some advice for upcoming job
 

hello

i have to do three things (diff, subframe bushings, springs) and i'd like to get them all done in one sitting (which i realize could be quite long), so im trying to figure out the best order in which to do them, what do you guys think of this:

swap the diff to the new one
use the 2 inch subframe drop method to change out the bushings (torch+puller/slide hammer, pipe ends?)
while the subframe is low change out the rear springs
lastly move to the front and swap the springs there.

does it makes sense or is there better way?

i have no lift so it has to happen on a jack and stands...

thanks in advance

Why not completely take it all out? Do what Bullet Ride has done with his rear end thread. Drop everything, do the subframe, then put the new diff in, then change the springs. Seems logical that way to myself since the subframe is above the diff and since I'm doing my brake lines, I would suggest running a new rear line since you'll be taking those out and make a easier job then myself with the rear brakes.

I just dropped my entire rear (subframe, dif, springs) at once last year when I did the rear end overhaul.

Just used jackstands and a jack.

Note: it takes 2 people to line it up easily if you're installing the whole thing as a unit.

Yeah like Steve said, check out my suspension overhaul thread.
And 100% replace the brake hard lines when you have the subframe out because with it in, it's pretty much impossible to change the two upper lines right by the gas tank... at least it seemed that way to me. I should have replaced mine.... 2 weeks after I put it all back together one of my lines craked where there was some rot and started leaking. I spent the weekend ghetto rigging my own hard line set-up since I didn't want to drop the subframe again...

I'd recommend replacing the subframe bushings with some AKG poly bushings. That way you'll never have to replace them again... and they are easy to install since they are a split design

You think your hard brake lines are ghetto? I got my father to rip the T-Bar brass fitting that connects the 3 lines with a crowbar LOL. Probably the most pain in the ass job to do is the brake lines in the rear.. And you should see what I've already done to my car :eek:

I had to chisel my T-Fitting off as well because the mounting nut was rusted and stripeed when I went to take it off. I should take pics of what I came up with lol. Since I was buying pre-flared lines with fittings, there's a couple spots where I had to kill a few inches of line by making random bends. However my setup is now totally easier to service than the stock set-up *wiggle*

Same here. My right rear line is perfect but my left side was cut a little long so I had to make some bends in it to fit into the flex line that is over the CV Axle. Now I got to buy more flex lines so I can mount the T-Fitting somewhere I can actually get at it and then run it down the driver side into the engine.

Question : Where does the rear line go to in the engine compartment? Does it go to the abs or into the master?

Sorry for Hijacking the tread.*uzi*

Alex, how are your trailing arm bushings? Those require subframe removal.

If your parking brake cables are stiff, having the subframe out makes it MUCH easier to replace the housings that are likely seized into the body and the hubs.

It goes into the proportioning valve located below the master cylinder tucked in just above the frame rail.... you can only really get at it from the underside of the car and even then it's pretty tight...depending on the side of your hands.

I need flex hose with the fittings on each end, one for the T-Fitting and one end for the other flex hose that's on the trailing arm. Can you buy them at Canadian Tire? or would I have to order some from a BMW dealer?

just plumb it like stock.... hard line from the junction to the flex hose on trailing arms

I would but they had the bend over the cross member so the hard line wouldn't kink. I'm going to chisel the bracket from the trailing arms closest to the tanks so then I can just plump them without having to make a bend and then the line won't kink. Just hard to get at since it's in the middle of the cross member =\. I called Ajax BMW and they want 72$ each for Inner Flex lines :eek: :mad:

you can get a whole kit of aftermarket braided stainless lines for that... they don't last forever, but the pedal is awesomely stiff

They only make em like this for a simple reason. bringing it back to the shop for maintenance. For guys like us, or girls, who can do normal things properly, it's one huge pain in the ass =\ I'm no where closer then I was yesterday at getting the lines finished lol. (But I leveled out the ground out back for the pool). Tomorrow, I'm hoping I can get them chiseled out of the brackets without braking the flex lines. But I'm not looking forward to this.... "proportioning valve located below the master cylinder tucked in just above the frame rail" It's in one STUPID spot =\ Not to mention my car is lowered and it's hard to get a jack under it >_<

^ Steve I replied in your build thread so this thread can get back on topic with Berlin's project discussion.