension assembly...help!
 
Murphy's law right?

everything was going perfectly smooth with my suspension work, untill I get to my LAST corner.

firstly, I end up stripping my rotor mounting screw (no biggie, drilled it out, not replacing it...useless anyway).

secondly I can't get my lower balljoint to seperate from the suspension assembly bolt (dont really know the proper name) everything else slipped out nicely, this one seems to be seized.

I've tried prying with a breakbar, hammering etc etc etc.

does anyone have any suggestions to free this up without damaging the BJ?

pic for reference
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4198/balljoint.jpg

El Gato Liso 08-10-2011 09:33 AM

ok i had this problem the other day

get some heat on that bitch, then pickle fork, and hammer it out. i thought mine would NEVER come out. it did. heat heat heat!!!! but you will probably roast the rubber boot...

The Twin 08-10-2011 09:39 AM

I'll pick up a pickle fork tonight and have at it.

I'd rather stay away from heat as I JUST replaced the BJ's not even 6 months ago (needed for safety) I know it's still good.

just wanted to know whether this was infact a common issue, or if I was doing something wrong thx!

InfiniteDice 08-10-2011 10:17 AM

Put a jack under the strut assembly body, compress it slightly. Put some downward force on the control arm via a pry bar, and tap with a hammer around the strut assembly area where the ball joint passes through. This will remove it without damaging it.

Bullet Ride 08-10-2011 10:31 AM

It sucks that they had to use an uncommon coarse thread on the balljoint, makes it harder to find replacement nuts. I wanted to remove a control arm without damaging the boot because it was a relatively new control arm so I just backed the nut out so the top of the nut was past the top of the ball joint stud then used a piece of steel bar and a hammer to punch it out. I got it out, but the nut was damaged then I went looking for a new one only to find out they can be hard to come by unless you buy a box of 100 lol. If you can find a replacement nut (M12x1.5) this is a good way to do it because a pickle fork will damage your boot more often than not. Putting a jack under the strut and compressing it slightly like Dice said is also important so your upper mount isn't taking all of the hammering force.

The Twin 08-10-2011 11:13 AM

Good idea...ill try the jack trick 1st before pickling it thanks!

El Gato Liso 08-10-2011 11:16 AM

the ball joint should have a 6/7mm hole to fit an allen key...try spinning it around to break loosen it too

The Twin 08-10-2011 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Gato Liso (Post 1517254)
the ball joint should have a 6/7mm hole to fit an allen key...try spinning it around to break loosen it too


really??

under the boot?
I couldn't find anything otherwise..

El Gato Liso 08-10-2011 11:25 AM

on top, so you can hold it while you spin the nut on

Bullet Ride 08-10-2011 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Gato Liso (Post 1517254)
the ball joint should have a 6/7mm hole to fit an allen key...try spinning it around to break loosen it too

I haven't seen it yet on any of the control arms I've had. I've seen it on a sway bar link though, sometimes they have flats for a spanner, sometimes they have the allen hole.

Ceeker 08-10-2011 02:00 PM

I've seen a bmw tech does this many times; once the nut spins, the ball joint usually does the same and the nut can't come off. Jack under the ball joint to compress the tampered shaft to the control arm. Then back off the nut. Drop the jack to see if the joint slides out. If not, take a hammer and hammer on the control arm just outside of the ball joint. it will free up and drop out. Then if it is still in pry bar it down to remove the strut from the control arm. Works like a charm. No damage to the joint, shaft, boot, thread or nut.

The Twin 08-10-2011 03:12 PM

How solid is the control arm itself if I'm just wailing on it with a hammer? I got a better target connection....

Red_Rocket 08-10-2011 04:29 PM

What I do is get a long bar that fits through one of the control arm holes and pry down on the control arm while whaling on where the bj goes through the strut. Keep the nut on a bit so you dont hit the threads and damage them. Don't use heat or a pickle fork if you want to save the bj. And sometimes I have to whale on them for a while to get them loose.

The Twin 08-10-2011 10:20 PM

Still stuck on the FFS. Won't budge.
Anyone in orleans/cumberland area want a shot at it?

I'm limited with post surgery issues and can't slam on it like I want to...haven't tried heat yet, but trying to save my bushings.

Ceeker 08-10-2011 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Twin (Post 1517402)
Still stuck on the FFS. Won't budge.
Anyone in orleans/cumberland area want a shot at it?

I'm limited with post surgery issues and can't slam on it like I want to...haven't tried heat yet, but trying to save my bushings.

Let the control arm hang. A good med sized sledge 2.5lb-5lb or ball pin hammer should do the trick. The control arm won't break. it will give, has too. heat will destroy the boot for sure.

hit the control arm on the edge just next to where the boot is. You gotta hammer on it. You may dent the control arm a bit but will hold up.

Also the position of the strut is important; make sure you have the ball joint positioned in the center so there is no binding on it.

wait, I just caught you pick. you gotta jack the strut up so there is room for the control arm to drop down. in the position the pic is showing, nothing is gonna happen.
There inner ball joint and bushing is holding this in place.


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